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  1. #31
    4 TDs in Single Game usedep3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slip_Angle View Post
    Just want to say thanks for this "How To". My SRS light was on (Code 9-3) so I did the resistor by-pass per your write-up and worked great!

    Thanks again.
    i know this is prob a noob question but how do you get your srs code read? via the obdII port?
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  2. #32
    FEEL's good SHG_EasyE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by usedep3 View Post
    i know this is prob a noob question but how do you get your srs code read? via the obdII port?
    Yup via OBD2 port. When you plug in a scanner youve got a few options including Engine codes and SRS codes.

  3. #33
    nothing to see here Slip_Angle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHG_EasyE View Post
    Yup via OBD2 port. When you plug in a scanner youve got a few options including Engine codes and SRS codes.
    I couldn't pull the code via the OBDII port. I had to use the method in this post and jump the OBDII pins.

    http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread...=read+srs+code

  4. #34
    FEEL's good SHG_EasyE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slip_Angle View Post
    I couldn't pull the code via the OBDII port. I had to use the method in this post and jump the OBDII pins.

    http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread...=read+srs+code
    really? Thats odd. I know Ive pulled srs codes with a toyota toughbook and snap-on ethos.

  5. #35
    nothing to see here Slip_Angle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHG_EasyE View Post
    really? Thats odd. I know Ive pulled srs codes with a toyota toughbook and snap-on ethos.
    Must be a Honda thing? I tried seeing the codes with both Kpro and my Brockway R920 (OBDII reader)
    Last edited by Princess; 12-10-2008 at 03:29 PM.

  6. #36
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    As an FYI

    The stock buckle will work on a Bride seat rail, I had one on mine. It does sit a little high, but not enough to be sketch.

    :no pics

  7. #37
    Registered User BeaterEP's Avatar
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    So here's my seat-noob question; when you're doing all of this, are you effectively killing the EP's seat belt tensioner system, or the airbag system (in the case of steering wheel replacement)?
    And, if so, do you just avoid that by mounting seats/rails that are compatible with the OEM belt/buckle/airbag?

  8. #38
    FEEL's good SHG_EasyE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeaterEP View Post
    So here's my seat-noob question; when you're doing all of this, are you effectively killing the EP's seat belt tensioner system, or the airbag system (in the case of steering wheel replacement)?
    And, if so, do you just avoid that by mounting seats/rails that are compatible with the OEM belt/buckle/airbag?
    Well the reason for the resistor plug is to keep the rest of the system active when you remove one or more components. Whether or not you decide to keep the tensioners or replace them when using a bucket seat is up to you and your specific setup.

  9. #39
    Registered User BeaterEP's Avatar
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    Ah, I see.
    So basically, you need to add resistance in spots where you've removed part of the OEM setup in order to keep the rest of the related bits working, and avoid throwing errors. Got it.
    Sorry, just not something I'd read up on and I've been thinking about swapping my driver's seat with a proper molded seat.
    Next question would be, if I can't keep the OEM fastener, can I still use the OEM belt? Or, will it just not operate properly?
    Or, is running a jumper like those described in this thread how you keep your OEM belt working w/o the OEM buckle?
    Sorry man, new info for me, just making sure it's sinking in right.

  10. #40
    Registered User firmk20's Avatar
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    this is a great write up.

  11. #41
    FEEL's good SHG_EasyE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeaterEP View Post
    Ah, I see.
    So basically, you need to add resistance in spots where you've removed part of the OEM setup in order to keep the rest of the related bits working, and avoid throwing errors. Got it.
    Sorry, just not something I'd read up on and I've been thinking about swapping my driver's seat with a proper molded seat.
    Next question would be, if I can't keep the OEM fastener, can I still use the OEM belt? Or, will it just not operate properly?
    Or, is running a jumper like those described in this thread how you keep your OEM belt working w/o the OEM buckle?
    Sorry man, new info for me, just making sure it's sinking in right.
    You need to find a buckle that will work with your belt. The older non SRS honda buckles dont work. Thats why I used an EVO 8 buckle. There may be others out there without the SRS that will work with our belt but I dont know of them. The jumper is simply there to trick the ECU into thinking the SRS unit is still in place.

  12. #42
    Registered EP3 User CivicSier's Avatar
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    Is there a write up on installing new air bags? I need driver/passenger side done... Would I have to replace the SRS module along with the Bags? Would I have to replace the belt sensors? Or can I use this bypass.. What happens if the jumper on the belt sensor falls out will the bags deploy?

  13. #43
    FEEL's good SHG_EasyE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CivicSier View Post
    Is there a write up on installing new air bags? I need driver/passenger side done... Would I have to replace the SRS module along with the Bags? Would I have to replace the belt sensors? Or can I use this bypass.. What happens if the jumper on the belt sensor falls out will the bags deploy?
    Not sure about the airbag DIY. If you want the whole system functioning properly you will need to replace both airbags and both belt tensioners. If you dont mind not having any one component you can use the bypass to keep the SRS light off and keep the remaining components (if any) working properly.

    If the bypass falls out (which if you use my plugs they absolutely wont fall out) the srs light will go on and the air bags wont work. There is no risk of them deploying unexpectedly.

  14. #44
    Registered EP3 User CivicSier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHG_EasyE View Post
    Not sure about the airbag DIY. If you want the whole system functioning properly you will need to replace both airbags and both belt tensioners. If you dont mind not having any one component you can use the bypass to keep the SRS light off and keep the remaining components (if any) working properly.

    If the bypass falls out (which if you use my plugs they absolutely wont fall out) the srs light will go on and the air bags wont work. There is no risk of them deploying unexpectedly.
    Both bags deployed... Would I need the SRS module that was with the new bags, or would the reset fix it?

    I also found a 2001 civic 4 door at a local junk yard, Would the airbags work with a 2003 EP3?
    Last edited by CivicSier; 02-24-2011 at 03:23 PM.

  15. #45
    FEEL's good SHG_EasyE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CivicSier View Post
    Both bags deployed... Would I need the SRS module that was with the new bags, or would the reset fix it?

    I also found a 2001 civic 4 door at a local junk yard, Would the airbags work with a 2003 EP3?
    Module should be fine, but you might need new sensors up front if they were damaged in the accident. I know the plugs are the same but i doubt you can use them. The airbag unit is bonded to the horn pad and dash pad, never mind the brackets probably arent the same.

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