Reply With Quotefronts and rears would be 6.5" but you would have to find a component set up for the tweeters
can someone point me in the direction of the Alpine Type R speakers that fit our speakers? I'm looking to replace my entire stock speaker system with Type R components, can I get some links?
Also, does anyone know if there is a nice bolt in sub setup out there for our hatches?
pics would be tight :o
fronts and rears would be 6.5" but you would have to find a component set up for the tweeters
^ its a bitch to get 6.5 type r's to fit in the front i would go with 5 1/4 although im going to be trying some different spacers here soon to see how it works out.
are you planning on getting an amp to power your components? If so...You can run components fine. If not I would not get type r components or even type r 2 ways. The power comming from any headunit is not enough to power any of the type r series. Your speakers might sound okay when you first install them but eventually they go. Underpowering speakers is just as bad as overpowering speakers.
When setting up your system you should focus on the power you are going to put out. Most headunits put out 17watts rms x4. Type r 2ways are 100 watts rms. So you wouldnt even be giving it 1/5 of the power it should have. Even the type S models should have way more power. So.... if you were to say nay on the amp I would recommend the type s over the type r. There Alpine SPS-600 is 80 watts rms and the Alpine SPS-17C2 is 50 watts rms. You will be closer to meeting the power needs of the type s speakers and will get a cleaner sound.
Last edited by rwest44; 07-17-2008 at 09:12 AM.
He is correct. You could even possibly hurt your HU... Trying to pull the power for those speakers.Originally Posted by rwest44
I don't think the amp will be hurt, but the reason that underpowering the speakers may damage the speakers is that in the user trying to obtain the desired volume the amp could be driven into clipping, which causes power spikes many times the actual rating of the amplifier and can therefore exceed the speaker's rating.
If the amplifier has adequate power for the speakers then it can be ramped up to what the listener wants without clipping.
I really liked the way my friend's Type R components sounded in his speed3 so I really want to run them. He used his stock HU and an aftermarket EQ.
So say I'm going to upgrade to a Alpine CDA-9886, get the Type R components, and add some sort of nice bass package (anyone seen a stealth series enclosure?), what kind of amps would I need to run?
I'm really new to stereos, and I DO NOT want to get jipped with junk I don't need from the local audio place.
It does not cause "spikes" per say, clipping is what happens when the waveform of the signal cannot be reproduced due to the rail voltage present at the final output transistors being too low for the task, it simply "clips" the waveform off at the top and bottom.
2 things can damage speakers from GROSS clipping......
1. Clipping is the most primitive form of compression, when compression takes place the AVERAGE power of the signal raises, a driver can handle incredible amounts of power short term but cannot handle large amounts of power as the duty cycle foes up (crest factor goes down) The motor of the speaker simply cannot dissipate enough heat away from the coil and failure occurs due to burning and/or adhesive breakdown. I have seen drivers that can handle an easy KW be blown with a signal of 200W sine wave (100% duty cycle) We would "test certain drivers after re-cone by applying 50W to them sine wave overnight, when you come in in the morning you can barely hold on to the rim of the basket from it wicking heat away from the Voice Coil, they would NEVER get this hot with normal operation with music receiving a max short term power of 1200W, remember music has a very low average power, clipping raises this average power and can cause thermal failure.
2. Some things (older stuff like whenj op-amps first became popular) don't behave well when clipping, especially things BEFORE power amplifiers, when clipping there can be "overshoot" this overshoot causes the "spikes" you speak of in your original post, these spikes are harmonics of the original signal and are higher than we can hear, woofers rarely suffer from failure from this because their large Voice Coils act as an inductor (crossover) and will not transform this energy into motion or heat. High frequency devices on the other hand have a very low inductance on the voice coil, and compounded with the fact that they cannot dissipate as much heat and are fragile, can be damaged from gross clipping due to this issue. This often times occurs when gain is improperly set, like a preamp signal being allowed to clip when the amp is not making full output, and amplifier that is properly designed CAN AND WILL reproduce these harmonics and pass them on as if it were legitimate signal, that's when things get ugly.
In both cases, when this occurs it's usually deemed as gross neglect, you WILL hear itBack it off if you hear distortion.
Chad
if you ever put them in let me know how it sounds
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