Full Race Turbo Coming Up...Need HELP with Parts List

[urthworm]

z1 lsd???? they didn't come with an lsd

Sorry ment z3..

And an a/f gauge isnt a bad idea, but this shit can add up so if you dont have the money for it right away dont worry about it.

And yeah what guardian said.

[Guardian]

Also you will need to re route your heater hoses or get rid of them. You will also need to heat wrap any wires close to heat or re route them away from it

[lbk02si]

Sorry ment z3..

And an a/f gauge isnt a bad idea, but this shit can add up so if you dont have the money for it right away dont worry about it.

And yeah what guardian said.

Is the z3 LSD a viscous type? But yea you could save some money doing that! IMO though, builds on this level shouldn't be started until you have everything you need, bc in the end you are just risking your motor. BUT since this isn't his dd, he might be ok.

[MadLorEP3]

the only timing chain tensioner i would get is hybrid racing, its more expensive than all the others but well worth it from what i have heard, but they are always sold out so order that way in advance if you want it by the time you start the turbo build....i think they had some just come in stock like 2 days ago

Ill get this tnx

yes kpro controls a/f . the point of a gauge isn't to control anything its to monitor and warn you of dangerous conditions. an A/F gauge is an absolutely useful tool that can prevent damage to your engine. thats why you keep an eye on it during WOT and if you are leaning out you know to immediately back off the throttle.

ok so still get an a/f gauge
have you guys heard of any nav/cd palyers that can also function as gauges, that would be the shit
i dont have a radio anymore just a block off plate. Im planning on putting gauges in this location.


z1 lsd???? they didn't come with an lsd

and he's ABSOLUTELY RIGHT about the tune!!! don't skimp on this at all man! i love how strong my car is now and i totally attribute it to the shop that did the tune!

yup wasnt planning to skip out on the tune...tnx...palmerblock Church...local or Do it Dyno iin LBC

honestly if you do it all at the same time you'll probably save money in the long run, unless you are doing all the work yourself. but even then i consider all these neccesary items for a build like this. your build is virtually the exact same as mine except for the motor.

upgrading your valve train is a good idea if anything just in case you shift to the wrong gear. i would do the oil pump, and water pump now just for reliability and safety precautions. Like i said, i'm not sure of what the bottom end of a K24 is capable of handling, but if you can i would get the bottom end built. The buddy club turbo timer is what i went with as well and i like it so far. and yes i would DEFINITELY do the HR time chain tensioner and timing chain now. It would suck to do all the work turbo'ing it and then having something as small as a timing chain or tensioner failure ruin the motor.

So I was thinking based on readings:
1. k20a2 oil pump (does it matter what year, brand new or used???)
2. New TSX timing chain
3. HR racing tensioner
4. Supertech valves springs and retainers ($250 shipped but not sure what weight springs, still on stock cams now.)
5. water pump (for ep or tsx???)

not sure about the jdm rebar, i just modified my usdm rebar to fit my jdm front bumper, but i don't believe they had to touch it in order to install the turbo. no you don't have to cut the bottom grill off, but it's going to be a tight fit.

ok

i didnt read this whole thread, too much rumor.

All you'll NEED for 400whp is injectors, get dw 1000s, intank walbro or the dw pump. 3+ map sensor, boost controller, exhaust, clutch, dont expect stage 4 to last long on 400. for a rats nest engine bay a vac block will help clean it up a bit, but if you really want it to look good tap the bottom of the im. Gauges, get at least a boost gauge, if you get a af gauge get a wideband or you can monitor af on your cpu. you will also need some vac line..


tap bottom of mani sounds like a plan
ill get the intank walbro
Yeah I will get the aem uego a/f gauge, not sure what brand of boost gauge to get yet


toda tct is a joke
you dont need a return for that power. and if you do, you definitely dont also need a inline pump or a second fuel filter.

ok so no more bosch inline pump
wasnt planning on the 2nd filter

No you CANT run a jdm rebar and you will need to cut the bumper and cant run fogs.
for your exhaust you will need to mod the cb to mate up, fr dp is v-band, that exhaust is 3bolt and i think its reduced to 2.5 where is bolts up anyways.
run a TRUE 3in kteller set up with a muffer of your liking or no muffler at all like someone i know

i guess ill sell my rebar
ok was gonna get jdm fogs but not anymore
so it wont be 3" at this connection
I will look into kteller


you do not need a fuel rail.
you do not need axles, it took me a shit load of lunches on slick with a twin disk making 500+whp to break a stockie. now i have type s axles and they are even stronger.. stronger then those dss axles too.

yeah so type s axles stronger than DSS...damn DSS go for like $800 stg 2.9...Ill save money by going type s
what year, or all same???
anything else besides dc5 axles that I would need to mate onto my ep???
I saw a set for $100


if you want to really rack up that credit card get some straight cut gears, cause they will break more then anything else over 400whp

No more credit cards, had 3, paid them off, only have 1 now with a low limit...just rocking my atm card now...Dont wanna fuck with debt no more...str8 cut gears too rich for my blood


edit: oh and those are good plugs, gap them down a bit though

what plugs???

[MadLorEP3]

Sorry ment z3..

And an a/f gauge isnt a bad idea, but this shit can add up so if you dont have the money for it right away dont worry about it.

And yeah what guardian said.

ok i guess ill get whatever is necessary now and just go from there
budget is about 10k for parts...damn this shit is adding up real quick...

Also you will need to re route your heater hoses or get rid of them. You will also need to heat wrap any wires close to heat or re route them away from it

Ill get that gold wrap that Ive seen people use and reroute as well

Is the z3 LSD a viscous type? But yea you could save some money doing that! IMO though, builds on this level shouldn't be started until you have everything you need, bc in the end you are just risking your motor. BUT since this isn't his dd, he might be ok.

yeah not daily
less than 500 miles in 2010...47k on old ep motor...even less on this new one

[MadLorEP3]

also contemplating deleting abs

is this stoopid

alot of turbo'd crsx guys do it...although not so sure if they do it to their dd

[lbk02si]

Not necessarily saying guardian is wrong but I find it very hard to believe type s axles are stronger than dss 2.9's

[urthworm]

Ive had to send my driver side dss axle back twice because it was making poping noises and now my passenger side is doing it.. And ive never even ran slicks on them. Before you spend 600ish on axles just stick with your stockers.

[Canuck Civic]

Aren't type-s axles 28mm and the Ep3's are 26mm? If your talking about the DSS making sounds I thought you could send it back and they fixed that issue.

[Siborg]

I put my stock axles back in after I got tired of the vibration from the 2.9's. Sent them back to be replaced/fixed. re-installed, vibration was less but still bothered me so stock axles it is....Huge waste for the price in my opinion. Axle splines are different between type-s and ep3/base rsx, so you will need to change hubs unless you have a type-s 5 lug conversion already.

[MadLorEP3]

tnx everyone
so at this point fuck dss axles
and i will stick with oem for now
and just get the rsx-s axles later, so I will just need type s hubs as well no need for rsx-s lcas



tnx again

got a badass deal on the turbo
should be in by next week...

[MadLorEP3]

so what about deleting ABS
yay or nay???

[lbk02si]

so what about deleting ABS
yay or nay???

I can think of good reasons for both. I think in the end it's gonna be personal preference due to what exactly you'll be using the car for.

[MadLorEP3]

yeah your right...
fuck it I'll just relocate the bastard...I was just being lazy

[urthworm]

Aren't type-s axles 28mm and the Ep3's are 26mm? If your talking about the DSS making sounds I thought you could send it back and they fixed that issue.

they have a one year warranty.. but who wants to keep sending that shit back every year. Im sending this last one in and if it starts popping again than im going back to stock.. Plus i dont even need them since im all motor now (well i dont think i ever needed them)