Full Race Turbo Coming Up...Need HELP with Parts List

[urthworm]

A vacuum block would help. and i dont think you will need a inline fuel pump for 400whp, i didnt. The walbro 255 should be just fine for the mean time.. i think they are good for around 500, but i never pushed mine that far.

I ran a return line but with the new bosh 1000cc injectors from crsx i was told you dont have to run it.. Ive seen people do it both ways.

Again.. i bought dss axles but i know of an rsx here in town using stockers and making 477whp and his are holding up. I dont know how they would do with slicks though.

I didnt use a catch can.. i just let it vent.

Get a oil fitting for the oil feed and a fitting for the oil pan.. for the return line. Crsx sells those too.

I always went the safe route with my builds but there are always those budget builds that push oem parts to the extreme and some how they hold up..

Oh and i think just a boost gauge is all you will need.

Ive been out of the turbo game for about a year, so if anyone has some updated or newer advice please correct me...

[monjarassi]

A vacuum block would help. and i dont think you will need a inline fuel pump for 400whp, i didnt. The walbro 255 should be just fine for the mean time.. i think they are good for around 500, but i never pushed mine that far.

I ran a return line but with the new bosh 1000cc injectors from crsx i was told you dont have to run it.. Ive seen people do it both ways.

Again.. i bought dss axles but i know of an rsx here in town using stockers and making 477whp and his are holding up. I dont know how they would do with slicks though.

I didnt use a catch can.. i just let it vent.

Get a oil fitting for the oil feed and a fitting for the oil pan.. for the return line. Crsx sells those too.

I always went the safe route with my builds but there are always those budget builds that push oem parts to the extreme and some how they hold up..

Oh and i think just a boost gauge is all you will need.

Ive been out of the turbo game for about a year, so if anyone has some updated or newer advice please correct me...

Agreed...

[MadLorEP3]

A vacuum block would help. and i dont think you will need a inline fuel pump for 400whp, i didnt. The walbro 255 should be just fine for the mean time.. i think they are good for around 500, but i never pushed mine that far.

stoopid question but I know that the amount of HP is determined by amt of boost
but who determines amt of boost, is that the tuner?
Ok so NO INLINE PUMP unless Im going over 450hp...
I ran a return line but with the new bosh 1000cc injectors from crsx i was told you dont have to run it.. Ive seen people do it both ways.

Again.. i bought dss axles but i know of an rsx here in town using stockers and making 477whp and his are holding up. I dont know how they would do with slicks though.

Yeah, I will get the DSS axles, what stg should I go with, Im thinking stg 0 should be fine for me???
I didnt use a catch can.. i just let it vent.

Ok so either catch can or vent is fine???
Get a oil fitting for the oil feed and a fitting for the oil pan.. for the return line. Crsx sells those too.

ok
I always went the safe route with my builds but there are always those budget builds that push oem parts to the extreme and some how they hold up..

Oh and i think just a boost gauge is all you will need.

check...
Ive been out of the turbo game for about a year, so if anyone has some updated or newer advice please correct me...

Agreed...

tnx so much for all the info guys freaking awesome

I found a badass deal on a brand new GT3582R kit everything hpc coated, also comes with buddy club turbo timer and vacuum block $4200 shipped

vs the EFR 7670 single scroll kit i was gonna get for $4900 without any HPC...

[MadLorEP3]

Do you think I should replace my CMC as well
I've reading about people recommending the em2 ex cmc...

[lbk02si]

Yes you need axles at that power! Dss 2.9's would be a good choice as they are rated at 475hp. Cc stg 4 is what full race recommends, I have it and like it a lot! Gauges, go with an a/f gauge (aem uego), boost gauge ( that also shows vacuum), and an oil pressure gauge. Catch can is a must, any brand should be fine. DONT keep your stock fuel line!!!! It's too small for 1000cc injectors! LSD quaife is awesome, I have it and love it. You should probably upgrade your valvetrain too, I used supertech valvesprings and retainers. I'm not sure about the k24's but with the k20z1 @400 whp you are in the neighborhood of needing to build the block. for reliability you should prob go ahead and get a new oem oil pump and water pump, plus new gaskets. Hose clamps, I like the ones nissan dealerships use/sell, ask for their fuel line hose clamps, they are just a better type of hose clamp. Turbo timers are also a good thing to get to make your turbo last longer. Boost controller, I use a greddy profec b, seems pretty simple so far.

[lbk02si]

Also hybrid racing's timing chain tensioner! And toda
Makes a heavy duty timing chain and balancer chain

[MadLorEP3]

Yes you need axles at that power! Dss 2.9's would be a good choice as they are rated at 475hp. Cc stg 4 is what full race recommends, I have it and like it a lot! Gauges, go with an a/f gauge (aem uego), boost gauge ( that also shows vacuum), and an oil pressure gauge. Catch can is a must, any brand should be fine. DONT keep your stock fuel line!!!! It's too small for 1000cc injectors! LSD quaife is awesome, I have it and love it. You should probably upgrade your valvetrain too, I used supertech valvesprings and retainers. I'm not sure about the k24's but with the k20z1 @400 whp you are in the neighborhood of needing to build the block. for reliability you should prob go ahead and get a new oem oil pump and water pump, plus new gaskets. Hose clamps, I like the ones nissan dealerships use/sell, ask for their fuel line hose clamps, they are just a better type of hose clamp. Turbo timers are also a good thing to get to make your turbo last longer. Boost controller, I use a greddy profec b, seems pretty simple so far.

DSS 2.9 check
a/f, boost (that shows vacuum), oil pressure gauge check
Do I need to upgrade my valvetrain, block, oil pump, water pump, now, I kinda wanted to keep the internals stock at least till after the summer, I think it should be fine since I only drive the ep once a month if that, probably less
I will be getting the Buddy club secu turbo timer and the hondata solenoid boost controller

Also hybrid racing's timing chain tensioner! And toda
Makes a heavy duty timing chain and balancer chain

do I need all this now???

tnx for your input bro

[MadLorEP3]

by the way, can I still run with my jdm front rebar or will that have to go?
Also, do I have to cut the bottom grill off my jdm front bumper?

[urthworm]

a/f are controlled on hondata so a gauge is a waste if you ask me. And i had 2 bad experiences with oil pressure gauges so id never buy one again.. ever.. even if there was a fire! (sorry just watched step brothers)

Valve train should be just fine unless your running aftermarket cams or reving the shit out of it.. and i say push the stock block as far as you want cause ive seen k24a2 and k20a2 in the 500whp range. If you blow it its just a good reason to build it.

Timing chain tenshioner is a good idea mainly for peace of mind.

I ran stock fuel lines on 1000cc just fine.. of couse the return line was aftermarket.

Quaife is the shit but if you can find a z1 lsd it will do just fine and save you alil cash.

I had the 2.9 dss axles and they never broke but like i said.. oem can last longer than you think.

quick story.. me and a friend both did turbo builds.. i did what everyone said to do to make it safe and he cut corners.. long story short his car ran better and longer than mine.

One more thing... your tune is going to be one of the most important parts of this build. Id probably still have a turbo ep if i could have found a good tuner in my area.

Im just telling you what i know from experience.

Cutting the rebar and bumper will depend on the size of intercooler.. i had to cut/trim mine with the full race intercooler.

[MadLorEP3]

a/f are controlled on hondata so a gauge is a waste if you ask me. And i had 2 bad experiences with oil pressure gauges so id never buy one again.. ever.. even if there was a fire! (sorry just watched step brothers)

ok so no need for a/f and oil gauges,

Valve train should be just fine unless your running aftermarket cams or reving the shit out of it.. and i say push the stock block as far as you want cause ive seen k24a2 and k20a2 in the 500whp range. If you blow it its just a good reason to build it.


sounds like a plan...


Timing chain tenshioner is a good idea mainly for peace of mind.


what brand chain tensioner should I get? did you mean the hybrid racing one? or an oem one?


I ran stock fuel lines on 1000cc just fine.. of couse the return line was aftermarket.


Quaife is the shit but if you can find a z1 lsd it will do just fine and save you alil cash.

I'll see if I can find one but i can get BNIB quaife for $750

I had the 2.9 dss axles and they never broke but like i said.. oem can last longer than you think.

ok so I guess since i barely drive the car I can stick with oem for now

quick story.. me and a friend both did turbo builds.. i did what everyone said to do to make it safe and he cut corners.. long story short his car ran better and longer than mine.

One more thing... your tune is going to be one of the most important parts of this build. Id probably still have a turbo ep if i could have found a good tuner in my area.

Im just telling you what i know from experience.

tnx for the insight bro...I will go to palmerblock at church for my next tune...


Cutting the rebar and bumper will depend on the size of intercooler.. i had to cut/trim mine with the full race intercooler.

Ok I guess I'll find out when I get it

[RHCP0801]

the only timing chain tensioner i would get is hybrid racing, its more expensive than all the others but well worth it from what i have heard, but they are always sold out so order that way in advance if you want it by the time you start the turbo build....i think they had some just come in stock like 2 days ago

[lbk02si]

a/f are controlled on hondata so a gauge is a waste if you ask me. And i had 2 bad experiences with oil pressure gauges so id never buy one again.. ever.. even if there was a fire! (sorry just watched step brothers)

Valve train should be just fine unless your running aftermarket cams or reving the shit out of it.. and i say push the stock block as far as you want cause ive seen k24a2 and k20a2 in the 500whp range. If you blow it its just a good reason to build it.

Timing chain tenshioner is a good idea mainly for peace of mind.

I ran stock fuel lines on 1000cc just fine.. of couse the return line was aftermarket.

Quaife is the shit but if you can find a z1 lsd it will do just fine and save you alil cash.

I had the 2.9 dss axles and they never broke but like i said.. oem can last longer than you think.

quick story.. me and a friend both did turbo builds.. i did what everyone said to do to make it safe and he cut corners.. long story short his car ran better and longer than mine.

One more thing... your tune is going to be one of the most important parts of this build. Id probably still have a turbo ep if i could have found a good tuner in my area.

Im just telling you what i know from experience.

Cutting the rebar and bumper will depend on the size of intercooler.. i had to cut/trim mine with the full race intercooler.

yes kpro controls a/f . the point of a gauge isn't to control anything its to monitor and warn you of dangerous conditions. an A/F gauge is an absolutely useful tool that can prevent damage to your engine. thats why you keep an eye on it during WOT and if you are leaning out you know to immediately back off the throttle.

z1 lsd???? they didn't come with an lsd

and he's ABSOLUTELY RIGHT about the tune!!! don't skimp on this at all man! i love how strong my car is now and i totally attribute it to the shop that did the tune!

[lbk02si]

DSS 2.9 check
a/f, boost (that shows vacuum), oil pressure gauge check
Do I need to upgrade my valvetrain, block, oil pump, water pump, now, I kinda wanted to keep the internals stock at least till after the summer, I think it should be fine since I only drive the ep once a month if that, probably less
I will be getting the Buddy club secu turbo timer and the hondata solenoid boost controller




do I need all this now???

tnx for your input bro

honestly if you do it all at the same time you'll probably save money in the long run, unless you are doing all the work yourself. but even then i consider all these neccesary items for a build like this. your build is virtually the exact same as mine except for the motor.

upgrading your valve train is a good idea if anything just in case you shift to the wrong gear. i would do the oil pump, and water pump now just for reliability and safety precautions. Like i said, i'm not sure of what the bottom end of a K24 is capable of handling, but if you can i would get the bottom end built. The buddy club turbo timer is what i went with as well and i like it so far. and yes i would DEFINITELY do the HR time chain tensioner and timing chain now. It would suck to do all the work turbo'ing it and then having something as small as a timing chain or tensioner failure ruin the motor.

[lbk02si]

by the way, can I still run with my jdm front rebar or will that have to go?
Also, do I have to cut the bottom grill off my jdm front bumper?

not sure about the jdm rebar, i just modified my usdm rebar to fit my jdm front bumper, but i don't believe they had to touch it in order to install the turbo. no you don't have to cut the bottom grill off, but it's going to be a tight fit.

[Guardian]

i didnt read this whole thread, too much rumor.

All you'll NEED for 400whp is injectors, get dw 1000s, intank walbro or the dw pump. 3+ map sensor, boost controller, exhaust, clutch, dont expect stage 4 to last long on 400. for a rats nest engine bay a vac block will help clean it up a bit, but if you really want it to look good tap the bottom of the im. Gauges, get at least a boost gauge, if you get a af gauge get a wideband or you can monitor af on your cpu. you will also need some vac line..

toda tct is a joke
you dont need a return for that power. and if you do, you definitely dont also need a inline pump or a second fuel filter.
No you CANT run a jdm rebar and you will need to cut the bumper and cant run fogs.
for your exhaust you will need to mod the cb to mate up, fr dp is v-band, that exhaust is 3bolt and i think its reduced to 2.5 where is bolts up anyways.
run a TRUE 3in kteller set up with a muffer of your liking or no muffler at all like someone i know
you do not need a fuel rail.
you do not need axles, it took me a shit load of lunches on slick with a twin disk making 500+whp to break a stockie. now i have type s axles and they are even stronger.. stronger then those dss axles too.
if you want to really rack up that credit card get some straight cut gears, cause they will break more then anything else over 400whp

edit: oh and those are good plugs, gap them down a bit though