Thinking about building the bottom end...

[shadowmd]

well since the head is built (gonna change up the cams soon) but i would now like to look at the bottom end. I don't wanna go crazy here....compression no higher than 12:1. I was lookin at just gettin type-r pistons and gettin new rods. I was just gonna get new type-s or type-r rods (are the same???) or would gettin eagle rods benefit me any with just type-r pistons??? could anyone make some recommendations? Not too familiar with where to look for other pistons....i was lookin at wiseco as well....there about $615 for pistons at 86.00mm (bore) / 3.386".....i guess a lil help would be nice lol

it be nice to make about 235whp or so. Im gonna be upgrading the cams to a stage II cam so of course the 235whp would be after the cams. I think im just gonna start with some brian crower stage II's then a lil later after i recoup some funds, get some IPS or Blue Print......

thanks!


PLAN!!!!!!!!!!!! also found on post 21

well met up with chunky today. looks like i have a plan! lol

he has a spare a2 block layin around and im gonna buy. he is gona take a measuremeant of the cylinders and we will figure out what pistons i need. im gonna find a crank, order eagle H beam rods and then order the pistons (once we know what i need). so i will pretty much have a built short block. crank, pistons and rods assembled. then over xmas break, we will pull my car in my dads shop, pull the motor and tranny. remove my oil pump, oil pan and all accessories. the head, some new stage II cams ( ), etc. then assemble them on the spare block then re-install that in my car .....oo and i will also be installing an lsd and a type-r final drive along with a lightend flywheel......gonna be a 9000rpm beast!...prob. gonna run around 12:1 compression....again, we will know onc measurements are taken

[davisj3537]

Honestly Sam if you are pulling the block and gonna have to take it to a machine shop to hone anyway why not just bore it out to like 86.5 or 87mm? Then drop in some coated 12:1 pistons or something. When dropping so much money putting in the pistons and tearing it all apart why not just upgrade to some nice forged rods too...If you do get forged rods/pistons then you might want to consider taking out the oil jets. Oh BTW the Brian Crower cams are a great choice!

[Ba82Ep3]

Id say just clean up the cylinder walls and try to avoid an overbore (depends on cylinder wall condition/spec). 12CR isnt a lot persay, but the larger the bore, the thinner the cylinder walls. It isnt likely, but if for some reason you get that wild hair to add a SC or put together another turbo kit... you run a greater risk of blowin out the top of the cylinderwall (this is the primary reason for sleeving a block).

I know there was discussion about certain kinds of forged pistons that are fine for DD use... and some just are not. If i remember correctly what i read, its the type of material they are made from. So if that is the case (i hope someone else will chime in and add to this... Doug/Lucid/etc) your forged piston choice is even smaller and probably pricier in number.

If the above is true... i would just stick with the OEM type R pistons (you know theyre good for DD use) and find better rods and get good bearings, bolts,etc. Balance the crank, polish it up and have fun putting it all back together.

Cams?? Damn the temptation...

Personally, i want to turn my old a3 into a 2.2 with a stroker kit (maybe a modded ap2 crank?). Its the perfect addition of TQ that gives you just a little more... but not so much you cant step on the gas w/o wheelspin like the 2.4.

[davisj3537]

Whatever you end up doing just remember the old saying "Do it right the first time". Get exactly what you want despite price cuz you never want to say I wish I would have just spent the extra money and got this or that.

[shadowmd]

exactly lol.....im def. gonna do it right the first time. im gonna do a lot of research to get exactly what i want. i am gonna stay na. so i want something that will be fun, but more important...RELIABLE.........thats why i am leaning more towards type-r internals.....but i have some learning to do. so any more opinions would be great! and......thanks to u two already

[kon]

If you plan on building the block, why not start with the K24 block. Just pick up a K24 case with crank and get that bad boy built. Once its done, swap out bottom ends.

[shadowmd]

Yea i was also thinkin about that....that would be NICE! but i love to rev lol..........something about 9k just makes me drool lol.....i kno everyone says that with a k24, u don't need to rev high to make power, but thats the thing....i love to rev out my car hahaha..............i think im leanin more towards the type-r pistons and rods....i need it to be reliable first, then i can think about performance...

[davisj3537]

If you plan on building the block, why not start with the K24 block. Just pick up a K24 case with crank and get that bad boy built. Once its done, swap out bottom ends.

Yeah that or now that I know you are wanting reliability at the top of the list then have you thought about just swapping in a k24a2 shortblock? You like revving high though don't you?

[mustclime]

read the header and was expecting porn........

[shadowmd]

You like revving high though don't you?

OOOOO yes! LOL im a ricer hahahahaha

[kon]

I like to rev high too...LOL. Something about watching that needle going to 9K excites me

[Gilmour]

A micro-polished K20a2 crank, OEM bearings, with Maxi lite rods (Brian Crower), and a set of OEM type-r pistons (coated) would be a sick bottom end in a K20.

You could always pick up a K20a3 block and use that as a base, then recoup on your resale of an OEM A2 block. (If it’s still in good health)

[v1c10us]

if the k24 was larger bore as opposed to stroke I would say throw some big ass darton sleeves in there to bring it down to 2.2liters and still rev to 9k
but the problem is the stroke so i guess that wouldn't work.

[davisj3537]

if the k24 was larger bore as opposed to stroke I would say throw some big ass darton sleeves in there to bring it down to 2.2liters and still rev to 9k
but the problem is the stroke so i guess that wouldn't work.

You could put those sleeves in a k20 and stroke it out to a 2.2 safely and still rev high...but I think that is alot more money and work than Sam is looking for.

[classiccelica]

HUH HUH yeah rev rev rev HUh yeah. I love the needle in my buddies 06 kpro'd type-s with some other goodies as well rev to 8600rpm. The sound and the excitement of omg is it ever going to stop revving.