Close

Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    Registered User hondacur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Dayton
    Posts
    28

    master cylinder/slave cylinder clutch who knows.....

    calling all transmission gurus and gods:

    I will make this as short as I can but there is a lot to say so on with it:

    A couple of weeks ago I was driving my car and as I got off of the interstate it started really shifting hard and I couldn't hardly get it into gear at all. I wasn't too far from home I got it there and decided to try changing the trans fluid since it had about 20,000 miles on it and going ahead and bleeding the clutch, so I did those two things and the car felt good again.

    Last Friday night I was on my way home and sitting at a light my car just started shaking almost like letting off the clutch and not pushing in the gas, but I was holding the clutch in. So I started to take off and the car sputtered and died completely again I had the clutch in. Went to start it in gear no luck, put it in neutral and it started went to put it in gear no good. It would not go into any gear, finally I got it to start with it in first and just letting off the break but keeping the clutch pushed in the car started moving forward almost as if I was accelerating, I tried to shift no good so after screwing around for a couple more minuted I gave up and had it towed. This time I did notice a "burning clutch" smell.

    So yesterday I decided that I would replace the master and slave cylinder did that, bled the system and it was good to go, shifting smoother than ever before. then tonight, had the car in my driveway went to pull in and the damn thing would not go into gear again....

    So to finally get to my question does any body know what else I could try?

    Some info about my car:
    103,000 miles
    JDM 6 speed lsd transmission +/-40,000 miles
    tried both syncromesh and honda fluid
    exedy stage1 organic clutch with about 40,000 miles
    JDM type R flywheel

    I have searched and searched which is how I figured out what I have tried above so any help or thoughts would be great. Thanks, sorry for the long story.
    Last edited by hondacur; 06-04-2008 at 08:08 PM.

  2. #2
    Reborn !@#$%'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Plano, TX
    Posts
    3,063
    If worse comes to worse, your mainshaft might be bent from a misplaced hard shift sometime ago.

  3. #3
    OG Triple OG PAPITUYO326's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    M.I.A.M.I.
    Posts
    1,429
    Have you tried adjust the clutch pedal? This can help cure some disengagement issues.
    Your most reliable source for K24 swap help and warrantied/papered K24 longblocks. Serving the K-community since 2004.

    The Evolution:
    2003 Ep3 - K24A1/K20Z3 Hybrid - currently under the knife
    2001 S2000 - Stock and loving it
    1987 Buick T-Type WE4 - The BEAST

  4. #4
    K24A4 is in. Mad02Si's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Kenosha, Wis.
    Posts
    527
    Alright my friend please read this carefully. I just had these EXACT same symptoms 3 weeks ago. All the info I read pinpointed either the clutch master cylinder or the clutch slave cylinder. These are the first things you should check for leaking fluid. If you bled the lines and it felt good after doing that then you might just have a slow leak in one of those cylinders. If you cannot detect any leaks the next thing that will probaly be wrong is the clutch disk itself. I read that you have an Exedy stg 1 clutch. I had an Exedy OEM clutch and it had about 25k on it. When I changed out my slave cylinder and my clutch issue still persisted I decided to remove the clutch itself. I discovered a broken piece of metal that holds in one of the 4 springs. This caused one of the springs to become dislodged and therefore would not allow the clutch to disengage properly. I put in a Stg 1 clutch I had laying around and everything works like it should now.

    Long story short check for leaks at the clutch master cylinder (which is at the clutch pedal and firewall of your car), check the slave cylinder (the cylinder on the trans that pushes on the clutch throwout bearing fork). If you see no visible leaks than you should look into the clutch disk having thrown a spring. I hope this helps you.

  5. #5
    K24A4 is in. Mad02Si's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Kenosha, Wis.
    Posts
    527
    Quote Originally Posted by PAPITUYO326 View Post
    Have you tried adjust the clutch pedal? This can help cure some disengagement issues.
    I tried this also but if it's like mine it wont matter. I was able to shift into a gear with the engine off. But when I pushed on the clutch to start the car the clutch was still grabing because the pressure was not evenly distrubuted across the face of the clutch disk due to the broken spring. My head is telling me that with what he discribed that he has the same problem I had, and if so a new clutch disk is needed.

  6. #6
    Registered User hondacur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Dayton
    Posts
    28
    So even with the clutch going out or broken spring etc. is it possible that it would shift alright occasionaly and sometimes not? I am just trying to figure out why bleeding it helped out for a little bit but then it got hard to shift again. If I can keep from replacing the clutch I would like to eliminate all other possibilties. I forgot to mention that I had also tried adjusting the clutch pedal with no luck. But if that is the only other possibility I guess I have no choice. Whatever it takes to get the EP back on the road

  7. #7
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Catskill Mtns
    Posts
    9,252
    Sounds like the disc has worn to the point where the clutch pedal needs to be adjusted for more throw, OR, there is an issue with the hydraulics. Alot of guys have had excellent success with the EX CMC.

    ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
    Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !

    "Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"

  8. #8
    360+barpsin=death! davisj3537's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    DFW
    Posts
    654
    ^ Yeah that. I used the ex cmc and it worked awesome.

  9. #9
    Registered User hondacur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Dayton
    Posts
    28
    that is interesting, I wish I would have started this thread before I replaced with an ep clutch master. I am going to order an EX clutch master today and give it a try. I assume everything bolts up no problem?

  10. #10
    K24A4 is in. Mad02Si's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Kenosha, Wis.
    Posts
    527
    Quote Originally Posted by hondacur View Post
    So even with the clutch going out or broken spring etc. is it possible that it would shift alright occasionaly and sometimes not? I am just trying to figure out why bleeding it helped out for a little bit but then it got hard to shift again. If I can keep from replacing the clutch I would like to eliminate all other possibilties. I forgot to mention that I had also tried adjusting the clutch pedal with no luck. But if that is the only other possibility I guess I have no choice. Whatever it takes to get the EP back on the road
    I can only speculate but it just seems like you have the same issues I was just having. If you replaced both cylinders and it keeps happening I would check the clutch disk and make sure it's not worn or damaged.

  11. #11
    OG Triple OG PAPITUYO326's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    M.I.A.M.I.
    Posts
    1,429
    If your probs continue then def consider switching the CMC and see if that helps. I switched my CMC to the coupe version when I swapped my current clutch in.
    Your most reliable source for K24 swap help and warrantied/papered K24 longblocks. Serving the K-community since 2004.

    The Evolution:
    2003 Ep3 - K24A1/K20Z3 Hybrid - currently under the knife
    2001 S2000 - Stock and loving it
    1987 Buick T-Type WE4 - The BEAST

  12. #12
    Registered User hondacur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Dayton
    Posts
    28

    fixed

    I finally had a chance to work on my car Friday night and I am happy to report the problem is solved!! A piece of metal that helps hold in one of the springs broke off and got wedged into the pressure plate. So after a new clutch and flywheel the EP is back up and running like a champ again. Thanks for everyones help!

  13. #13
    ephatch member EP3_U_SEE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    CHINO HILLZ
    Posts
    218
    had something like this happen to me...... but i broke a bolt of the slave cylinder at a gas station turning on my car....

  14. #14
    ephatch member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Woodstock Georgia
    Posts
    89
    bump - going to try fixing my car with a new slave & master cylinder - what year civic ex CMC works with our si's?

  15. #15
    Registered User VIZHUNZ02SI's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Tampa Palms, FL
    Posts
    742
    Quote Originally Posted by hondacur View Post
    I finally had a chance to work on my car Friday night and I am happy to report the problem is solved!! A piece of metal that helps hold in one of the springs broke off and got wedged into the pressure plate. So after a new clutch and flywheel the EP is back up and running like a champ again. Thanks for everyones help!
    i had that problem when i had an ACT clutch.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •