Reply With QuoteCant wait to hear how it goes and see the results! ;)
These are just the first pics of the TB removed and taken apart. Got it out this morning, and took it to the shop. Will be done this week. Will post the finished pics when its done. Also will be doing a dyno on thurs. after the TB is done. Cheers.:)
Cant wait to hear how it goes and see the results! ;)
good pics-cant wait to see how the throttle body bore job helps out on the dyno and later the track:)
How much ?? Or are you doing it yourself ? Where are you getting the new valve ?
I assume that by valve you mean buterfly. This is part of the job.Originally posted by CgSi
How much ?? Or are you doing it yourself ? Where are you getting the new valve ?
A larger buterfly must be constructed to at least .001" tolerance
in order to get good idle properties. Is what is going to be done
to mine. Along with reducing the bolt heights along the buterfly
mount. (using flat head taper screws instead, less turbulance)
Also a radius along the outer lip. Air just does not like straight edges. A handy rule to remember is the 7 degree rule. Air is happy
when it becomes compressed into smaller diameter AND travels much faster, quicker responce, (pipes), when it is released into larger pipes or vessels it becomes increasingly
turbulent if the walls of the expanding/smaller vessel(pipe) increase/decrease more than 7 degrees from the incomming/outgoing diameter. This is common practice in the HVAC industry as well when transporting huge volumes of air over long distances. Sharpe edges are by far the most disruptive in flow.
the stamp on the buterfly: 625
This pic shows the sealant used by a Honda robot for mass production. This specific robot is used to swipe the inner buterfly wall seal using a rubber compound. This is hondas cheap way to acomplish the same thing. Keeps their costs down on machine tolerances.
I started to label the items on the TB. A little too funky?:D
Last edited by myeverlovinsir; 12-23-2002 at 05:40 PM.
Throttle body components.
Last edited by myeverlovinsir; 12-19-2002 at 05:55 PM.
the 625 stamp on the plate doesn't relate to bore measurement, its just a part number Honda uses in the production process. The stock TB is no more than 62mm in diameter, maybe just a tad smaller if anything. The finished product should be 64mm dead on or maybe a .001 over max.
Glen if you guys need help puttting the cable pulleys back together give me a shot, they are tricky as there are so many parts. You will love the radius Glen puts on these TB's it's gorgeous. They look awesome, and nobody else does that to their TB's.
Why is the TB bore wet ? is that coolant ?, I lost a shitload of coolant when I removed mine, these k20's will leak a lot of fluid if you don't plug the hose or raise it upwards. let me know how it goes.
Joey
Last edited by JSIR; 12-18-2002 at 10:52 AM.
We did measure the inner diameter at the buterfly and your
right, it is 62 mm dead on. But if you measure the outer ring
you will find that it is near 62.7 mm or there abouts. Kind of
a coincidence that the part number is 625. (hmmm)
Yep, thats coolant on it. I actually took apart the TB myself, and
left the cable assy. for Glen to monkey with. I will let you know
if he has probs getting it back together. tks.
Glen
Last edited by myeverlovinsir; 12-18-2002 at 05:53 PM.
Leitner and Bush doing it?
How much is it gonna run you to have it worked on?
W
Will, Glen is having his TB done by Forest and Forest Racing, they are basically domestic race engine builders /machinists, but somehow I talked them into doing Honda TB's for me for a couple years now. They do decent work, biggest problem for them is getting the work into their schedule, these guys are busy all year long, so trying to get the turn around time as low as possible takes some work.
Leitner and Bush do nice work, they are more set up to get parts in and out for guys that live out of town or out of province. Leitner and Bush like to taper their TB's and they polish the surfaces pretty smooth, with Forest and Forest I got them to do smooth radiused end , kind of something I talked them into doing for me and I think it worked out very well. They don't polish their surfaces, I think that is kind of useless, more for show than go, as the TB surfaces are very smooth as they are. hth.
Forest & Forest Racing is doing it. All I can say about price, really depends on your providing the piece to be worked on. If you expect someone else to do your engine work like start from scratch say, then I would expect to pay more. If you do it yourself, and provide the part, it makes the toolmakers job that much easier. Such as removing every component you can, will save you money.
F&F did JSIR's first, so I got to see first hand. Some of the improvements that could be made. Tks.
Glen
Last edited by myeverlovinsir; 12-18-2002 at 05:12 PM.
Originally posted by JSIR
Will, Glen is having his TB done by Forest and Forest Racing, they are basically domestic race engine builders /machinists, but somehow I talked them into doing Honda TB's for me for a couple years now. They do decent work, biggest problem for them is getting the work into their schedule, these guys are busy all year long, so trying to get the turn around time as low as possible takes some work.
Leitner and Bush do nice work, they are more set up to get parts in and out for guys that live out of town or out of province. Leitner and Bush like to taper their TB's and they polish the surfaces pretty smooth, with Forest and Forest I got them to do smooth radiused end , kind of something I talked them into doing for me and I think it worked out very well. They don't polish their surfaces, I think that is kind of useless, more for show than go, as the TB surfaces are very smooth as they are. hth.
Nice, couple of things. I also should mention about the buterfly end stop. This part is also going to be precision ground to make the WOT be completely perpendicular to incomming air. One thing that was also noted lacking in the stock setup. Along with this is included the couter sunk screws to provide even less dc along the buterfly. Quite an involved job. so my origional estimate of 4 hours easily turns in to a couple of days. ;) Will have the pics of the completed job tommorow. tks:D
AnD, of course the numbers for your stock TPS. when removed from the car. should be close to these if you do this work. Needless to say that you need them in order to realign the TPS on the TB chassis so that the resistance is the same. (or very close)
pins 1 and 2 total resistance = 0.93 KOhms
pins 1 and 3 total resistance = 5.59 KOhms
pins 2 and 3 total resistance = 5.40 KOhms
myeverlovin...SiR:p
http://147.208.133.90/pixami/ImageSe...=1040260513370
Last edited by myeverlovinsir; 12-18-2002 at 09:06 PM.
GREAT post, another sticky! :) --Joe.
BTW: just dropping in for a bit SQL training is a biatch!--see everyone tomorrow night... --:)
Well I got things done today, am very happy.
The pics of the finished product.
Notice the nice taper, Glen does great work.
64 dead on.
counter sunk screws for less drag.
Perpendicular buterfly now.
Ground end stop for getting to perpendicular.
The stock buterfly is oblong, here are the measurements.
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