Reply With Quoteshould i grease the pulleys? if so what kind of grease should i use?
well at first it was too loose, causing the belt to come off slightly, then it was ok but belt still came off. now its really tight, the tensioner assembly bolt is sticking out a little less then an inch from the assembly if that helpsOriginally Posted by oogy-boogy
should i grease the pulleys? if so what kind of grease should i use?
Belt wouldn't come off if it was ok.
Again, feel for tension from the tensioner back to the crank. Do not check between the tensioner and SC pulley.
No need to. The tensioner has a sealed bearing.
Mel
well i believe both the tensioner pulley and supercharger pulley are making noise. there is nothing i could put on both of them to stop the noise?
Tensioner is a sealed bearing. You'd have to buy another (JR sells them).
If the SC bearing is going you're in for a load of trouble if it isn't addressed ASAP (been there). Your only option is sending it to JR.
Mel
i just got off the phone with mike (thisisagame24) and he was saying that the bearing for the supercharger pulley is located inside the supercharger and not on the pulley itself. is this true? and is this why its a big problem?
the only thing i dont understand, is if thats true, why is it that when i spray silicone spray in between the pulley and charger does the noise go away?
Correct, which is why I stated to have it addressed ASAP. You need to remove it and send it to JR in order to have it fixed (they source it to Magnussen IIRC).
To sum it up:
- The charger has a bearing at the base of the shaft that holds the pulley on.
- The tensioner also has a bearing in it.
There are short term band aid fixes for everything. If it's the charger, remove it and get it fixed. If that bearing seizes you're fuxxed.
Mel
damn this is going to be a huge hassle, especially since my parents still don't know about the supercharger
Its not that hard.
-Take off JRSC with buddy again. Don't forget to disable the powercard.
-Buy another stock belt.
-Put PRB manifold, stock belt, and TB back on.
-Send JRSC to JR to fix.
Easy as that. Only 4 steps. If you can't do the work yourself, then get a friend to help you again. You can do it, man. Just take your time on a day off.
Become a Sponsored Member. Only $20 for an entire year!!
Need a service manual for your K-series?
Ep3 Service Manual DC5 Service Manual CL7 Service Manual
Sorry to hear that man, but maybe back to stock for a while. Wonder why it would do this all of the sudden since the only thing you did is change pulley and belt?
Not a hassle. It's just another responsibility that comes with modifying cars. More power = more variables, more problems and more maintenance.
It pays to be proactive.
Added tension (if it was too tight) can snap the shaft or cause issues with the bearings. Also, if he used a mallet to remove the pulley it may have caused damage to the bearings.
Mel
ok.....here is my guess from reading through this....
1) i think you may have the washers reversed on the tensioner pulley..that or you have the wrong washers all togather(used kit ftl). This would cause you belt problems.....and cause a great deal of noise from the pulley....
alright guys just got back from the shop. car is fine.
here was the problem. the 4" pulley that i installed was chewed up on the inside and didn't sit right against that slit that it sits on. this caused the vibration and that awful sound. street pulley and belt is back on but the 310cc injectors are still on. is it ok to run with the 310cc on this setup until i get a brand new 4" pulley or should i change back to stock asap?
so i just got off the phone with moss motorsports, the 4" pulley runs $107 and the idler pulley runs $35. i will be ordering it tomorrow and the ghetto kit will be back on when they come in.
on a side note, i know here on ephatch, it says for the race kit to use a 070622, which is the belt i have in my trunk. on supercharger.com it says to use a 070625. which one is recommended and why
Just a heads up, you can get the pulley from pulley boys for $85-$90, save a few bucks. The slight belt size difference is simply because a dayco belt used by JR is a 62.5". The nearest size manufactured from gatorback, which is usually the upgrade belt of choice, is a 62.2", thus the slight difference. There isnt really anything meaningful behind it, the slight difference in length will be accounted for in the tensioner, just will have less or more threads showing on the tensioner bolt when properly tightened.
Last edited by kaisertj; 06-10-2008 at 03:33 PM.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks