DIY: Coilovers

[CHASEEE]

I thought we needed something like this so here it goes. These are Raceland Coilovers, but I'm sure any other brand will be extremely similar. Just FYI: this is my first DIY write-up for the forum.

I tried to take good pictures along the way, but it is easy to forget to grab the camera at times.

1. To begin, loosen the lug nuts. Jack the car up. Place jack stands in the proper places on both sides of the car. Take the wheel off.


2. Before we forget lets loosen the two small bolts that hold a bracket to the strut. This bracket holds a brake hose and a wheel sensor cable. I’ve highlighted the bracket below.
Also, for the added room you can choose to remove the brake caliper at this point.


3. Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end and remove the nut. I forgot the size of the nut here.


4. Next, remove the two large bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle. Once removed comes a tricky part in prying the tie rod end from the strut assembly.
I did this by using a hammer in the motion of the arrow in the picture. Luckily it popped out without harm. If you can’t get it that way then you will have to use “the fork” tool or a separator. I highly recommend replacing the tie rods while you are here, or having a pair on standby just in case you destroy the boot – which usually happens.


5. After you have the tie rods separated from the strut assembly, loosen the three 14mm bolts under the hood.


6. Once you loosen the top hat bolts the assembly may want to jump down. This is where a buddy will come in handy. It is best to have one person sitting down and holding the knuckle from losing the axle! Another person needs to wiggle the strut assembly out of there.
If you don’t have a friend to hold the knuckle in the axle then try and use some rope or twine to tie it up in the wheel well.
Also watch the axle boot! The strut assembly will jump down a tad, and before you know it the axle boot has a rip in it. You WILL be pissed. Happened to me last time at this point.

7. Now admire the old vs the new.


8. Now you will remove the top hat from the old strut assembly. Do this by putting a 6mm allen wrench in the top of the hat with a wrench on the nut. I did not get a picture of this.
My springs did NOT shoot out or do anything crazy. If you want to be extra safe you can rent a spring compressor and use it at this point, but both times I’ve removed the suspension it was not needed.

9. You will reuse the top hat and bearings from the original struts. I went ahead and replaced my bearings with new since I knew the old were shot. For $13 a piece it is definitely worth it while you’ve got it out in front of you.
Below is a picture of the new bearing.


10. Here is how the top of the new assembly goes together.


11. Try and set the ride height BEFORE you put the assembly back on the car. It is much easier to do, and will save a ton of time. Trying to mess with the perches while on the car and under stress becomes a lot of work – even if you want to move it just a few threads down!

12. Put the new assembly in how you took it out. Once again – watch the axle and axle boot!
Here it is put in all nice and pretty.


13. Now do the other side.

14. Next is the rears. Much easier in my opinion. I took the pictures after I had the new installed already.

15. Jack the rear of the car up and place the jack stands in the appropriate places. Remove the wheel.


16. Remove the 17mm flange bolt at the bottom of the assembly from the arm. It’s actually on the backside of the picture below. The nut you see in the picture does not move – it’s stationary.


17. Open the hatch now. Remove the plastic bulkhead covers to reveal the tophat. Use a 14mm wrench to loosen the tophat nut. I left the two tophat flange nuts tightened only because one of them is extremely difficult to get to.


18. Once the single tophat nut is removed you can now remove the strut completely.

19. I did not get a picture of the rear strut fully assembled, but you reuse everything from the original assembly. I have outlined the pieces you should stack on the new strut in red. The ‘damper mounting base’ and ‘rubber bushing’ should still be attached in the rear trunk. Remember, we did not take these out.


20. Now put the new strut assembly in it’s place. I found it easiest to get the large 17mm flange bolt in place first – then use a jack to raise the suspension through the tophat hole. Once it’s high enough through the hole start tightening down that tophat nut.
If it starts spinning use a 8mm wrench to hold it in place along the grooves provided. Here’s a closer picture of what I’m talking about.


21. Make sure everything is tight now.


22. Now do the other side.

23. Make sure all bolts are tight.
Put the wheels back on. Jack it up and remove the jackstands and then put it down.

24. Tighten up all lug nuts and GET IT ALIGNED IMMEDIATELY!

[slate13530]

Nice work!

[[ep3]tom]

when you say set the ride height befor install .... how do you know how many inches ? are there markings ? im only asking because im buy mine nexk week

[CHASEEE]

when you say set the ride height befor install .... how do you know how many inches ? are there markings ? im only asking because im buy mine nexk week

That's a good question. No markings on the Raceland Coilovers - just a lot of threads! I remember my rears are right at 2" from the bottom of the locking perch to the last thread. I don't remember what I set my fronts to, but it was less than 2" I believe.

[MugenReplica]

I'm very impressed by your DIY thread! Very comprehensive, and an awesome amount of pictures detailing every little step. I can't wait to see your next DIY thread!! If your next DIY thread is as good as this, I'm paying for your Sponsored member status. Quote me on that!

[Nate13]

how are those Racelands riding? is the feel stiff or closer to stock feel? what spring rates did you get?

[yanniel05]

cant wait for these!! great write up!!!

[N/a]

good job son!

[yanniel05]

That's a good question. No markings on the Raceland Coilovers - just a lot of threads! I remember my rears are right at 2" from the bottom of the locking perch to the last thread. I don't remember what I set my fronts to, but it was less than 2" I believe.

yeah any one have any recomendations as of what would be a good measurement on adjustng the level on the treads yet? as a more or less this much inches will equal = 1.5" drop? i dunno or i'm just thnking it would be good info? right?

[CHASEEE]

I'm very impressed by your DIY thread! Very comprehensive, and an awesome amount of pictures detailing every little step. I can't wait to see your next DIY thread!! If your next DIY thread is as good as this, I'm paying for your Sponsored member status. Quote me on that!

I'm holding you to that!

how are those Racelands riding? is the feel stiff or closer to stock feel? what spring rates did you get?

They feel very close to stock. A tad stiffer when hitting bumps, but overall a fantastic ride thus far.
Spring rates are: Front 310 / Rear 417.

[2004ep3hatch]

CHASEEE


hey man I pmed you, did you get it? I hope my pm box is working.

[CHASEEE]

CHASEEE


hey man I pmed you, did you get it? I hope my pm box is working.

Yeah, I just PMed you back.

[charles]

great write up, it makes the install seem less daunting for people wondering about suspension installs. You should add something about supporting the axles while doing the front, because if they pop out it's a bitch to put back in.

[dayronvip]

where did u buy those coilovers? cuz i trying to get ones

[yanniel05]

where did u buy those coilovers? cuz i trying to get ones

oye mi hermano! lol you can get them at racelandus.com...