I don't know shit about turbo-ing eps, but since the DC5 radiator support is shaped differently would the intercooler piping in that kit work?
Do you ever make the sound effect of a turbo spooling up, an then a BOV to finish it off?
I do, I do that all the time. At least a 100x a day. It's because all I think about is getting my car finished. I think I'm almost there but the reality is I still need like another year maybe two to accomplish what I have in mind.
How many of you say: DON'T TRUST A USED TURBO KIT (ESPECIALLY FROM EBAY)?
I know I do. Been fucked before.
I've been thinking about this turbo kit for a long time (from ebay) & it's brand new. please take a look an tell me what you think. Looks good to me, but then again what do I know.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TURBO...item2a08d0adb1
My build is going to consist of:
K20Z1 (zero miles) w/ perhaps getting the head a stage II port and polish & 3 angle valve job.
K20A2 Trans w/ at least a stage II clutch kit and LSD
RBC Intake Manifold w/ 74mm throttle body & Hondata IMG
550 or 650 cc injectors
Of course KPRO w/ RSX Type S ECU
And that turbo kit I referred to w/ a 3inch exhaust
My goals will be to run at least 350 whp or more on pump gas boosting 15psi.
Now am I crazy or is that possible?
Thank you for taking the time to read my thread.
I don't know shit about turbo-ing eps, but since the DC5 radiator support is shaped differently would the intercooler piping in that kit work?
haha i do that turbo spooling up sound all the time and end it of with the good hks bov sound! im having boost withdrawls right now cause i been separated from my car for a while thanks to the good deployments. Me and my friend who has a turbo car make those noises all the time and talk shit about whos going to whoop whos ass. He has a SRT-4, a fucking quick one too!
looks like you got a nice build list! i wish you the best on it and enjoy the boost! its addicting!!!
I built my own turbo kit with a lot of ebay stuff, such as an intercooler just like that one and the t-bolt clamps like those.
I can tell you from experience, the intercooler piping isnt the greatest...It doesnt fit perfect, and doesnt have lips on the edges to help keep it from blowing couplers off. The t-bolt clamps i got broke slightly past finger tight...well maybe a little more than that, but i ended up spending around $120 on all new t-bolt clamps after just about every single ebay clamp snapped. The turbo is well, turbonetics, so nothing bad there, the manifold is good cause you wont ever break it or crack it, and the oil supply line looks good. The oil return line sucks, the wastegate isnt the best and can cause boost creep or even fail altogether...not saying it will, but can.
If i were you, i would look into pricing the individual good pieces, and see how much it would cost to replace the bad parts of that kit with better parts, and do the math.
I havent had a problem with my intercooler kit like that one, other than the not so perfect fitment. No problems with the manifold or turbo, oil supply line, or even the BOV, and the down pipe isnt bad, but you should look into t-bolt clamps, wastegate, and return line. Also, the couplers...You'll need a reducer from your throttle body to piping, and the 90's it comes with are worthless, not even the right size.
If you shop around, you can get all of the good pieces cheaper than $1600. The biggest thing is the turbo, but that is probably the lowest model of a turbonetics you can buy. Hope the info helps, coming from someone who has used some of those parts.
No problem.
I did a lot of searching on the internet, not just ebay, for parts i needed. Like the wastegate, i got a tial wastegate brand new for like $120, normally wouldve been $250 or more, just for example.
As far as the turbo goes, everyone has their own opinion. I went with a precision 5031 which is pretty much the cheapest precision you can buy, but theres nothing wrong with turbonetics, or garrett. Ball bearing is more expensive than journal bearing, and you have to run coolant lines with a ball bearing.
You have to do research to find out what compressor and turbine housing is gonna work with your set up that you plan on running. I used a .60 compressor, .63 turbine housing.
I ordered a lot of parts from clubep3.com, got my couplers from boostcontrollers.com, t-bolt clamps from turbohoses.com, and used my bidding skills on ebay to get some really good deals. I got lucky with oil supply and return lines, because here in phoenix, theres a store called the parker store that specializes in making lines and hoses at a pretty cheap price but im sure you can find a site that has them cheap.
Im sure some others will chime in with other places you can find this stuff and opinions on which turbo and other parts are best, so just keep checking in.
I suggest not touching the head with the port/polishing. Keep your 5spd and that means you don't need the RSX-S ecu. There is not need to upgrade the throttle body also. So with the money saved there, you can piece together your own "kit" with a better quality turbo manifold, turbo, wastegate, and bov. I don't see anything wrong with getting an "ebay" intercooler kit. I'm saying it will work, but it's not the best to be clear on that.
It depends on the turbo to say how much boost you're going to run. You can shoot for a desired whp and pick your turbo from that.
I want a 6spd trans cuz my trans isn't goin to last much longer. 3rd gear grinds a lot, prolly a syncro? And its getting worse.
Plus i have an LSD for the a2 trans & it has a much shorter gear ratio.
I know ebay intercooler isnt top choice but like you said it'll work.
I wanna make it work for at least a year. Like build this with basic parts then replace with better parts.
My buddy can hook me up with the stage 2 port & polish for $450, so why not.
So Since my engine is brand new my buddy told me i have to break in the engine at least 3k miles before i can beat the shit out of it.
Now i thought it was a little more miles then that.
he also told me i can break it in with the turbo, I just have to change the oil after 1k miles twice then i can change the oil in regular 3k mile intervals.
Does that make sense?
Also wouldn't i need an upgraded fuel pump? Walboro
Most modern engines are broken in from the factory, but heres something pulled straight out of the owners manual. "Help assure your vehicle’s future
reliability and performance by paying
extra attention to how you drive
during the first 600 miles (1,000 km).
Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid
acceleration.
Avoid hard braking for the first
200 miles (300 km).
Do not change the oil until the
scheduled maintenance time.
You should follow these same
recommendations with an
overhauled or exchanged engine, or
when the brakes are relined"
You shouldnt need a walbro at this time, but it would ensure you dont have fueling problems.
Shouldnt need the RSX ecu if he gets Hondata and the Hybrid Racing speedo converter. I would recommend Precision turbo over Turbonetics ANY DAY. And prettu much once you cross the 250-260 HP mark, you WILL need a walbro. I would go with cams and valve springs over a port and polish job as well.
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