New Interior that has Snowballed out of control!

[talonXracer]

Well the sunroof has been left open a few times, drinks have been spilled, windows left down, a leaking rear wiper hose and bad rear strut "O"rings has caused the carpet and padding to develop an odor and to have allowed some corrosion to form on the floor sheet metal. Not too mention all the salt stains and dirt, time to remove it!!!

I removed the seats and carpet today(disconnect the batt first!). There are a few spots in the corners of the seat pan and the rear of the door posts that have seen alot of dampness. I will use a wire wheel to get the loose rust off and then treat it with Chassis-Saver to stop the corrosion. http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

The plan is to then apply LizardSkin sound control and the heat barrier http://www.lizardskin.com/ , followed by Monsta-Liner http://www.magnetpaints.com/bedliner1.asp on the floor. But first comes the removal of the original sound deadener tar crap.

I havnt ever had to remove the rear seat side plastic, I have to remove it to get at the corrosion down in the corners as well as to apply the LizardSkin sound deadener to the back side of all the interior panels(eliminates squeaks and gives the car a solid sound), Proven aerospace technology enables LizardSkin® Ceramic Insulation to:

* Reduce engine and solar heat transfer by 25-30 degrees or more

* Reduce noise by 10-12 decibels or more

* Protect surfaces from moisture and corrosion

* Withstand temperatures to 500° F. (260° C.).

Update, pics so far


here you can see the corrosion, it is puzzling as it appears to be a powder on top of the factory sound deadener as well as a very thin surface rust on an exposed body seam


In this pic you can see where the water lay and changed the color of the sound deadener and caused the cover over the Ebrake cables to rust!


OK, here is a pic of the offending corner with the sealer and insulation removed, I have spot blasted as much of the corrosion away. I will need to get under the car and inspect that seam on the underside and make sure there isnt a opening in the seam sealer. I may just remove the underside seam sealer in that area and inject the ChassisSaver with a hypo into the seam and re-seal it with 3m seam sealer.

I had even considered removing all the seam sealer on the inside and breaking out the mig and stitch welding the seam.




I removed the triangular supports over the rear shock mount areas and was shocked by how much corrosion there was. It appears to have entered at the rear shock areas, I think the strut "O" rings had leaked on the mugenSS suspension, I have cleaned the areas up slightly to get the debris off and get a close inspection done on the area and it will be easily saved with the blaster and the Chassis-Saver.

view from the rear, you can see the shop light on the areas I am talking about,


drivers side


pass side


I have heard alot of horror stories about Dynamat, well I discovered the horrors in reality!!!!!!!!!!
A single wrinkle allowed the water from the leaking strut "O"ring to enter under the Dynamat and sit and corrode the living shit out of the sheet metal. Again luckily this area is not a load bearing or stress area, so it is another fairly easy fix, but I really didnt want to see or have to repair this kind of crap!!!!!!!!!



OK, I removed most of the Xtreme Dynamat from the bottom of the spare tire well, this stuff is a real bear to remove! Only one spot that is aout the size of a quarter that rotted thru. All the rot will be removed by blasting and I will use some epoxy and tri-weave cloth(mixture of E-glas, Cf, and Kevlar) to repair/replace/reinforce the damaged areas. The new circular plugs are 2.67$ each.


I have the old Xtreme Dynamat almost completely removed. What remains is some very sticky gooey black snot. A quick splash with S8 reducer and some minor elbow rubbing it comes off.



UPDATE
OK, got a little more done. I stopped at Tractor supply and picked up a new sandblaster, now I just need some blast media, aka sand. The Black Diamond media I have is far too heavy, close to 30-40 grit, the blaster uses 80grit and finer.

I also snagged 30 lbs of dry ice and went to town. What a mess! LOL significantly easier than heat. Still leaves residue and isnt wait 5 minutes and it pops itself off,,,LOL more like wait 10 minutes or so and start chipping with a chisel/scraper and a hammer for about 15-20 minutes per section(4 sections).



Monday I will pick up a bag or two of #1 sand and blast everything and get it sealed with a coat of chassis saver. I have a novel approach in tools to apply the Chassis-Saver with(so stay tuned for pic's!)

I also ordered up 4 gallons of the LizardSkin sound control yesterday from Summit(they shipped it yesterday as well) and it should be here by Wednesday.

UPDATE

Yeah ALOT of work !

BUT SHE IS RUST FREE !!!!!!!

Here is the rear tub all de-rusted and the majority of the asphalt crap removed

And here it is with a coat of ChassisSaver applied finally


I still need to remove the rear strut nuts, jack up the rear and allow the struts to drop down so that I can blast that area.

The LizardSkin arrived today, it will probably start going on this weekend.

A little more done today. The temps have been dropping all day long, I put the coat on the center section around 2pm, and due to the high humidity it was dry in around an hour vrs 3 hours yesterday(it is moisture cure), it needs at least one more coat but it iwent below 50 degrees around 4pm. I hope tomorrow is a tad warmer !




Anyways, I got the third coat on at noon. I also got the entire rear wheel wells, that includes the seams between the inner and outer metal panels and down in the corners for the outer panels. A true rust proofing!
pass side hatch area

pass side rear seat area

drivers side hatch area

And 1 two gallon tub of LizardSkin and the spraygun.


UPDATE
I got the front portion of the cab done with one coat of ChassiSaver, I will have the second coat done tonight and get a third on in the morning. Then tomorrow night I will remove the headliner completly and start scuffing up the rest of the interior panels, then start masking it off for the LizardSkin on Sunday.





Totally encapsulated!


OK guy's, can anyone else tell me what they have stamped into their chassis in this spot. It is directly under the shifter on the exhaust tunnel, I didnt fill in the stamping so it was easily readable.


I forgot to post up this pic, the best tool for applying the ChassiSaver. You start with this tool as you can get the tip up under the edges of sheet metal seams, down in cracks etc and squirt a fair amount in, then allow it to seep thru and run out, then break out the brush and continue with coating that area.



Ok I collected all the internal stuff that seen corrosion, the cabin cross bar, cross bar brackets, and Ebrake stuff.

Here is the Ebrake assembly, notice the RUST ! ! ! Why do automakers use non-painted steel in cars?


And here it is all blasted clean!


Here is everything coated,


Update.....

Well the temps and humidity have dropped enough to spray the LizardSkin. Besides I have been up at the mtn lake cabin for a couple weeks during the day due to the heat.

first coat on the cab floor


first coat in the back


here it is with the two coats of the Sound Control, tomorrow I will spray the LizardSkin Thermal Control, notice the newly sprayed SoundControl is a light blue gray, and drys to a flat medium grey color.


I also sprayed the backside of the left and right rear plastic. I got the full amount of SoundControl on them and I tried rapping on the plastic and was rather dissapointed with the typical plastic sound. BUT I went out after the SC had dried a couple of hours and tried rapping on the plastic and it made a thud sound instead of the typical plastic thwack sound, I also tried rapping the cab floor and it also had the nice dull thud sound.


....this thread continued two posts down....

[Passenger]

Keep us updated w/ pics! I removed al ot of the sound tar stuff in the back (when I was a ricey hs kid) and Ive regretted it since .LMK how that sound stuff works I'd love to have a completely noise-free (except exhaust tone) cabin.

[skoolnu]

use dry ice to pull the original sound deadener. will take all of 5 mins.

[talonXracer]

page II

Here are the backside of the rear panels


The first coat of the Thermal barrier, it is a very lightweight ceramic filled goop.



Well the interior of the car is completely sprayed now. The sides and roof got 3 coats of SoundControl, and the floor got 2 coats of SoundControl and two coats of the Ceramic Thermal coating. I will put some poly-fill in the void between the inner panel and rear quarter panel. Already the SC has greatly reduced the tone when slapping the quarter panel behind the rear door, it is no longer a bongo drum !


Started running the electrical back where it goes, still have to clean the ground points, then coat them with battery terminal.



UPDATE
Well the headliner is done. I am very satisfied with the fabric spray from Dupli-color. I tried to find somewheres out of the sun to take a pic, but the sun shines thru the foliage in spots, but you can see that there are no spray patterns. Do make sure you get the flat colors and not the gloss, or it will look extremely rice.



1 can=crap

2 cans=still crap

3 cans= starting to look ok

4 cans=this might actually work

5 cans=Wow, nice job!

I cleaned and dyed the sunroof sliding cover. I then took one of the "B" pillars that I had already hit with the sandblaster and tried the DupliColor stuff on it as well it took nicely and had a very even appearance. Even though it is the flat black dye it does have a slight satin finish to it on the plastic, just perfect, the gloss would be sickly rice looking.



UPDATE
Well there is finally a warm enough day, with the following 24hrs above 55 degrees. I had scuffed up the Lizardskin and wiped down with mek several weeks ago, did another blow out and wipe down.

I mixed up the Monstaliner and started applying it into the corners in a dabbing motion and then rolled out the flat areas. First coat done, second coat in 5 hours.







I had a rippin buzz after the first coat....forgot the carbon prefilter on my mask...

The second coat gives the distinctive bed liner texture, and it will be 100% UV proof. It will have a satin finish when cured. When the sun directly hits the liner material it DOES NOT get hot.

[skoolnu]

i got about 25lbs of it, and it was more than enough... i got it from a place that sells dry ice. it was like 90 cents a pound. made life so easy. when i say 5 mins to get rid of all that crap, i anit kidding.

[johnkimble]

crazy, I'm really interested in seeing that lizard skin applied.

as for dry ice, I had to get some for a bio project once -- they had it at my grocery store.

[talonXracer]

I took the opportunity last night to dissassemble the center dash and remove the head unit and all the heater controls and lower 3 push buttons. Then I went and degreased the console and painted the exposed silver areas and double sided tape from the Honda CF overlay with a satin black Duracoat. This simply mod/task really increased the appearance of the CF overlay 1000%

I also took the opportunity to finish installing the Cig lighter wiring and remove the wiring for the XM radio, seeing I no longer waste money on a subscription.

I discovered that the only places close to me that carry dry ice are welding supply houses, that should be easy enough to get during the week.

[Cheep3]

I took the opportunity last night to dissassemble the center dash and remove the head unit and all the heater controls and lower 3 push buttons. Then I went and degreased the console and painted the exposed silver areas and double sided tape from the Honda CF overlay with a satin black Duracoat. This simply mod/task really increased the appearance of the CF overlay 1000%.

So did you reinstall the overlay? I've looked at the silver outline of mine a few times and thought - Sharpie? Probably a good thing I didn't have a black sharpie laying around at the time... Post a pic when you're able. I really do like the overall darker look of the CF overlay, but the "tacked over" look of it bugs me.

[talonXracer]

No, I didnt have to remove the overlay at all. The great thing about it is the very fact of the lifted mounting of the tape, the small brush I used slid along between the overlay and the base panel, worked great, eliminated that ugly silver outline completely!!!!!


......

I got the rear side panels off and the corrosion doesnt appear to be as bad as I first thought, most of the rust on the floor appears to be very light surface rust and rust dust deposits that have come from the stock unpainted cabin tie bar, which is great, very easy fixs! I should pull the headliner as well and disable the sunroof half-way stop, clean and lube the roof slider assembly and soundproof the roof as well. I better order another 2 gallons of the LizardSkin, this way I can do the roof and BEHIND the internal sheet metal panels, Once again a simple job has snowballed! LOL

[Kerby]

enough with the gibber jabber.... More pics!!!
I'm a very visual person.... I learn and order my food by pictures!

[talonXracer]

OK, here is a pic of the offending corner with the sealer and insulation removed, I have spot blasted as much of the corrosion away. I will need to get under the car and inspect that seam on the underside and make sure there isnt a opening in the seam sealer. I may just remove the underside seam sealer in that area and inject the ChassisSaver with a hypo into the seam and re-seal it with 3m seam sealer.

I had even considered removing all the seam sealer on the inside and breaking out the mig and stitch welding the seam.

[talonXracer]

I got a chance to get under the car and take a quick looksee, it appears the backside is very well sealed, but I will try some dye to see if it seeps thru.

[HondaFreak]

Ha ha you poor man. I feel your pain. I spent damn near 2 weeks removing every f'n inch of that crap. When these cars were built the fool on the glue was told to have fun. Btw, have you tried a heat gun? I found it easier to remove the sound deadening, then hit it with acetone. A wire wheel on a drill works great on the seam glue, it's just messy. Man that's a nightmare you got going.

Christian

[dirtyMETHOD]

nice, cant wait to see the lizard skin. good luck

[talonXracer]

Ha ha you poor man. I feel your pain. I spent damn near 2 weeks removing every f'n inch of that crap. When these cars were built the fool on the glue was told to have fun. Btw, have you tried a heat gun? I found it easier to remove the sound deadening, then hit it with acetone. A wire wheel on a drill works great on the seam glue, it's just messy. Man that's a nightmare you got going.

Christian

It really isnt too bad, I just keep up with the shop vac, the messy part is the black diamond blast media!

I use several width carbon steel scrapers and a plastic deadblow hammer, time consuming to get the crap away from the corroded area, but an essential job.

To get the majority off, I will use dry ice I think. I may just leave the rest of the stock asphalt/tar stuff in, and just apply the LizardSkin over it. I am not going for weight reduction, just increase sound and thermal efficiencies, repair the corrosion, and give the car a solid feel sound.

I started to take the deadfoot rest and remove the insulation against the lower firewall to apply ChassisSaver and LizardSkin as I found a little rust there as well.

THE interior sheet metal panels on the pass side rear are VERY dusty/dirty and it appears the little flap on the water seal of the air vent appears to have been stuck open, which explains the constant water seen in the trunk, LOL, but luckily I had sealed that area with ChassisSaver a few years ago before applying the Dynamat in the spare tire well.