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  1. #1411
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    New Wheel/Tire Size thread

    How do you guys run all these big wheels and tires without rubbing? Looking at some of these pictures the wheel and tire are flush with the fender with minimal camber as far as I can tell. How do you do that?

    I just put on BC Racing coilovers and I am far from slammed. Lowered MAYBE an inch all around. I added 16x7 +40 Rota Slipstreams with 225/50 tires an my driver side rear is rubbing like hell.

  2. #1412
    Registered User black05ep's Avatar
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    Your tire is too tall for the width.and theyre are mostly running stiff springs amd rolling the fenders. Im lowered 2 inches on standard spring rates with 225-45-17 tires with 2.5* of camber in back and 1.5* up front.i only rub o. Hard bumps and my fenders are not rolled.

  3. #1413
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    New Wheel/Tire Size thread

    Well I am running BC Racing coilovers. I have not put them to full stiff, but I may try that in the morning. I would have thought the coilovers would have been plenty stiff.

    I am going to try to find a better shop to do an alignment for me tomorrow. The shop today couldn't zero out the toe without setting the camber very low. I asked for -1.5 front and -1.0 rear.

    Also, I wanted to keep some sidewall height and did lots of research, reading and asking. The concensus was that the 225/50 would work. Not trying to argue because I am sure you know more than I, just trying to provide more detail.

  4. #1414
    Registered User Hasbro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by larryo108 View Post
    Well I am running BC Racing coilovers. I have not put them to full stiff, but I may try that in the morning. I would have thought the coilovers would have been plenty stiff.

    I am going to try to find a better shop to do an alignment for me tomorrow. The shop today couldn't zero out the toe without setting the camber very low. I asked for -1.5 front and -1.0 rear.

    Also, I wanted to keep some sidewall height and did lots of research, reading and asking. The concensus was that the 225/50 would work. Not trying to argue because I am sure you know more than I, just trying to provide more detail.
    Hmmm, they should fit ok. Something is amiss.

  5. #1415
    Registered User black05ep's Avatar
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    You probly need to roll your fenders. My toe is zero witb 1.5- up front camber

  6. #1416
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    The previous owner looks like he rolled the fenders, but they could certainly use additional rolling.

    My actual camber numbers is LF = 0.0*, RF = -0.6*, LR = -0.6*, RR = -1.1*. My toe numbers are LF = .05*, RF = .08*, LR = .1*, RR = .06*.

    I think a little more camber could help me a ton, as it is the right rear that is mostly rubbing. I just don't know how you guys get zero toe with all of the negative camber. The shop today seemed to make it think, you couldn't have both. When you all say you have zero toe are you refering to the total toe? Or is each wheel actally 0*?

    Finally, sorry to hijack the thread, but I appreciate the help so far.

  7. #1417
    Registered User black05ep's Avatar
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    New tie rod ends or inverted tierods help. My friend has 215.50.16s with wheel spacers ans almost no- camber abojt a pinky gap. Im sure shes going to rub even on full stiff. The car is just getting work done right now. You will probably need a 45 tire or add some more camber to the rear.

  8. #1418
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    Quote Originally Posted by black05ep View Post
    New tie rod ends or inverted tierods help. My friend has 215.50.16s with wheel spacers ans almost no- camber abojt a pinky gap. Im sure shes going to rub even on full stiff. The car is just getting work done right now. You will probably need a 45 tire or add some more camber to the rear.
    The tie rod ends where in good shape on Sunday night when we installed the BC's. I have the Club RSX steering bracket relocator because I don't trust the inverted tie rods. Thanks for the input. Much appreciated.

  9. #1419
    Registered User black05ep's Avatar
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    Then you should be good. You might have to thread your tie rods back inner and outer to have enough theads to 0 it out

  10. #1420
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    What do you mean to thread my inner and outer tierods?

  11. #1421
    Registered User black05ep's Avatar
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    If your already almost out of threads. You should be able tothread the inner and outter tierods so you can get more adjustment. Hopefully someone else can chime in and confirm this, and maybe explain better. I have new tierods my bracket is not installed and im dropped 2 inches and had no problem getn the toe to zero out.

  12. #1422
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    Oh. I think you mean adding additional threads to the tie rod in order to have more adjustability? I have seen different length aftermarket tie rods that provide this ability. I may have to go with that, but was trying not to spend additional money. In looking last night it appeared that the tie rod ends were tightened down all the way on the tie rods. So I do not have any further adjustment in that regard. I think I am going to put my fat 5's with 195/60 tires back on the car for my big upcoming trip and worry about these new wheels and tires when I get back and have the time. Thanks again for all of the input.

  13. #1423
    Registered User black05ep's Avatar
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    There is an inner tie rod to. That can be adjusted. I believe yours was adjusted too far at one point and so it makes it hard to 0 in. If your not as low as me then thats got to be the only solution i can think of. Hopefully someone else will chime in on this.

  14. #1424
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    Yes. More input would be phenomenal. I have the tie rods threaded all the way into the steering bracket, I don't know what else is threaded in there.

  15. #1425
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    Just got some wheels for the Hatch. Rota Grids-V 16x8 20+

    I want to know what size tires I sould be looking at. Aiming for the Hellaflush look. Are 235/40 to big for the Hatch? 225/45??

    Please let me know.

    Going to roll and pull fenders. Camber kit ready to be set. On Tein Basic Coilovers.

    Thanks ya

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