DIY - MugenReplica N1 Suspension. (DIY & pics coming after victim...err volunteer)

[MugenReplica]

The Idea

So, I was sitting around the other night trying to figure out my next idea for a unique modification to my Ep3, when I decided to walk downstairs and go through my pile of spare Ep3 parts. After rummaging around for an hour or so, I ran across my old blown out front struts sans top hats (they're on 2004EP3HATCH's Ep), along with my spare tie rod ends (two from an Ep3 and one from an RSX-S). After blinking a couple of times an idea popped into my head.

Why not use Ep3 struts with RSX-S tie rod ends?

Now, some of you are going to be screaming "foul" at me and tell me this doesn't work as the RSX-S tie rod ends have a larger diameter bolt than the Ep3 tie rods ends. You would be correct in that factual statement, BUT you are thinking too narrow minded. Just think Mugen N1 tie rod strut placement.....

The Theory

This should work 100% perfectly to fix your steering rack creak, the bumpsteer problems, and the greatly increased steering rack angle with our MacPherson struts on a lowered suspension over a 1.5" drop and be OEM reliable. The point of this thread, is that since the Ep3 strut has a smaller tie rod bolt hole, in theory you should be able to machine out a tapered tie rod bolt hole inverted (or upside down) into the strut for the larger RSX-S tie rod ends.

The Process

First, you buy two RSX-S tie rod ends from your local Acura dealer, online dealer ,or if you plan on lower than a 2" drop go to Advance Auto and buy (2) part #S-ES2382 (these help out if you lower too far and can not get your toe to 0).

Right side tie rod end is the S-ES2382, Left side is the RSX-S stock tie rod end.


Second, you buy yourself whatever Ep3 specific suspension kit you want or remove both front struts. Just buy a cheapy Raceland Suspension



Third, you take both the tie rod ends and the struts to your local machine shop. Tell the gentleman running the machine shop that you want to the tie rod end bolts that you are supplying him with to mount and taper the opposite direction of stock (so you can INVERT the tie rod ends) on your strut arms. Since you are using a strut with a smaller tie rod end hole to begin with, this allows you to have extra material to have a perfect taper the opposite direction when it is machined out (versus just drilling a 9/16" bit through a DC5 strut and eliminating the taper). The key here is to keep the taper for the tie rod bolt like on the Mugen N1 suspension kit. Let's just call this DIY "The MugenReplica N1 Suspension".

Fourth, paint them gold like the Mugen N1 suspension (I'm just kidding, but I do think it looks better than the Racelands).





Fifth, REinstall your front struts and clean them while your at it.

Sixth, now your tie rod end should be aiming down, grab it and flip it 180 degrees until it is facing upwards. Reinstall your castle nut and NEW cotter pin, then tighten down. Repeat on opposite side. Bask in the glow of having OEM inverted tie rod ends and never having to worry about steering rack creak, bumpsteer problems, or bad tie rod angle adjustment ever again! All that plus you don't have to constantly lube them like you do with all these other spherical inverted tie rod ends.




Leave some feedback if you read this....

[NickL]

This is interesting. Did you previously have steering rack creak and this fixed it? I dont have it but would like to prevent it. Also would it work if I just took the new#S-ES2382 tie rod ends to the machine shop with the stock struts so that I wouldnt have to remove my front suspension?

Thanks for writing this up by the way.

[MugenReplica]

This is interesting. Did you previously have steering rack creak and this fixed it? I dont have it but would like to prevent it. Also would it work if I just took the new#S-ES2382 tie rod ends to the machine shop with the stock struts so that I wouldnt have to remove my front suspension?

Thanks for writing this up by the way.

I've had steering rack creak in the past, but I do not have it anymore. I actually have an DC5 suspension kit installed in my Ep3, so I can't do this without totally eliminating the taper on my strut arm tie rod end bolt holes.

Whatever struts you want to drive on is the struts you will have do this modification to. So, if you are going to install your stock struts and drive on them, then you an do it. I assume you have some other suspension kit installed already?

[ep-unit]

great thread....!!

[Anrasmor]

Really good idea. I think when I order my Racelands I may try this out. I plan on going decently low and was afraid that this might put too much strain on my rack, but this sounds like a great alternative.

[dirtyMETHOD]

not bad at all, worth a trial or two

[Andrew]

you're a boss for this. i've only seen this on clubrsx, but your boss brain brought it here! nice great and my future racelands will/should have this haha

[MugenReplica]

you're a boss for this. i've only seen this on clubrsx, but your boss brain brought it here! nice great and my future racelands will/should have this haha

The drilling out of the DC5 perch has been done for years now, but they have to completely drill it straight with no taper for the tie rod tapered bolt (which adds a touch of play because it does not hold the bolt properly. We have the advantage of starting out with slightly more material to begin with so it's simple for us to taper from the bottom up to fit the RSX-S tie rod ends.

[chiwhitesi]

thats some cool shit

[Anrasmor]

I think I may be doing this very soon. I'm in need of new shocks and tie rods and it seems like a damn good opportunity to try this out.

What do the part #S-ES2382 tie rods come off of?

[MugenReplica]

I think I may be doing this very soon. I'm in need of new shocks and tie rods and it seems like a damn good opportunity to try this out.

What do the part #S-ES2382 tie rods come off of?

Not sure, but I got them off a local RSX-S friend who said he got the part number off from clubrsx and used it to zero out his toe. They supposedly work because they have a longer sleeve housing for more adjustment. He was dropped 2.5" and couldn't zero out his toe. He told me those worked to correct it.

[Anrasmor]

Not sure, but I got them off a local RSX-S friend who said he got the part number off from clubrsx and used it to zero out his toe. They supposedly work because they have a longer sleeve housing for more adjustment. He was dropped 2.5" and couldn't zero out his toe. He told me those worked to correct it.

Tried doing a search for them on Autozone's website but it didn't turn up anything. I may have to bring in the number and have them compare it to something else.

[MugenReplica]

Tried doing a search for them on Autozone's website but it didn't turn up anything. I may have to bring in the number and have them compare it to something else.

Maybe he didn't give the correct part #. When I shot him a quick text, that's what he responded.

[Ronnie]

well , nice write up
and I like the way you diss the racelands

However, I thought those tie rod ends are designed not be mount upside down ?????
- even with that being upside down, is the alignment shops gonna be able to the alignment ?
- why not throw some inverted tie rod end instead ???

[Anrasmor]

well , nice write up
and I like the way you diss the racelands

However, I thought those tie rod ends are designed not be mount upside down ?????
- even with that being upside down, is the alignment shops gonna be able to the alignment ?
- why not throw some inverted tie rod end instead ???

I didn't think he dissed Raceland coilovers...

Tie rods can be used either direction. It just depends on if they fit based on which side the taper is on.