Reply With QuoteThe twinloop will be just fine. Check out the stickied Exhaust clips in this section.Originally Posted by whatsvtec
A couple of summers ago we all got together. It'd be good to get together soon again. I am LONG LONG overdue to pick up some rims from Matt aka Ballz716 (hopefully he isn't mad, but I've been broke this winter).
That intake was installed on a RSX not too long ago from what I remember and the pics I saw. So that being said, it should have no problem being installed on an Ep3.
The ESMM will be fine. You honestly don't need HUGE rated mm's unless you plan on drag racing alot. The DD guys are always putting them in and then wondering why their car's are shaking so violently at idle. Get those, and a Ingall's torque dampner and call it a day.
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The twinloop will be just fine. Check out the stickied Exhaust clips in this section.
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exactly what i have and im boosted at 303 have no wheel hop ever
I just recently installed that same exhaust and it sounds decent deep loud sound and went in well... Cant complain for 110 bucks, its pointed to the right... Except that mine is touching my bumper so imma try to fix it... Another bad thing is since im lowered im practically dragging along my midpipe
the reflash price goes towards kpro, which you will need for the k24a2. i'd feel better shelling out for the reflash for now, and paying the rest on kpro. instead of just dumping 900$ on it like i did. either way, the ecu was by far the best thing i've ever bought.
That's what I had planned on doing to control the wheel hop. Who in their right mind likes racing in a straight line all day?
I'll keep looking for info on the 3" intake fitment. I want to guarantee it before I make the investment.(as little as it may be)
Sweeet, love to hear it from a second source. On a semi related issue, do strut bar's really do much work? Or is the support that goes on the firewall from the dc5 better for stiffening up the front end chassis?
I'm riding 4x4 currently so no worries about midpipe drag. If the exhaust hangs funny I'm sure with a hose clamp or some welding work I can get it to sit fine. I'm scared of going that low after test driving a dropped ep. It "bounced all over the road like a fucking pogo stick".
Definitely keeping that in mind. It seems worth it (and I want the quickness too), but I'm not sure I could have my car out of commission for a few days, not atleast till school in the fall. I plan on having this egg forever, so the build progress will be slow.
STM.......aka Emery.......aka "The Ricer". Oh, and most of Rochester's automotive enthusiasts as well. I think it's because we have NYIRP nearby.....
Found a newer thread with the exact same info as the one I remember, but this guy's doing it a little........different. Although the tape will hold up, I highly suggest a plug of some sort. If you resort to this guys.......MAF fix (aka the tape), just make sure to put heat wrap all around it to hide the tape. That way you'll save yourself the embarrassment if somebody sees it.I'll keep looking for info on the 3" intake fitment. I want to guarantee it before I make the investment.(as little as it may be)
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=754314
They'll work. In the amount of time I've been on this forum there have been a handful of guys who've just used the ESMM's and the torque dampner. You won't have any problems with a bolt on a3 and damaging the ESMM or the torque dampner.Sweeet, love to hear it from a second source. On a semi related issue, do strut bar's really do much work? Or is the support that goes on the firewall from the dc5 better for stiffening up the front end chassis?
The strut bars don't do much. They add a tiny bit of stiffness up front. Not really enough to worry about.
You can NOT use a DC5 bar that has the firewall bolt holes. It WILL NOT work. We don't that on our Ep3s. You also can not use the Mugen front bar as it will hit your master cylinder.
The Tsudo aka ebay exhaust will be fine. Just get longer axle back hangers if needed.I'm riding 4x4 currently so no worries about midpipe drag. If the exhaust hangs funny I'm sure with a hose clamp or some welding work I can get it to sit fine. I'm scared of going that low after test driving a dropped ep. It "bounced all over the road like a fucking pogo stick".
The Rokker or Raceland USA (same suspension) suspension isn't too bad actually if you are considering a cheap suspension. There's a load of guys on here running them. Just do a search.
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I've never been a fan of index racing. I'm thinking you're right about NYIRP too, unfortunately. I'd love to get in at watkins. Or even take my car around the Genesee Valley Kart track.
WTF is going on with the tape on that intake?
Not cheaping out on suspension or brakes! That's my livelihood at stake right there. I wanna do wilwood all around, 4 pot up front and the beefy 1 pot rears. Suspension is gonna probably be the Buddy Club RSD. If I decide cheaper to go than that, it'll be the a-spec suspension.You can NOT use a DC5 bar that has the firewall bolt holes. It WILL NOT work. We don't that on our Ep3s. You also can not use the Mugen front bar as it will hit your master cylinder.
The Rokker or Raceland USA (same suspension) suspension isn't too bad actually if you are considering a cheap suspension. There's a load of guys on here running them. Just do a search.
Why won't the bar fit on the firewall?
I'm talking about the lower piece #4, not piece #3.
ebay coil over sleeves are only 45.99 shiped ;)
My life is worth alot more than 50 bucks ;)
Not to mention, handling performance means more to me than horsepower. I like buddy club coils since they can be fixed in the US. A-spec suspension is also on the list because it's meant for the car as an upgrade anyway. Should last 100k miles without any serious abuse
I'm over by Keuka Lake, so I'm right around the corner from Watkins. There's a couple HPDE's coming up in May and Sept. hosted by Chin Motorsports. Cost for us noobs is a bit over $400.I've never been a fan of index racing. I'm thinking you're right about NYIRP too, unfortunately. I'd love to get in at watkins. Or even take my car around the Genesee Valley Kart track.
WTF is going on with the tape on that intake?
Not cheaping out on suspension or brakes! That's my livelihood at stake right there. I wanna do wilwood all around, 4 pot up front and the beefy 1 pot rears. Suspension is gonna probably be the Buddy Club RSD. If I decide cheaper to go than that, it'll be the a-spec suspension.
Why won't the bar fit on the firewall?
I'm talking about the lower piece #4, not piece #3.
I guess he didn't want to make a plug? I'm sure it'll work, but it looks like arse.
A non-coilover system is the way to go for a DD IMO. I'd go back to my Mugen SS if I didn't have my SC400 and GS500 as a DDs now. I agree on the Wilwoods, if I hadn't picked up my Stoptech for $450 out the door, I would have picked up the Wilwood sale that Corsport had/has going on.
The strut bar is #3. If you open your hood, you already have #4. It's under your header.
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That's where my dilemma lies. I really want to turn this into a long-term project for me. It might not be a DD for very long after I upgrade the brakes and suspension. I'm thinking, egay boltons+reflash to get me loving my car again for DD, the master bushing kit should freshen up the suspension for my liking too. By the time I save up for brakes and suspension, I'll already have enough for another car. It would be irresponsible of me to dump that kind of money back into the car just yet. I'd rather buy a dd, then I can afford to tear this down myself and do my work and make this bitch mine.
I was basically asking about strut-bar's to compare stiffness from an aftermarket strut bar or the beefier dc5 lower tie bar
#4(the lower tie bar) on our cars is much thinner than on the 05-06 type-s. I've read good things about replacing it, as well as getting the rear strut bar.
Last edited by whatsvtec; 01-25-2011 at 01:15 PM.
OP...I would recommend that you don't buy anything yet. If you need to buy and that $300+ is itching you then buy something like reflash and then later send it in for k-pro and pay the difference. Even if it was i/h/e on a k20a3 it is not even worth it. I've gone through it and still became power hungry. (Unless if you go cams/vtec killer but that is another story which I believe you won't be headings towards until the future of your k24.). The main point is that if your buying something for your A3, buy something that will be interchangable for your future k24 so that way you won't lose money buying something that you'll have to buy again in a different size.
so the exhaust fits, what about the shorty?
does anyone know how much power on average a shorty and test pipe makes compared to a RH?
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