Modding OEM Tensioner for JRSC?

[beechstreet]

Anyone remember what on the OEM tensioner needs to be modified to be used with the JRSC? There was a good thread going on about this but its gone thanks to the 2nd crash. I've been searching clubrsx all morning but all the threads are for a k20a2 setup or some other hybrid motor setup.

From what I can remember, you have to cut a tab off so the tensioner can move further, but which one (see pics attached)? Also something about the tensioner possibly hitting the snout of the charger? I have a couple free days to finally attempt modding the OEM tensioner and installing it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

thanks in advance.

[jimmyjames]

I believe you need to remove the front-most mounting hole/tab on the tensioner as well as remove 1/4 of the back material from the tensioner. You would then fabricate a mounting plate from 1/4" aluminum stock that screws into the stock mounting holes on the engine (screws need to be flush with plate surface) and also has holes for the tensioner to bolt to it. Overall, the tensioner needs to be 1" or so forward of its current position.
MugenReplica has a modified unit he may be nice enough to photograph. One thing to note though is that the setup was designed for an RSX supercharger orientation. Not sure it works with the EP one.

Actually, I think I know what you mean...without the plate. I'll keep looking.

[Twisted-X]

Found a couple of threads where they talk about it, but haven't read the whole threads yet:

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=555282

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread...jrsc+tensioner

[beechstreet]

I believe you need to remove the front-most mounting hole/tab on the tensioner as well as remove 1/4 of the back material from the tensioner. You would then fabricate a mounting plate from 1/4" aluminum stock that screws into the stock mounting holes on the engine (screws need to be flush with plate surface) and also has holes for the tensioner to bolt to it. Overall, the tensioner needs to be 1" or so forward of its current position.
MugenReplica has a modified unit he may be nice enough to photograph. One thing to note though is that the setup was designed for an RSX supercharger orientation. Not sure it works with the EP one.

Actually, I think I know what you mean...without the plate. I'll keep looking.

Yeah didnt need a plate or that much modding. Just had to shave/cut off a restrictor tab. Just not sure if its the part circled in green, or red, or blue in the pic I'm going to attach

[beechstreet]

Found a couple of threads where they talk about it, but haven't read the whole threads yet:

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=555282

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread...jrsc+tensioner

i read through that clubrsx one you posted but couldnt find the exact same thing I was thinking about. thanks though

[Twisted-X]

Comparing the two photos, I would guess you'd have to remove a little bit of the red box as this would allow the tensioner to swing farther. I'm curious about this myself, as somebody before the crash was saying that this works. (And I might be boosted in the next year or so ;-)

[beechstreet]

Comparing the two photos, I would guess you'd have to remove a little bit of the red box as this would allow the tensioner to swing farther. I'm curious about this myself, as somebody before the crash was saying that this works. (And I might be boosted in the next year or so ;-)

I think you're right. If I remember correctly someone said that the hardest part was moving the tensioner arm out of the way to cut away the tab circled in red. I wonder if I need to completely remove that little tab or just shave off a little bit of it... guess I should figure out how to move the arm out of the way first. thanks!

[Twisted-X]

In one of the threads I was reading on K20a one guy said he put the tensioner in a vise while his dad held it open with a breaker bar. Sound kinda iffy to me...
There was another thread where a guy replaced his stock tensioner pulley with one that was 100mmx30mm (this was an rsx with the EPS mod). The only problem with this I could see is that the larger pulley would reduce the amount of leverage the tensioner spring could apply because the belt is farther away from the pivot point. He was also messing with different belt sizes.

[MugenReplica]

I believe you need to remove the front-most mounting hole/tab on the tensioner as well as remove 1/4 of the back material from the tensioner. You would then fabricate a mounting plate from 1/4" aluminum stock that screws into the stock mounting holes on the engine (screws need to be flush with plate surface) and also has holes for the tensioner to bolt to it. Overall, the tensioner needs to be 1" or so forward of its current position.
MugenReplica has a modified unit he may be nice enough to photograph. One thing to note though is that the setup was designed for an RSX supercharger orientation. Not sure it works with the EP one.

Actually, I think I know what you mean...without the plate. I'll keep looking.

Yea, I use a plate because I have the DC5 JRSC. There are at LEAST 3-4 other EP3s on here who have done the modification of the OEM tensioner using the EP3 JRSC, that you are mentioning here. I don't understand why none of them have piped in to help you. I was going to make a few of these plates last year, but after looking at the Ep3 manifold and it's position, I didn't think it would work, so I didn't bother doing them.

Found a couple of threads where they talk about it, but haven't read the whole threads yet:

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=555282

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread...jrsc+tensioner

That's what I am basically running on my DC5 JRSC with EPS. I don't think it will work with the EP3 JRSC since it moves the tensioner so far forward?

I think you're right. If I remember correctly someone said that the hardest part was moving the tensioner arm out of the way to cut away the tab circled in red. I wonder if I need to completely remove that little tab or just shave off a little bit of it... guess I should figure out how to move the arm out of the way first. thanks!

Just cut the tab that you mentioned. I have a spare OEM tensioner that I will donate to you if this doesn't work. It would just be nice for a fellow Ephatcher to finally share the information with everybody else instead of keeping the information to themselves.

[vbpracer]

I am actually installing the EP3 JRSC on the k24a2 this saturday. I had issues with the manuel tensioner before I did the engine swap, therefore I will give this a try and write it up.

[beechstreet]

Just cut the tab that you mentioned. I have a spare OEM tensioner that I will donate to you if this doesn't work. It would just be nice for a fellow Ephatcher to finally share the information with everybody else instead of keeping the information to themselves.

so the entire tab has to be removed? We removed about 3/8 of an inch. We we're a little paranoid about removing the entire thing.

Anyone know what belt I should try with this setup? I have a 62.2" (the one currently on there for the 3.8" SC pulley and 2.5" idler pulley), 61.5", 61.2", as well as the OEM length belt to experiment with. Is it supposed to be a longer belt or shorter?

Thanks in advance

[lldiesel386ll]

not to sure about the approach to belt sizing, but this may help widen the margin of error
http://k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74159
hope that would help someone

[Canuck Civic]

So I need to fab a plate up to mount the OEM tensioner to work with a DC5 S/C or does someone still make one?

[Ba82Ep3]

This info WAS posted along with pix previously, and apparently lost with the crash.

To make the OEM auto tensioner work with an EP spec JRSC 3.8 pulley (and smaller) in either a k20 or k24 setup, all you need to mod is the tab that would hit the neck of the JRSC once mounted. Other than that, it bolts in place just fine... no need for a plate. If you cant find a 7 rib belt that fits, look through the 8+ rib offerings, and just cut off the ribs you dont need to have a belt of proper length.

Depending on your setup, you may need to change the auto tensioner pulley size to get proper tension with the belt length used.

[Twisted-X]

Very good info. Stickified maybe?