Now for the numbers!
Did a few runs, with and without ground cables, found no benifit
on my ride, but every engine is different to some degree.
Best run was 154.2hp and 133.9 tq. all were very consistant.
The lower pic compares the previous runs to the top one in red.
To show the gains.
Compared to my last runs I am up 6.4 hp and 5.4 tq. This is not
using the correction factor for my previous best run which was .99
So the actual gains are even higher. I can say safely that by adding a new TB, you should easily gain 5whp and 5tq.
The plot came out faint, this is the best pic I have that
shows a good comparison of before and after the TB.
Hardest part was realigning the tps, rest was simpler mechanically. Found that 1 or 2 ohms off and you could be fudgin the engine, like getting engine lights and poor response, etc.
When I read .93k ohms between pins 1 and 2 and only then did my engine run correctly. hth
myeverlovin...SiR:D
Merry xmas. Gonna wait till spring to spring it. someone will do this again, so hope this post helps. tks.:)
Last edited by myeverlovinsir; 12-19-2002 at 08:18 PM.
I love that radius/taper they put on those TB's. Good work as expected. Glen I guess that butterfly was 62.5 mm afterall , but it is larger in height because it sits in the bore on an angle. The width is less than 62mm on the stock bore which I thought was right. So we got about 2.5mm increase on the bore most likely. Hey , great numbers Glen, looks like these engines really like this mod. , good torque, I want that much now. !
:D
There was a couple of guys who ran before me in a prelude SR.
Ended up with 153 and 125. I went to crappy tire and came back they were still waiting around to see me run. The SiR attracts all importers. Love this engine. can't wait to boost it or charge it. Am leaning in the charge direction and think this is gonna get the most worry free HP compared to turbo. I hate having to live under a hood. Have seen good results from chargers as long as you stay beneath the recommended boost. 6 or 8 psi would be great. Thanks again Joey for the heads up and will prolly see you in the new year, still tweakin away. Glen
Congrats on the dyno results. You're top dog of power for EPHatchers once again! (NA power, at least)
Is the before and after with just the TB or with both the TB and Hondata gasket? How much did it end up costing you and how hard is it to find a reputable shop that can perform this operation? I really appreciate you posting this. Very informative.
SWEET numbers!!great job!!!-- Im sorry but how hard was it to reset the tps sensor? -- if you posted this answer just let me know, if not, would you be intrested in posting how to or refrencing where i can find out .. thanks-joe :)
edit btw:
your last dyno runs were with I/H/E ? right?
these runs were with. I/H/E hondata heatshield gasket, and bored tb, and grounding cables?
just want to clarify things.....
Last edited by 02blksi; 12-20-2002 at 06:40 AM.
This time round I had a chance to play with ground cables on the dyno, tried a few diff. connection points on 3 separate runs. I found that it did not benifit me, as I said. The above dyno comparison is with the i/h/e and tb and heatshield but no additional ground cables. Think my stock grounds are holding up well. Previous runs were with i/h/e only. The TB makes alot of diff. and the heatshield is benificial in not heating up your manifold to some power robbing temperature, this is the only way you would gain power from the heatshield gasket.
Joe, the tps is something that is tricky, even for an experienced mechanic. The tps stock screws dont allow you to simply unscrew them, (peened on). Slots were cut along each screw head to make everything adj. with a flathead screwdriver. This allows you to rotate the tps back into the proper resistance settings once on the car and make adj. on the fly. Get it as close to the stock readings on the workbench before putting it in.
Finding a good shop to do this work is key. ;)
Last edited by myeverlovinsir; 10-26-2003 at 02:42 PM.
GREAT info... one last thing...
what are the OEM specs. for the resistance on those pins?
OR is it pretty much a car to car thing?
--thanks --Joe :)
First page Joe. Those are the stock and/or OEM numbers. I imagine this is what you would get if you went out to your car and took the readings yourself. (Comparison would be great). When you take yours off to do this job, you will have to determine what the resistance is, but I would be surprised if they were way off from mine. What I can surmise is that the 1-2 pin resistance is most critical, it tells the ECU when the TB is completely closed. Found that higher/lower resistances between these 2 pins would create a challenge to the ECU to keep idle.
Whatever they are you must record them in order to have a reference when you mount it again. Your right it is a car to car thing, and don't just assume that these numbers are gospel. Just what I found to be on my ride.
actually the top dog in the power department has been Miamijdm so far naturally aspirated, he hit just over 157 whp with short ram intake, HP header, 2.25" custom midpipe. I believe torque was 129.5 ft lbs. He also went on to get huge power with NOS on that setup. Haven't heard much from him since then though.
Last edited by JSIR; 01-04-2003 at 02:20 PM.
I'm going to have a MILLION questions to ask you guys, when I decide to bore my TB. Nice work Glen!!
What is the diameter of the cold air intake pipe you have? It looks a lot smaller than the throttle body.
Our bored throttle body testing on two engines has had mixed results. One showed no change (this was a 205 HP type R engine), the other showed a 5Hp increase.
Glen is running the AEM CAI system , not sure the diameter, probably 2.75 inches which is about 69mm. The TB's we are using are 64mm at the butterfly and about 66mm at the leading edge. Both Glen (myeverlovinsir) and I gained about the same hp with our throttle bodies , same vehicle , same mods (with exception of the Hondata intake gasket) , and the same shop did our TB work. Seems like 6 whp was pretty much the gain on both of our engines, and we gained power at all rpms over 3000 rpms without any loss on bottom end. Glen did add the Hondata manifold gasket since his earlier dyno runs but I doubt it showed any gains in this frigid weather we are now having up here as the manifold barely heats up this time of the year.
That is strange that a higher output k20 motor doesn't gain any more power with a bigger TB , but our lower powered EP motors really seem to like it. Another strange twist to tuning these k20 motors.
Last edited by JSIR; 12-22-2002 at 09:44 PM.
JSIR, I never saw a dyno from Miamijdm but I could add that I have not seen anyone here put down more tq. yet. Not sure what Miamijdm reported in tq.?? I am also running the DC header with a reinforced baffle plate to keep the torque up.
Kind of strange how hondata testing has been showing similar gains on the stock components, (152 and 131) wonder how much of that will carry through to the I/H/E setup? Interesting that Hondata is including a TB mod in their tunning. I'm looking forward to the results guys.
Glen, Miamijdm was putting down 129 ft lbs torque, so yes you are the king of torque !. I think the AEM and DC Header combine for good mid range torque for sure.
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