WOOT!!! I DID IT....... now what??

[jblanco325]

ok so, everyone and there sister wants to do a k-swap especially the k24a2 and i was one of them. we all know they cost more than buying a ticket to the moon, especially with nos (haha fast&the furious ref anyone?).
And now that i sold my 3rd kidney in some 3rd world country slum i cant pronounce, i finally completed my swap with all the fixings i could shove on my cedit card. haha.
i know everyone always asks pre swap questions ie; what header, which side bracket, what part number blah blah blah..tik tok. and they always get pushed aside to the seach button. and trust me ive been there

so my question goes out to the tuner that has had there swap for >20k miles. and what maintenance is required?
besides the obvious: oil/filter, spark plugs, air filter, tire rotation, etc

what can i do to protect my k-motor from taking a shit.. literally
i live 5 seconds from some awesome twisties that would make tofu boy and his AE86 jizz in their pants. so i drive them, and drive them hard :D

so what kinds of things should i do to keep the motor and tranny from checking out early. My dad's mechanic swears its a ticking time bomb with less life left than a missile locked ice man, but he watches nascar so who really knows better. but he did bring up a good point that most race motors only last a few races let alone a season before being completely rebuilt.

so going back to my question, what kinds of things should i do to keep my car in top running order??
-what have you learned from having a swapped EPthree
-what are signs of wear/ what should be replaced more regularity
-what should be expected
-what can i do to keep the car reliable, for daily use...for this is my only car and dd :(

thanks for any info/ insight

[talonXracer]

Your dads mechanic is a typical domestic type, What makes a race engine not last long are the race components, like forged pistons and Ti valve springs etc, very strong but very short lived. The K24A2 has no race components stock, it should run for a good long time, but add forged pistons and the lifespan goes to shit, pampered 20-30K max before symptoms of piston skirt wear arise..

Change out your trans mtf every other oil change, sure it may still look nice and clean, but there are no combustion byproducts contaminating the oil, but it is still being degraded on the gears. Transmissions wear down oil quickly.

Personally toss the nos

[heyvortek]

keep the internal OEM? how much power r u goin for? I/H/E, Kpro and a good tune will make it last as long as u dont rev to 10k all day everyday. im sure u can put a few bullets into a kmotor and it still run good...dont do it tho :)

[jblanco325]

cool, good to know. tahnks
do you recomend a different oil wieght, i have just been useing stock

ya i dont use nos anyone..

[jblanco325]

keep the internal OEM? how much power r u goin for? I/H/E, Kpro and a good tune will make it last as long as u dont rev to 10k all day everyday. im sure u can put a few bullets into a kmotor and it still run good...dont do it tho :)

ya just an all stock k24a2 w/ bolt-ons i/rh/e and rbc my goal was 200whp and 160tq. rev limit set at 7500rpm.
i was told i can rev to 8 & higher with a type S oil pump and cams but idk maybe ill test that later.....

[heyvortek]

i think ppl suggest not using 5w-40..i think you should be good with 10w-30. im sure talon can chime in. look around to see what u need for a swap. a crv passenger mount for sure. look at common k24 answer thingy. a simple swap should cost around 6k assuming u have no motor or kpro

[jblanco325]

i think ppl suggest not using 5w-40..i think you should be good with 10w-30. im sure talon can chime in. look around to see what u need for a swap. a crv passenger mount for sure. look at common k24 answer thingy. a simple swap should cost around 6k assuming u have no motor or kpro

ya it cost me $+6k with all the parts & shit. ify the motors in, running, and tuned, i wanted to know what i do after to keep my investment from craping out.

[talonXracer]

i think ppl suggest not using 5w-40..i think you should be good with 10w-30. im sure talon can chime in. look around to see what u need for a swap. a crv passenger mount for sure. look at common k24 answer thingy. a simple swap should cost around 6k assuming u have no motor or kpro

most people would say to use the 5w40 especially banging on it, but make sure to check the oil at EVERY fuel fill up. The VTEC system oil pressures will eat alot of oil (due to the higher pressures required for operation,it vaporizes and burns off thru the PCV) I use 5w40 in the winter and 10w40 during the summer months

[jblanco325]

cool thanks talon for the info !!!
any suggestion on tranny oil weight?

[TXEP3]

As already mentioned, you do not have a nascar motor or some 5 second dragster motor. You have a reliable honda motor pulled from a car that generally passes 150k miles with the regular maintenance you already suggested. With that said, regardless if you beat on it like a fwd tak delivering delicious squishiness to all of mount fuji, I would run whatever gear oil the manufacturer recommends. As far as engine oil, many people have different opinions, but seeing how your internals are stock, I would also run manufacturer recommended weight.

[RHCP0801]

ya just an all stock k24a2 w/ bolt-ons i/rh/e and rbc my goal was 200whp and 160tq. rev limit set at 7500rpm.
i was told i can rev to 8 & higher with a type S oil pump and cams but idk maybe ill test that later.....

your gonna be at more hp than that

[talonXracer]

As already mentioned, you do not have a nascar motor or some 5 second dragster motor. You have a reliable honda motor pulled from a car that generally passes 150k miles with the regular maintenance you already suggested. With that said, regardless if you beat on it like a fwd tak delivering delicious squishiness to all of mount fuji, I would run whatever gear oil the manufacturer recommends. As far as engine oil, many people have different opinions, but seeing how your internals are stock, I would also run manufacturer recommended weight.

The internals being stock has very little real impact on the choice of oil. You need to take into account first off the driving habits of the driver and then the external components like intake and exhaust and the Kpro tune.

Take into consideration the EP3's factory recommended oil weight, 5w20. Even with stock internals it is seriously insufficient. All of the local stealerships stopped recommending/supplying 20 weight oil and their oil related warranty claims and complaints dropped to ZERO. Now add in a bunch of bolt-on's ad kpro and you will destroy the engine in short order on the 5w20 swill.

[goldEp]

The internals being stock has very little real impact on the choice of oil. You need to take into account first off the driving habits of the driver and then the external components like intake and exhaust and the Kpro tune.

Take into consideration the EP3's factory recommended oil weight, 5w20. Even with stock internals it is seriously insufficient. All of the local stealerships stopped recommending/supplying 20 weight oil and their oil related warranty claims and complaints dropped to ZERO. Now add in a bunch of bolt-on's ad kpro and you will destroy the engine in short order on the 5w20 swill.

good point.!

[jblanco325]

cool thx guys