Reply With Quotetry changing the tranny fluid
I've always had third gear grinding issue but it feels like the situation has gotten worse now.
Shifting to ANY gear over 4000rpm gives me a moment of resistance, then it goes through. Suppose I shift from second to third, it gets stopped, then it continues right after. This "stop" is much more clear in down shifts.
Down shifting anywhere above 2000rpm just doesn't work anymore. There is an obvious force preventing me to down shift, followed by squeeling noise (if forced harder), then nasty grinds if really forced.
In neutral with the clutch pressed and shifting into first (at a stop), sometimes I hear a metal rubbing sound and sometimes I don't.
I know this is enough information to add up to an obvious, long and expensive answer.Anyone know?
By the way, it's a 6-speed transmission with LSD so I don't think Honda will work on it (or would they).
try changing the tranny fluid
i agree start off somewhere.Originally Posted by jaeguyoon
When people ask me if my car is turbo, I can finally say yes muthafuxa it is.
I don't mean to give a lazy reply, but should I bother changing the tranny fluid if it was changed about 6 months ago?
some people change it every other oil change. i change mine about every six months.
When people ask me if my car is turbo, I can finally say yes muthafuxa it is.
it never hurts to try. I mean, what do ya got to lose. Its just MTF. In any case, what kind of MTF are you using?
I use the Honda one of course! I'll give that a try tomorrow. I hope that's all it is. I'm dreading having to remove the tranny, open it up, finding the gears messed up and having to buy a new one
Last edited by RoyVegasPinoy; 05-26-2008 at 07:22 PM.
word, I'm running with Amsoil Syncromesh right now. Fixed my 2nd gear light grind. Hope the MTF change helps ya!
Use Amsoil Synchromesh synthetic, it fixed a lot of my transmission problems.
YES, it took a turn for the worse!
I didn't even bother changing the transmission fluid. I was driving today, having the same shifting issue, shifting up and down, and neutral, and then BAM, it shifted no more......
I was in the highway, stuck in Neutral, losing speed, trying to coast to my exit. Then it came to a stop right at the transition of the exit to the main street. I blocked the exit and pissed everyone off.
I sat there and tried all methods to shift but nothing. When I shut off the car, it allows me to shift to any gear, but the car won't start in gear, which means the clutch is not engaging. So I put it back in neutral and restart. Revved a few times, wiggled the shifter a few times, and I finally got it to shift into third. Good enough.
Rolled out on third and made my way home.
Speculated Problem
I have the ACT Heavy Duty Super Street Clutch, which has the springs. A spring might have broken off and is circling around, preventing the clutch to engage.
Even though I have to buy a new clutch and shell out more $$$ than a simple transmission fluid change, I still hope it's only the clutch that's bad...
Damnit.
Last edited by RoyVegasPinoy; 05-28-2008 at 05:34 PM.
The ACT clutchs are notorious for causing all kinds of issues with shifting and blown hydraulics. http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44904
Try adjusting your clutch pedal throw for a little more(lengthen the clutch pedal pushrod)
The next suspect is the synchros.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
Is this the DIY on what you're talking about?
This is an oldie but a goodie.
This has helped some people solve grinding issues on K-Series transmissions, as well as squeeky clutch pedal issues. While this was written for the EP3, it should be the same for any K-Series car, as well as just about any car that uses a hydraulic clutch.
Also, this is pretty much a MUST if you install an aftermarket clutch+pressureplate, in order to get proper engagement/disengagement. That being said, on to the DIY:
Tools needed:
- 12mm wrench
- Small pair of vice grips
- A shop towel, rag, or some good grippy rubber gloves, to get a better grip on the pushrod when turning it
- A drop light/flashlight (unless you have super-uber-night-vision )
1) Slide your driver's seat all the way back, you'll need as much room as possible.
2) Remove the fuse panel cover.
3) Remove the lower panel above the pedals. There is a lock on it similar to the one on the fuse panel cover. Once it is undone, simply pull down to remove the panel.
4) Refer to image #1 below. Remove the plastic clip for the kickpanel (circled in red) by unscrewing it. This will provide you with a bit more room to work.
For steps 5 through 10, refer to image #2 below. Ignore the red goop everywhere, this is Mobil 1 Synthetic grease from a previous attempt at trying to stop the squeeking (and as we all know, it never works).
5) Take note of the angle that the pushrod enters the clutch master cylinder (CMC) on your car. It is most likely a downward angle. This means that there is slack between the pushrod and the piston in the CMC.
6) Begin by loosening the locknut with the 12mm wrench. You only need to break it loose by one or two threads.
7) Thread the pushrod out of the pushrod mounting bracket, by turning it clockwise. This will push it further into the CMC. This is where the rag/shop towel, or the grippy rubber gloves come in handy. The pushrod is a rather smooth surface and is hard to get a grip on, especially if there's grease all over it (god damn synthetic grease that never wears out ). As you're turning the pushrod, it will come to a point where it begins to get pretty hard to turn. At that point, you'll want to stop, and try pushing the clutch pedal down with your hand. There should be a tiny bit of free play, and then it should begin to get stiff. If there's no free play, then you've turned the pushrod into the CMC too much, and have put a preload on the piston in the CMC. If this is the case, back the pushrod out a bit until you get freeplay.
8) Once you have the pushrod adjusted and have made sure there is no preload on the CMC piston, take a look at the angle of the pushrod to the CMC. It should be pretty much 90 degrees. Much better then before, as there's now no slack.
9) Take your vicegrips, and clamp them on to the pushrod right where it enters the CMC.
10) Tighten the locknut using the 12mm wrench, while holding onto the vicegrips so that the pushrod does not back out of the CMC. Make sure the locknut is good and tight.
11) Thread the plastic clip from image #1 back onto it's stud. If it's becomming too much of a pain in the ass sitting there threading it on, you can usually just push it on.
12) Replace the lower cover, followed by the fuse panel cover.
13) Go for a test drive and enjoy your (hopefully) much better feeling clutch
Correct, that is for adjusting the clutch pedal.
I do know of several car's that had ACT clutchs installed and they would NEVER fully disengage, even after the clutch adjustment. They required the washer fix that i linked you to.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
Ok, well I don't think that is the issue but it's worth a try. Cause it has worked perfectly with the current adjustments until now.
The clutch disc probably has worn to the point so gradually that the issue has now reared it's ugly head. At your WHP level that is VERY possible. Your post said the issue went from bad to worse, that makes it really look like a wear issue caused by not enough throw to fully disengage, so the disc, pressure plate and fly were slipping increasing the amount of wear.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
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