Reply With QuoteCleaning the chassis and then scuffing and wiping down with prepsol will take the longest I think, next will be sanding, cleaning and taping off of the interior plastic panels.
It's going to be a brand new car after all this work. Props to you Doug. I did this crap to the last 96 EK hatch I had. It sucked
Cleaning the chassis and then scuffing and wiping down with prepsol will take the longest I think, next will be sanding, cleaning and taping off of the interior plastic panels.
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Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
Found about a dozen or so small spots of corrosion and blasted them, mostly up around the rear upper strut mount area.
Last edited by kuma912; 10-09-2008 at 09:10 AM.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
I removed the triangular supports over the rear shock mount areas and was shocked by how much corrosion there was. It appears to have entered at the rear shock areas, I have no idea how but it has, I have cleaned the areas up slightly to get the debris off and get a close inspection done on the area and it will be easily saved with the blaster and the Chassis-Saver.
view from the rear, you can see the shop light on the areas I am talking about,
drivers side
pass side
Last edited by talonXracer; 05-26-2010 at 09:13 AM.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
looks like you caught it just in time before it did any major damage.
could have been worse.
Wow.. that's one hell of an undertaking. Nice work, looking forward to seeing updates and the final product. Good luck!
I have heard alot of horror stories about Dynamat, well I discovered the horrors in reality!!!!!!!!!!
A single wrinkle allowed the water from the leaking strut "O"ring to enter under the Dynamat and sit and corrode the living shit out of the sheet metal. Again luckily this area is not a load bearing or stress area, so it is another fairly easy fix, but I really didnt want to see or have to repair this kind of crap!!!!!!!!!
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
OK, I removed most of the Xtreme Dynamat from the bottom of the spare tire well, this stuff is a real bear to remove! Only one spot that is aout the size of a quarter that rotted thru. All the rot will be removed by blasting and I will use some epoxy and tri-weave cloth(mixture of E-glas, Cf, and Kevlar) to repair/replace/reinforce the damaged areas. The new circular plugs are 2.67$ each.
Last edited by talonXracer; 05-27-2010 at 09:06 AM.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
I have the old Xtreme Dynamat almost completely removed. What remains is some very sticky gooey black snot. A quick splash with S8 reducer and some minor elbow rubbing it comes off.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
wow. what a PITA! looking really good man. Keep it up.
EEEEEKKKKK looks like a lot of work
Originally Posted by Kerby
Oh my you guys, you just do not understand the personal hell this has become! LOL
Extreme Dynamat has made it's way up near the top of the list as the most worthless, destructive BS made for a DD!!!!!!!
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
OK, got a little more done. I stopped at Tractor supply and picked up a new sandblaster, now I just need some blast media, aka sand. The Black Diamond media I have is far too heavy, close to 30-40 grit, the blaster uses 80grit and finer.
I also snagged 30 lbs of dry ice and went to town. What a mess! LOL significantly easier than heat. Still leaves residue and isnt wait 5 minutes and it pops itself off,,,LOL more like wait 10 minutes or so and start chipping with a chisel/scraper and a hammer for about 15-20 minutes per section(4 sections).
Monday I will pick up a bag or two of #1 sand and blast everything and get it sealed with a coat of chassis saver. I have a novel approach in tools to apply the Chassis-Saver with(so stay tuned for pic's!)
I also ordered up 4 gallons of the LizardSkin sound control yesterday from Summit(they shipped it yesterday as well) and it should be here by Wednesday.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
yup, I know what it's about, I did every inch of my car. That crap is even under the dash on the dash try.
Isn't the media blaster going to remove the paint? I'm guessing it prolly doesn't matter though.OK, got a little more done. I stopped at Tractor supply and picked up a new sandblaster, now I just need some blast media, aka sand. The Black Diamond media I have is far too heavy, close to 30-40 grit, the blaster uses 80grit and finer.
I also snagged 30 lbs of dry ice and went to town. What a mess! LOL significantly easier than heat. Still leaves residue and isnt wait 5 minutes and it pops itself off,,,LOL more like wait 10 minutes or so and start chipping with a chisel/scraper and a hammer for about 15-20 minutes per section(4 sections).
Monday I will pick up a bag or two of #1 sand and blast everything and get it sealed with a coat of chassis saver. I have a novel approach in tools to apply the Chassis-Saver with(so stay tuned for pic's!)
Christian
I am only going to blast the corrosion. no need in going overboard.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
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