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Thread: 2nd Gear Grind

  1. #16
    Registered User AKEP's Avatar
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    have someone drive with you thats been driving a while. like. 6 years in a manual. and they'll tell you if you're shifting like a retard or your tranmission is messed up.

    synchros will grind at the same rpm for a consistant shift speed. ie no matter what i do, if i hold my engine at 3.5k and put it in third, it will grind.

    driver error/retard shifting is pretty much that. you're slamming through gears too fast. the gears have to slow down before they mesh together.
    Last edited by /-/O/\/D/\ EP3; 01-22-2009 at 06:52 PM.

  2. #17
    Registered User logos22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKEP View Post
    have someone drive with you thats been driving a while. like. 6 years in a manual. and they'll tell you if you're shifting like a retard or your tranmission is messed up.

    synchros will grind at the same rpm for a consistant shift speed. ie no matter what i do, if i hold my engine at 3.5k and put it in third, it will grind.

    driver error/retard shifting is pretty much that. you're slamming through gears too fast. the gears have to slow down before they mesh together.

    Ok, so if I'm just sitting in neutral and hold my engine at 3.5 or whatever rpm I usually hear the grind and then put the car in second, it should grind? I think I remember hearing about that test somewhere, maybe a youtube video or something. Since you sound experienced, how long should I wait before shifting gears? Thanks

  3. #18
    Registered User AKEP's Avatar
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    it should just be a natural shift movement, no jerking, just a flick of the wrist.
    http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v6...sort=ascending
    ^after his first couple shifts, thats a normal shift.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhEsQi_BFfs
    ^pretty much how not to shift normally. believe it or not, some people shift (while driving in a normal fashion) like this all the time. They just don't know any better i suppose...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucoovZ-wwGA
    normal shifting, then powershifting. the normal shifting is a little fast, but its an S2000, thats normal for them. the powershifting later on is obviously speeding, but if your not trying to race anyone, you shouldn't be shifting like that in the ep3.

    i think, unfortunatly, your 2nd gear synchros are toast. it happens.

  4. #19
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    That second clip is how to powershift properly doing minimum damage/wear to your syncros and clutch , the 3rd is how to do it poorly (smearing the clutch etc)...

  5. #20
    Registered User logos22's Avatar
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    Shoot...I kinda had a gut feeling that the synchro was toast. Well, about how much would it cost to repair something like that? Also, would my warranty cover the repair? Is it harmful to my car to just continue driving without fixing it and just shifting slowly into 2nd?

  6. #21
    Registered User USAF EP3's Avatar
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    By the time you've gotten the transmission case cracked opened, removed the gear(s) and synchro(s) and paid for new gear(s) and syncro(s), you would be better off buying another used transmission in good condition. Of course you need to make sure its from a legit source. Also, before Doug (talonxracer) chimes in, I'm gonna go ahead and tell you his advice he's told others: change your transmission fluid/oil at least every other engine oil change, it'll save you future grinding headaches.

  7. #22
    Registered User AKEP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by logos22 View Post
    Shoot...I kinda had a gut feeling that the synchro was toast. Well, about how much would it cost to repair something like that? Also, would my warranty cover the repair? Is it harmful to my car to just continue driving without fixing it and just shifting slowly into 2nd?
    they wouldn't cover mine under warrantee only because i didn't have proof. i used to work at jiffy lube so i didn't have to pay for anything. so yeah, its possible but you have to fight for it.

    and yeah, by the time you got all that done, then you might as well have bought a used one. i dont like buying used transmission because its too late when you find out it has a messed up 2nd-3rd gear. unless you buy it from a dismantler with a warranty.
    Last edited by AKEP; 12-29-2010 at 12:52 PM.

  8. #23
    Registered User logos22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by USAF EP3 View Post
    By the time you've gotten the transmission case cracked opened, removed the gear(s) and synchro(s) and paid for new gear(s) and syncro(s), you would be better off buying another used transmission in good condition. Of course you need to make sure its from a legit source. Also, before Doug (talonxracer) chimes in, I'm gonna go ahead and tell you his advice he's told others: change your transmission fluid/oil at least every other engine oil change, it'll save you future grinding headaches.
    Would I need to change the gears too? I thought it was just a synchro problem. The grinding is pretty recent too so I don't think the gears should be damaged, right?

  9. #24
    Registered User USAF EP3's Avatar
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    The gears are grinding because the synchros are out. If you're going to replace the synchros, you have to remove the gears too, they're all installed together. Change the affected parts if you're planning on repairing your transmission, you'll thank yourself later when you do. Also, if you're really gung ho about fixing your transmission, I HIGHLY recommend adding a 6th gear from an 06+ Si and/or TSX while you have your transmission taken apart. There's a write up on the forums if you search with a detailed list of what you need for it.

  10. #25
    Registered User AKEP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by USAF EP3 View Post
    The gears are grinding because the synchros are out. If you're going to replace the synchros, you have to remove the gears too, they're all installed together. Change the affected parts if you're planning on repairing your transmission, you'll thank yourself later when you do. Also, if you're really gung ho about fixing your transmission, I HIGHLY recommend adding a 6th gear from an 06+ Si and/or TSX while you have your transmission taken apart. There's a write up on the forums if you search with a detailed list of what you need for it.
    this. you can't even buy the syncros alone, you have to order the sleeve set, which gives you a new gear too. it makes sense. if you wait till feb/march-ish i'll have pics/vids up from when i do mine.

  11. #26
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    Yep there's a reason why you get it as a set. The clutching teeth on the gear and the engaging splines on the sleeve starts to round off when it wears which partially causes the hard shifting and grinding.

  12. #27
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    Well I finally took my car in to the dealer and the mechanic said there was nothing wrong with my synchros. He said that it's normal for there to be a little sound when moving from the smallest gear up. He said that if there was in fact a problem, my 2nd gear would be popping out on me and I would feel the grind in both the shift lever and the clutch pedal. He went on a drive with me and he said that shifting from 1st to 2nd at 3k rpms is a little high and showed me that shifting at 2.5k rpms eliminated the problem completely. Now I haven't had a grind (or what I thought was one) when shifting at 2.5k rpm. There was more to his explanation, but I'm not super familiar with the technical jargon. Part of me didn't really believe him and thought that they were just bullshitting to avoid a repair, but the other part of me is happy that there might not be a problem. Im curious what you guys think. Is there any truth to what he said? Thanks.

  13. #28
    Registered User USAF EP3's Avatar
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    Bullshit.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by logos22 View Post
    ... they were just bullshitting to avoid a repair
    Yes.

  15. #30
    Registered User logos22's Avatar
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    hmm, two people call bullshit so far. Well, at least at 2.5k rpms i don't have a problem anymore. I have no idea why that is the case, but I'm glad I have at least a temporary fix. I also asked them about the warranty and they said that they would have to do the inspection, for which they would charge me $100 or something before they could determine if the trans is covered. So basically I would be backed into a corner to either take the $100 loss or pay them the $700ish for the repair (assuming it wasn't covered). Some people have suggested just getting a used transmission because it would be cheaper than repairing this one. Would riding this one until it's un-driveable and then get a used one be the best move at this point?

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