FYI the spherical bushings are non SCCA solo kosher. "Suspension bushings may be replaced with bushings of any materials(except metal)as long as they fit in the original location. In a replacement bushing the amount of metal relative to the amount of nonmetallic material may not be increased. This does not authorize a change in type of bushing (for example ball and socket replacing a cylindrical bushing), or use of a bushing with an angled hole whose direction differs from that of the original bushing. If the Stock bushing accommodated multi-axis motion via compliance of the component material(s), the replacement bushing may not be changed to accommodate such motion via a change in bushing type, for example to a spherical bearing or similar component involving internal moving parts."
They will automaticlly put you in Prepared catagory..
Last edited by Tougeep3; 12-30-2010 at 11:09 PM.
i actually just had the ES ones installed on my car today. They feel great. Mind you I only have about 45km on them so far, but much much better than before.
+1 for the Mugen compliance bushings.
ES bushings work ok for me. I spray them every now and then, mostly just to get the crud off of them.
I'm not on a dirt road anymore, and I think that would be a concern based on what Talon is saying. I agree and think all movable parts should be booted and packed with grease.
I'm sure Hard rubber or new ones would work good too.
I would be quite concerned about metal spherical bearings. It's going to be crazy noisy, and if it fails I wonder if it will just snap. (vs tear)
Last edited by i02si; 12-10-2008 at 03:41 PM.
The very real issue is for the northerners who happen to drive in the winter due to the salt and cinder laden melt water, when the water evaps, the remaining salt residue will eat up the ES bushings.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
I think mine need to be replaced too, wondering how to DIY.
Did mine.
1. Bought replacement LCA's and have the bushings pushed in.
2. After removing the wheel and tied the brake caliper out of the way and removed the rotor for access.
3. Disconnected front swaybar Endlink.
4. Used ball joint tool and after removing pin freed the LCA from the Knuckle.
5. Two bolts and remove LCA.
-The ES bushings were thicker and took time to wiggle into place.
-I didn't reinstall my front endlinks, as I ended up taking off the front sway.
-Must use new castle nut and pin, the balljoint tool f#$'d up the old one.
-Had the car re-aligned afterwards.
-Torque the bolts with the suspension rasied into the right place. (using a jack to push it up.) Check torque after 20 miles.
I haven't done the rears yet, and I'm not looking forward to it. It looks more involved.
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