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  1. #1
    Registered User BajaPantiEP's Avatar
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    Do you need kpro? for after market cams???

    i was thinking of getting some skunk 2, or brian crower stage 1 cams do i need k pro to tune them or is it plug and play?

  2. #2
    Registered User Garrett's Avatar
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    not needed, but highly recommended.. Other people correct me if i'm wrong but that's what i've been told. Also your probably going to need some valves if your using it as a daily driver. And you will need an ecu, such as kpro, to tune it
    Last edited by Garrett; 10-30-2010 at 01:27 PM. Reason: type

  3. #3
    Registered User urthworm's Avatar
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    Ive heard of people just dropping in cams and calling it a day.. but ive never seen how they ran. I know with kpro and a tune you will obviously get the most out of it. Is this for the a3 motor?

  4. #4
    Registered User BajaPantiEP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by urthworm View Post
    Ive heard of people just dropping in cams and calling it a day.. but ive never seen how they ran. I know with kpro and a tune you will obviously get the most out of it. Is this for the a3 motor?
    yes for the a3... i pulled my valve cover and my exhaust came in pitted next to cylinder 4

  5. #5
    My hatch is blue.... eastsiderider's Avatar
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    I have been running Skunk2 stage 1's in my k20a3 with no kpro and a stock valve train for over 3 years now. I have put over 60k on them. The power gain is very noticable....however, tuned you will make more. I went to a dyno meet a few years back and made 169-170 whp with an AEM V2 intake, DC shorty header and a Buddy Club ProSpec exhaust. The car was still equipped with the factory catalytic converter.

  6. #6
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    The stage1's are fantastic upgrades from stock, they give a bit more and require no kpro to have a properly running engine.
    ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
    Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !

    "Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"

  7. #7
    Registered User affiq's Avatar
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    thats true...u dont need a kpro...but its better to have it too squeeze out all the power...

  8. #8
    Registered User Jharobikesr2's Avatar
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    Stage 1: Kpro is not required, but i would recommend it.
    Stage 2 and 3: Kpro is required to maintain stock drive-ability.



    Personal note: I made 23Hp from stage 1 cams on my JRSC k20a3, but DO NOT forget to invest into a timing chain tensioner. Aftermarket cams wear the stock unit out, and that will cause your timing chain to slip and well........ lets just say it gets ugly.

  9. #9
    Registered User BajaPantiEP's Avatar
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    thanks guys ou really helped me out stage one it is:D now since i have a pited cam do you guys suggest in replacing anything else?

  10. #10
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jharobikesr2 View Post

    Personal note: I made 23Hp from stage 1 cams on my JRSC k20a3, but DO NOT forget to invest into a timing chain tensioner. Aftermarket cams wear the stock unit out, and that will cause your timing chain to slip and well........ lets just say it gets ugly.
    There are other items of far more necessity to prevent cam timing jumpage, the 07+ K20Z3 upper chain guide and aftermarket lower chain guard(not a guide, but a guard). I had a tensioner completely fail, ie the bolts that hold it in snapped off, the chain made a hell of alot of noise, but it NEVER jumped timing!

    I havnt seen a stg 1-2 cam tear up a tensioner or a chain any more than stock.

    Stage 2 can be run with a stock ECU as well, but it wont be optimal, the valvetrain will need upgrading(stock typeS valvetrain works wonders and is far cheaper than the crap sold along with the cams)(A3 stg2 cams are slightly smaller than the small lobes on the stock K20A2)


    I would seriously consider a new oil pump, the debris caught in the pan is picked up and is forced thru the oil pump BEFORE going to the oil filter, also remember that not all the oil is sent thru the filter each pass, so debris does get sent thru the engine, so a good pan flush is required.
    Last edited by talonXracer; 10-31-2010 at 06:07 AM.
    ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
    Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !

    "Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"

  11. #11
    Registered User NGS's Avatar
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    so can i make my a3 work with:

    K&N sri
    DCRH
    EXHAUST
    skunk2 stage 1
    Skunk2 Timing Chain Tensioner
    HONDATA Reflash
    ACT XACT StreetLite Flywheel (11.4lbs)
    Exedy Cerametallic Stage II Clutch

    and be putting around 180whp? thanks :D

  12. #12
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    You will probably see a lean condition at WOT with full bolt-ons and a reflash.
    ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
    Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !

    "Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"

  13. #13
    Registered User NGS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by talonXracer View Post
    You will probably see a lean condition at WOT with full bolt-ons and a reflash.
    so i don't use reflash? :S sorry im new to this whole engine thing :(

  14. #14
    ephatch member RHCP0801's Avatar
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    you wont see 180hp with that setup, especially with an sri and the crappy dc sports header

    you can use the reflash with that setup, i ran reflash with full bolt ons and no problems for about a year

  15. #15
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    Hondata even states that the reflash will be lean with full bolt-on's.
    ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
    Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !

    "Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"

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