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  1. #1
    Registered Ricer Tortoise's Avatar
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    Thumbs up First swap, doing a quick checklist

    Gettin ready to do my first swap since my a3 blew. Im goin with a k24a1 and using my stock ep3 5spd. Jus wanna cover a few topics before i start buyin parts. All input is appreciated!

    header- i know i need a raceheader, do i buy one that is ep3 specific or crv specific? and what is the best one for around 300? i was thinking obx.

    Intake Manifold/intake-I wanna do a different manifold so i see a little power. Which honda manifold should i use? PRB? and also what gaskets and adapters do i need? Also, will the whale penis for my ep3 fit? cuz i bought it right before my motor blew and never even used it.

    Kpro-I know i need kpro. Will i need a crv ecu to get kpro in or will my ep3 ecu be fine to get kpro in and run the motor? also i bought the reflash once it got cheaper..how much will the upgrade be? Will i be fine on a basemap with the setup im gonna run or should i get tuned?

    I know i also need the crv passenger bracket. Anything im forgetting? And what kinda numbers do you guys think i will see off of this setup? Will gains be noticeable over my a3?

    Thanks a lot for any input guys i appreciate it alot! sorry for all the questions but this is my first experience with a swap ever. Is everything just plug and go with this swap?

  2. #2
    k24 ep3 bchaney's Avatar
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    For 300 you're prob stuck with a DCRH. There's a sticky for the a1 swap that includes header info, you should look at that.

    I would swap the ep's PRB mani onto the a1. Your CAI should fit fine.

    A kpro'd ecu becomes sort of a "universal" ecu. Either an ep or crv one will work. Check hondata's site for upgrade prices. You should be able to find someone with a map of a similar setup to yours.

    Over a completely stock a3 you'll gain some whp cause of the bolt-ons and definitely get some torque. Compare the #s in the k-series engine sticky.

  3. #3
    Registered User jblanco325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tortoise View Post
    Gettin ready to do my first swap since my a3 blew. Im goin with a k24a1 and using my stock ep3 5spd. Jus wanna cover a few topics before i start buyin parts. All input is appreciated!

    header- i know i need a raceheader, do i buy one that is ep3 specific or crv specific? and what is the best one for around 300? i was thinking obx.

    Intake Manifold/intake-I wanna do a different manifold so i see a little power. Which honda manifold should i use? PRB? and also what gaskets and adapters do i need? Also, will the whale penis for my ep3 fit? cuz i bought it right before my motor blew and never even used it.

    Kpro-I know i need kpro. Will i need a crv ecu to get kpro in or will my ep3 ecu be fine to get kpro in and run the motor? also i bought the reflash once it got cheaper..how much will the upgrade be? Will i be fine on a basemap with the setup im gonna run or should i get tuned?

    I know i also need the crv passenger bracket. Anything im forgetting? And what kinda numbers do you guys think i will see off of this setup? Will gains be noticeable over my a3?

    Thanks a lot for any input guys i appreciate it alot! sorry for all the questions but this is my first experience with a swap ever. Is everything just plug and go with this swap?
    header - go DCrh should clear stock swaybar
    intake manifold- rbc ftw! requires adapter plate (kc concepts i believe??) and stock throttle body, best for mid and top range. add hondata gasket for more hp
    kpro - base is a good staring point but don't drive on it, only to tuning shop if you have too and get a tune!!!!!!! you will thank yourself later, my old interga will tell you haha
    hp wise- i would expect 160whp and 100tq but not sure on a1's potential though and depends on supporting mods, cai vs ram etc

  4. #4
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    CRV ecu will NOT work in our chassis, it HAS to be a 02-05 EP3 or 02-04 DC5

    The best bet for a mani on the A1 will be the PRC. no adaptors needed.(but do add the aftermarket plenum spacer)

    You will notice a significant improvement over the a3, the a1 should have been the EP3's stock engine.

    Never run the engine on a base map for the K24's for long, they are all screwed up frontwards and backwards
    Last edited by talonXracer; 11-17-2010 at 01:04 PM.
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  5. #5
    Registered Ricer Tortoise's Avatar
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    Thanks guys! But 160hp 100tq?! I might as well jus rebuild my a3 head and save $4000

  6. #6
    ephatch member RHCP0801's Avatar
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    thats a better idea

  7. #7
    Registered User jblanco325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tortoise View Post
    Thanks guys! But 160hp 100tq?! I might as well jus rebuild my a3 head and save $4000
    ya with my k24a2 i put 181whp and 151tq(no intake & stock catback) so my guess is the a1 is less. its rated at 160hp crank so...ya.... but the torque is where you see most of your gains

  8. #8
    明らかにド素人 JDM SHIT! playap07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tortoise View Post
    Thanks guys! But 160hp 100tq?! I might as well jus rebuild my a3 head and save $4000
    yea right! the tq should be about the same as the hp if the engine is fully stock!


    Quote Originally Posted by jblanco325 View Post
    ya with my k24a2 i put 181whp and 151tq(no intake & stock catback) so my guess is the a1 is less. its rated at 160hp crank so...ya.... but the torque is where you see most of your gains
    the k24a1 has 160hp 160tq stock on paper, to the wheels i bet its 140hp 140tq. usually the tq and hp will be about the same if the engine remain simi stock depending on mods. thats from looking at people dyno sheets.


    bong here you go:http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthr...ally-got-tuned
    Last edited by playap07; 11-18-2010 at 07:20 AM.

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