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  1. #76
    Shu Shu retarded flu oogy-boogy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Princess View Post
    [img]http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_07591.jpg[/img[
    Wow, how can you live somewhere that just chews your car up with rust. California might have so very strict laws about modding cars, but at least we don't get rusty.
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  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by talonXracer View Post
    You can see the bolt actually starts to turn, but the bushing and rubber also turn, that indicates the bushing is siezed to the bolt, unfortunatly..... 5-10 minutes or less with a torch and I can have them out.
    I hate the ideal of using torch on suspension parts, you can change the temper of the sorrounding steel.....

    My fix for the rear lower shock bolt is to drill a bunch of holes in the bushing that are the size of a PB Blaster tube into the bushing sleeve( both from under the car and from the wheel well) and then blow in the Blaster....3 hours later, it came right out....The bushing is not heat treated, so a new drill bit eats it like butter......I even drilled through the shock loop to get to the center of bushing....
    Last edited by mustclime; 06-12-2008 at 11:34 AM.

  3. #78
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    I will give that a try Scott, someone had mentioned that, but untill you said how big the holes are it didnt make sense, now it does.
    ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
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  4. #79
    Registered User dichotomous's Avatar
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    heh heh, a few bigger holes than that and it might just lose grip with the bolt anways.... heh heh. we'll be sure to have a sawzall and torch on hand to cut through things the fast way, but I'll give the holes and blaster idea a try, heck if I swiss cheese it enough from all sides and oil it it at least cant hurt things. We are also cleaning out the garage tonight so we can drill and soak them and wait for a little while and do some cleaning and eating, then get back to shocks. this might work

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by talonXracer View Post
    I will give that a try Scott, someone had mentioned that, but untill you said how big the holes are it didnt make sense, now it does.
    read through this....

    http://forums.clubep3.net/showthread.php?t=572704

  6. #81
    OG Triple OG PAPITUYO326's Avatar
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    How are you liking the J's RCAs?

    I can't seem to find any replacement ball joints for my ITR setup other than the oems for 80 a pop. At that price, might as well jump for the J's units. Any comments on how they feel/have held up?
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  7. #82
    Registered User 20CiviC02Si's Avatar
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    Talon i'll be following in your footsteps in these next coming months. So if i have any ?'s i'll hit you up. The current setup i am looking into getting is:

    - DC5R LCAs
    - DC5R Front Sway
    - Mugen Bushings from King (Having them press in the bushings so i can still use the EP3 suspension)
    - J's RCA's
    - J's SPL Steering Arms
    - If need be DSS ITR OEM Replacement Axles

    I am piecing together this setup already. Picking up the control arms for $100 and the bushings are $170. I just have to drive over to King and talk to my buddy Mike L. about the bushings. The rest i am going to be working on saving up for.

  8. #83
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAPITUYO326 View Post
    How are you liking the J's RCAs?

    I can't seem to find any replacement ball joints for my ITR setup other than the oems for 80 a pop. At that price, might as well jump for the J's units. Any comments on how they feel/have held up?
    I had them installed with the MugenSS and OEM LCA's and they did affect how she felt in the turns. Even more so with the ITR control arms and Progress coil overs.

    As it sits right now there is just the slightest amount more of body roll in the turns, but far more traction and the rear doesnt want to tuck in, it just tracks along fine, starts to lift the inside rear a little.
    Last edited by talonXracer; 07-01-2008 at 09:56 AM.
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  9. #84
    Registered User 20CiviC02Si's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by talonXracer View Post
    I had them installed with the MugenSS and OEM LCA's and they did affect how she felt in the turns. Even more so with the ITR control arms and Progress coil overs. As it sits right now there is just the slightest amount more of body roll in the turns, but far more traction and the rear doesnt want to tuck in, it just tracks along fine, starts to lift the inside rear a little.
    Wouldn't the body roll be caused by the thinner front sway more so than the J's RCAs?

    I have been tossing the idea around of not installing the ITR OEM Front Sway and opting for a stiffer Swift or Hotchkis setup. I understand that this would produce more understeer, however with it paired to a 27mm adjustable rear sway i think it would be pretty neutral.

  10. #85
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    That is exactly where the increased body roll came from. I would much rather have just a simdgeon of body roll rather than loose traction. I surely wouldnt go with a stiffer swaybar setup.
    ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
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  11. #86
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    It really depends if you prefer understeer or oversteer. Getting a bigger rear sway bar or a smaller front sway bar will lead you to fighting one or the other.

  12. #87
    0EM xEcuTi0n Ba82Ep3's Avatar
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    Looks guud. I dunno if i would wanna lose the use of my Hotchkis bars to swap out the front end components though. They make the EP handle so well.

    Are the USDM 06 RSX-S LCA's the same as the JDM/Mugen parts? Im ordering my RSX-S front brake parts (caliper sets/rotors) in a few days... was thinking about replacin the hubs to get rid of the 70k miles of abuse they have seen... but dunno which hubs to get that would be useable with the new LCA's.

    If the 06 USDM RSX-S front LCA's are the same as the ITR LCA's, then just buying the whole 06 RSX-S setup should work fine... right?

    (LCA's/FSwayB/hubs/caliper sets/rotors and hardware)

  13. #88
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ba82Ep3 View Post
    Looks guud. I dunno if i would wanna lose the use of my Hotchkis bars to swap out the front end components though. They make the EP handle so well.

    Are the USDM 06 RSX-S LCA's the same as the JDM/Mugen parts? Im ordering my RSX-S front brake parts (caliper sets/rotors) in a few days... was thinking about replacin the hubs to get rid of the 70k miles of abuse they have seen... but dunno which hubs to get that would be useable with the new LCA's.

    If the 06 USDM RSX-S front LCA's are the same as the ITR LCA's, then just buying the whole 06 RSX-S setup should work fine... right?

    (LCA's/FSwayB/hubs/caliper sets/rotors and hardware)

    No, the 06' LCA's are not the same as the ITR LCA's.
    The type of LCA has no impact on which hub to use, the hub fits into the knuckle. I would get new bearings to go with the DC5 hubs(also remember that you will need DC5S axles when going to the larger splined typeS hubs).
    ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
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  14. #89
    0EM xEcuTi0n Ba82Ep3's Avatar
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    Thanks Doug. It was something i heard in passing at a recent meet. Dude is sellin his red 06 RSX-S and that was one of the things he was talking about... the OEM LCA's being the same as the ITR's. Checking out your project here brought that back to memory...

    Ill just get the Mugen LCA's, and hope they handle well with the JDM f/r sways. I have waay too many projects and not enough time/money. LOL

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