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  1. #1
    ephatch member Chupacabray's Avatar
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    Noob to Kpro base map needed!

    All I have is a sri, rh, e, i'm going to put on a cai soon so I just wanted to know if anybody had a base map for either sri/rh/e or cai/rh/e. Or both...for the future rainy season

    I dont see that option on my calibrations list...all i see are a bunch of boosted calibrations and "US civic dyno tuned. High Octane", "US civic dyno tuned Low Octane", and "Us civic factory calibration"

    SO.....if anybody can shed some light on this...that would be awesome or if anyone can send me a base map that would be even better!

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Site Sponsor MadLorEP3's Avatar
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    Im in the same boat...I would like to know what other options there are as well....haven't had time to tinker with kpro
    I just have rh/i/e
    i just chose the hich octane dyno tuned si
    Quote Originally Posted by nmysiismyn View Post
    Ecclesiastes 1:9
    "What has been will be again,
    what has been done will be done again;
    there is nothing new under the sun."

    -King Solomon



  3. #3
    ephatch member Chupacabray's Avatar
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    Well I just tinkered around with KManager, if you go to File/Open/ then wherever your Kpro calibrations are at there are actually a lot of options, I saw what I'm assuming would be our kal which was "k20a3 base tuned 89 octane (or 91)" and then "k20a3 tuned" etc......so....I'm assuming "base" just means CAI/RH/E.

  4. #4
    Registered User babine's Avatar
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    I was wondering what they meant by High and Low Octane.. Because I had it on High while on 91Oct and then I wasn't sure if High mean't 93 or higher... so I just put it back on low and still run 91 ( highest we have here in Québec). Can any one clear things up a bit for me?

  5. #5
    ephatch member Chupacabray's Avatar
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    Nvm "k20a3 base tuned...." is for the RSX. So....Idk.

  6. #6
    432hp 360tq @14lbs Civic5lug's Avatar
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    The k20a3 High Octane kal should be decent. You might have to mess with the fuel a lil but its a solid start

  7. #7
    slow & quiet again 4angrybadgers's Avatar
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    The "high octane" kals are tuned for 91, and I think they're tuned for a CAI and exhaust like the reflash (not 100% sure though). Use the k20a3-civic kal and not the k20a3-base kal - "base" = base RSX. It's highly recommended that you do some street tuning to make sure your fuel and timing are within safe ranges.

  8. #8
    ephatch member RHCP0801's Avatar
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    for the two weeks or so before i got tuned i ran the k20a3 high octane base map...i had race header, cai and catback and the car started up and drove perfect. I didnt push the car at all but that base map is what your looking for

  9. #9
    ephatch member Chupacabray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4angrybadgers View Post
    The "high octane" kals are tuned for 91, and I think they're tuned for a CAI and exhaust like the reflash (not 100% sure though). Use the k20a3-civic kal and not the k20a3-base kal - "base" = base RSX. It's highly recommended that you do some street tuning to make sure your fuel and timing are within safe ranges.
    What would be some reasonable and safe ranges for timing and fuel? I've been test driving with it hooked to kmanager and is that when the numbers turn red? Also I came up with a few knocks during the test run. Good or bad?

  10. #10
    slow & quiet again 4angrybadgers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupacabray View Post
    What would be some reasonable and safe ranges for timing and fuel? I've been test driving with it hooked to kmanager and is that when the numbers turn red? Also I came up with a few knocks during the test run. Good or bad?
    To be blunt, it sounds like you know next to nothing about tuning. No worries though, we all have to start somewhere. Start by watching Hondata's training videos and reading some of the "help me with my tune" type threads here.

    Numbers turning red in KManager's Display window isn't a reliable indicator of a "safe" range for anything - you can change when each sensor display turns red. Your air/fuel ratio (AFR) should stay within a certain safe range, which depends on mods, engine load, and RPMs. Timing varies on a lot of factors.

    Ideally you should be able to tune an engine for zero knock. In practice, you may occasionally see a knock, and sometimes the ECU thinks it hears a knock when there is none (aka "phantom knock"). Distinguishing real knock from phantom knock takes some practice and intuition at reading the knock sensor's threshold and values.

    In a nutshell, you need to get your fuel right first, then advance your timing until it's just shy of knocking. While I can type that all in one sentence, actually doing it can take many test runs and a few hours of work in KManager.

  11. #11
    ephatch member Chupacabray's Avatar
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    To be blunt 4angrybadgers I dont "know next to nothing about tuning." I DONT KNOW SHIT...haha I'm new to this, I was just going to finish at the cai/rh/e level but after hanging with fellow ephatchers I became motivated. I've been doing some soul searching through the threads and for the most part I've been slowly figuring out kpro. Like everything else its trial and error and thats exactly what I expected...I was just hoping to get some sort of idea on where to start and sort of a push in the right direction.

  12. #12
    ephatch member
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    for a push in the right direction.... e-mail elitetuning@aol.com , tell him Mark says hello.

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