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  1. #1
    Registered User 04EP3Hatch's Avatar
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    Angry Part Throttle Knock

    well guys all of a sudden my CEL is goin nuts around 3400rpm to 4000rpm on light throttle, anywhere for -14 to -9 reading on the boost gauge im getting knock. Anyone have an idea? it was hot as hell and humid yesterday. Oh and another quickie, me and my tuner couldnt figure this out, on throttle tip in, the engine instantly yanks timing to i beleive -20 degree's? this causes for a weird hiccup when i push on the gas lightly, we tried tuning it out but it wont, we shut off the knock sensor, nothing, put it in closed loop, nothing, any idea's?

  2. #2
    Registered User Canuck Civic's Avatar
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    The tip in I believe you set in Gear Comp and TPS ignition retard. What gear does the hiccup happen in lower gears?

    TPS Ignition Retard
    The amount of ignition retard from throttle tip in can be adjusted by gear. A value of -100% is minimum retard; a value of 0 or higher is more ignition retard.

    For the knock maybe you can set an Ignition Air Temp Retard for low load conditions and at a certain temp pull a degree or 2 till it stops knocking. If you change your base map now, when it's cold you could've used the extra timing you had originally.

    This allows the ignition advance compensation by air temperature to be adjusted. The stock behaviour is to retard the ignition timing as the intake air temperatures increases.
    Last edited by Canuck Civic; 06-29-2010 at 12:21 PM.

  3. #3
    Registered User 04EP3Hatch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canuck Civic View Post
    The tip in I believe you set in Gear Comp and TPS ignition retard. What gear does the hiccup happen in lower gears?

    TPS Ignition Retard
    The amount of ignition retard from throttle tip in can be adjusted by gear. A value of -100% is minimum retard; a value of 0 or higher is more ignition retard.

    For the knock maybe you can set an Ignition Air Temp Retard for low load conditions and at a certain temp pull a degree or 2 till it stops knocking. If you change your base map now, when it's cold you could've used the extra timing you had originally.

    This allows the ignition advance compensation by air temperature to be adjusted. The stock behaviour is to retard the ignition timing as the intake air temperatures increases.
    dude i am trying to understand that but dabling in kpro is sooo hard for me, i can supercharge my car, but figuring this out is hard, but thank you very much sir! i will look at it with my freind who is very handy with hondata, but the hiccup is usually wherever in the rpm range, the part throttle knock is any gear

  4. #4
    0EM xEcuTi0n Ba82Ep3's Avatar
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    Try changing your knock sensor. I had the same issue, and it drove me nuts while tuning my SC'd setup. In my case, the knock sensor worked fine, but all of the sudden started picking up the sound of the SC's bypass valve and registering as knock.

  5. #5
    Registered User 04EP3Hatch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ba82Ep3 View Post
    Try changing your knock sensor. I had the same issue, and it drove me nuts while tuning my SC'd setup. In my case, the knock sensor worked fine, but all of the sudden started picking up the sound of the SC's bypass valve and registering as knock.
    really? wow thats strange, i find im getting less part throttle knock with different temperature outside, but i will look into that, how much do they run?

  6. #6
    0EM xEcuTi0n Ba82Ep3's Avatar
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    The knock sensor is basically a microphone. I guess in my case it became sensitive to the sound the bypass valve made when the SC was going into boost. Knock voltage got as high as 3.6v. Maybe it had something to do with age of the sensor (mine had 60k miles on it). I changed my sensor ($50), went back to the initial KAL and all was good. I sold my charger to a local, and i tuned his k20a with no issues... so i know it wasnt the charger.

    If you recall the knock sensors location, its in the front of the block under the starter... which places the bypass valve right over it. Its a real bitch to replace with everything installed. IMO, if youre going to rely on the knock sensor that much for tuning, you really need a new one anyways. The results would only be as good as the sensors giving you feedback.

  7. #7
    Registered User Canuck Civic's Avatar
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    I thought that people also said the way the ep3 manifold is and how the supercharger sits on it since it is closer to the engine that it can also pick up more noise.

    For the hiccup are we talking low rpm here mine used to only do it like 2k rpm in 4th

  8. #8
    0EM xEcuTi0n Ba82Ep3's Avatar
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    Mine did it every gear regardless of RPM... as long as i was transitioning into boost i got 'knock'. For the TS, keep in mind that reducing ignition advance wont always reduce true knock in a SC'd setup. I have seen it do the exact opposite...

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