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  1. #16
    Mean Old Bastard Lucid Moments's Avatar
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    It can certainly be done and look better than the GRM car ended up, but that at least gets the basic idea across. The hardest part would be attaching the ducts to the bumper cover without resorting to rivets like they did. I guess some sort of epoxy. Or maybe instead of cutting up the bumper cover like that you could use some smaller ducts and put them in about where stock fog lights would go.

  2. #17
    Registered User chiwhitesi's Avatar
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    i have prepped my fog light shrouds to accept 2.5in poly hose for my brake ducts. ill then modify the splash shields to hook up to the other end and then that should be sufficient.

  3. #18
    Registered User Jukka's Avatar
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    ^^ Pics???

  4. #19
    Registered User chiwhitesi's Avatar
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    Shortly, i have to pick up some poly hose still.

  5. #20
    Murphy's bitch Twisted-X's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chiwhitesi View Post
    Shortly, i have to pick up some poly hose still.
    Sorry to kick this to the top, but did you ever get around to this?

  6. #21
    Registered User chiwhitesi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twisted-X View Post
    Sorry to kick this to the top, but did you ever get around to this?
    yeah i have all the stuff in my garage, im just waiting for some warm weather to do the DIY.

  7. #22
    FEEL's good SHG_EasyE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LLH View Post
    well i got a type r, which has type-s brakes with ferrodo DS2500 pads. 15 minute sessions isent a problem on the track i drive on, (3.5km long 22 corners/bends and 450meter longest straight, i got a top speed of 145km/h) and since i dont have any gauges to keep an eye on oil and water temp i think its best to keep it to 15 minutes at a time.


    -It would be intresting to see how hot it gets inside the wheel/around the brakes, and how much a duct with a hose cools things down. buy some cheap outdoor temprature readers and put them in there :D On my type R bumper i would just use the foglight hole i think..
    I would try a higher temp pad before going into a huge project like brake ducts. Ive run on this track a couple times with Hawk DTC70's up front and Porterfield R4 in the back. No braking issues whatsoever. Rear straight is 1.2 miles long, whole track is about 3.5. Never had an issue with the brakes at all doing back to back 20 minute sessions since both my girlfriend and I were both driving the car in different run groups.

    We were running the full course config. Basically all the way around the outside. You can see the braking zone at the end of the back straight is hard, into a very tight kink.


  8. #23
    Registered User BackroadEP3's Avatar
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    the problem i have found is the space where the tire and harmonic balancer are at full turn. i have wider tires and spacers but still have about 1 inch of space. the only way i see it to happen is to make some custom foam models to make a thin wall transition where the tires are at full turn. transmission side would be a cake walk, the other a lot of work...

  9. #24
    FEEL's good SHG_EasyE's Avatar
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    Def no need for ducts now :)


  10. #25
    AKA: Mucinex ep3jd's Avatar
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    That's beautiful

  11. #26
    Zut alors! gtolio's Avatar
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    Bringing back this thread, but with a twist.

    I am looking to route some brake ducts in, but have to get them around my intercooler piping.

    I am running a Wilwood Dynapro BBK (6-pots and 12.2" slotted rotors) with Wilwood PolyMatrix pads in the front. In the rear I have a stock setup with either Hawk or stock pads, I can't remember.

    I noticed some cooling issues (a la a mushy pedal) at the end of a track day. It came on quick which makes me think I overheated the pads, but I'm no expert in that subject.

    Anyways, I'd like to do something like the optional DC5 inlets or something. This is what my front end looks like:




    This is the track out here:



    Where they really take a beating is after the main straight coming into 4 and 5.
    Last edited by gtolio; 08-08-2011 at 10:08 PM.

  12. #27
    FEEL's good SHG_EasyE's Avatar
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    You can run the ducting under the frame rail for clearance and also use 2.0 or 2.5" duct instead of 3".

    You can also run naca ducts underneath the car for an air source like the Mugen RR

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