hey do you have a jdm 5 lug assembly or is that stock? Last time i saw those control arms on kingmotorsports they stated that you need the jdm 5 lug with the brembo brake setup.
***UPDATE***
Well I finally replaced the lower ball joint boots and got the fronts fully assembled. The toe is way off and I cant get in for an alignment till thursday, so I will take a few trips around the block and get it close enough to drive to the alignment shop safely. I didnt have my torch available to cut the rear MugenSS out, but I did change out all the corroded Hotchkiss endlinks for OEM ones. Notice the liberal use of anti-sieze during reassembly!!!
The front suspension is velvety smooth compared to the MugenSS! I only have driving around a little, the front coilovers are absolutely awesome.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
hey do you have a jdm 5 lug assembly or is that stock? Last time i saw those control arms on kingmotorsports they stated that you need the jdm 5 lug with the brembo brake setup.
You need the arms to be modified to fit the smaller 02'-05'EP3 and 02'-04'DC5S lower ball joint. Mugen arms come ready to rock and roll with the EP3. You can also use the 05'-06'DC5S knuckle as they have the same lower ball joint as the ITR.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
sorry, im alittle confused when you say modify arm do you mean the control arm? i have an 02 ep, what would i need to do to install the mugen LCA?
i thought stock axels wouldnt work with the mugen lca's?
can it be done without?
and what header are you running if you dont mind me asking?
Last edited by phill; 06-11-2008 at 09:59 AM.
Mugen already does the modifications, all you have to do is order the correct ones.
I know of many individuals running the Mugen arms and stock axles, it is when you have the complete typeR suspension, ie the ITR LCA and ITR knuckle that will require the longer typeR axles.
I am running a Swain coated SSR Tri-Y header.
Last edited by talonXracer; 06-11-2008 at 11:32 AM.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
have you cut off the rear bolts yet? I'm planning on cutting mine off this thursday. my current plan is a cutoff wheel straight down either side on the insides of the mount to cut through the bolts and sleeves and everything, then just figure out how to get the stub out of the threads at the end of cut that nut off and replace with an actual seperate nut. if you have a better idea I'd love to hear it. its very near my gas tank or I wouldnt mind a torch, and may have to go with one, but I would rather not if it can be done with a cutoff wheel
As long as you place a heat blanket over the tank you have nothing to worry about. I used to use a torch and weld steel fuel tanks all the time, as long as they are full, they wont explode,,,,,gas itself does not burn, it has to have air present to be flammable.
I will cut the bolt head and nut off the backside with a torch. I dont think there is enough room to get a cutoff wheel in there and fully cut thru without starting to hit the arm or mount.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
hey thanx man for that info, it sounds like something i may eventually do. When or if you have already got your alignment, let us know how those Progress Coilovers are. Couple Questions on those coilovers, 1. I've read somewhere that they have lower steering arms to correct our V issue is that true? 2. I also heard that the Progress Coilovers are non-adjustable dampers, if so whats your take on that?
Doug, have you tried musty's idea with tapping the bushing and adding lube? When my rears seized it ended up being the bushing and not the bolt.
Mel
You can see the bolt actually starts to turn, but the bushing and rubber also turn, that indicates the bushing is siezed to the bolt, unfortunatly..... 5-10 minutes or less with a torch and I can have them out.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
I torched the living crap out of mine. I ended up having to cut off the tack welded nut. I had to use a crowbar and a whole load of tools to get them out. What a royal PIA...
Mel
[img]http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_07591.jpg[/img[
Wow, how can you live somewhere that just chews your car up with rust. California might have so very strict laws about modding cars, but at least we don't get rusty.
Anyways, good luck with your project, looks like you know what you're doing.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks