You need to hone the block. Get tsx pistons rings/pistons/rods/rod bearings/wrist pins...I think that is all.
Which parts would I need to swap out the a1 internals for the a2?
Would I have to bore and hone the a1 block (for seal)?
1) TSX 2) HEAD GASKET 3) TSX
4) VALVE COVER GASKET 5) TSX 6) EXHAUST VALVE
7) TSX 8) VALVE SPRINGS 9) TSX
10) VALVE SPRING RETAINERS 11) TSX 12) ROCKER ARMS
13) SCREW 14) ROCKER SHAFT 15) TSX
16) VALVE ASSY 17) TSX 18) OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
19) TSX 20) INTAKE CAMSHAFT 21) TSX
22) CAMSHAFT GEAR 23) TSX 24) TENSIONER
25) TSX 26) GUIDE 27) TSX
28) CRANKSHAFT GEAR 29) TSX 30) FRONT SHAFT
31) TSX 32) BEARING 33) TSX
34) TENSIONER 35) TSX 36) PISTON RINGS
37) TSX 38) PISTON PIN 39) TSX
40) BEARING 41) TSX 42) Black
43) TSX 44) CRANKSHAFT 45) TSX
46) PULLEY 47) TSX 48) OIL PUMP
You need to hone the block. Get tsx pistons rings/pistons/rods/rod bearings/wrist pins...I think that is all.
Go used! Usually you can find a set of used rods and pistons for 200..just remember this will bump your compression up.
i have a set of rods and pistons if your interested pm me an offer
Eh sry I think I'm gonna leave the internals alone.
Don't think it'll be worth the $ if I have to hone the block.
Honing the block aint that big of a deal. Its only a big project if the cylinder walls are really scored up, or if the engine had a mechanical failure, but the block is salvageable.
If your cylinder walls have low miles and nothing other than normal wear and tear, then honing them is just to freshen them up so they seal properly with the new ringset on your pistons. You can even do it DIY... just buy the tool and be sure to use the proper stone grit (400 if i remember right) and crosshatch pattern (45 degrees again if i remember right) mentioned in the manual.
Think of it as taking your low mileage brake rotors to a shop to have them turned, just because you are installing new pads. You dont really NEED to turn the rotors. You arent turning them because they are warped or because your brake pads wore down to the metal and scored the rotor up pretty bad. Youre just turning them so your NEW brake pads will seat evenly on a fresh rotor surface.
The difference here is piston rings help seal oil out of the combustion chamber. So a hone is more important in this instance, even if the engine has no damage/low wear, than the brake analogy above. Hopefully it can give you perspective on it though.
I was just thinkin it would be expensive if I had to hone the block. How much power would I gain from the bump up in compression?
Could I put these in an a4 and run the a4 head?
The a4 head is the biggest piece of shit head out of all the kseries. You are wasting your time putting in new internals if you are putting that shitty head back on. Get a k24a1 head if you don't wanna get the a2.
My initial plan was to drop in an a1 longblock and swap the head sometime in the future.
I was then considering putting the tsx rods/pistons in an a4 and swapping that head in the future. I won't be going this route since the a4 head is no good.
How much power would the extra 0.9 compression ratio produce? Trying to figure out if it's worth cracking open the block. I'd rather do internals now then have to take the engine out of the car later.
you can not use the a4 head without a4 pistons any other combo will work ai head/tsx pistons is cheap and highly effective
Well the More power your making the more the .9/1 compression will help you. Helps with low end.
My best advice is to make a plan. A plan you can live with money wise and power wise. sit down and write out all the things you can do now and later. Find out what you like best and do it. Don't just wing it because you will burn bridges that you might want to cross later on.
Like with me with almost 12/1 compression, boost is out of the question.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
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