So when i got my clutch replaced (this weekend) they said my front motor mount (trans. mount) was ripped... so my questions are... Do i need motor mount inserts or all new Motor Mounts? (Seems to me i need all new) Where and what kind of motor mounts do i get? How much should i pay?
thanks for the help!
Ill let someone else confirm but im pretty sure they do say motor mount inserts sort of repair them, it even says it on my box they can be used instead of replacing the mount.
Also if you havint seen it, your more then welcome to go to a pnw ep3 meetup in july we have planned on clubep3 heres a link.
http://forums.clubep3.com/showthread.php?t=751852
The meet sounds awesome! I will be outta state till the 15th...maybe I can make it on the 16th!! :)
I personally took out my OEM Honda Motor Mounts since they where broken and I replaced them myself with some HaSport Motor Mounts. They are very nice. You can choose your stiffness. Mine are the Daily Driver type.
Depends on what kind of money you're looking to spend. I'm looking for a cheap but functional setup with my car. I planned on ESMM and an engine torque dampener. I've heard good reviews from a handful of other members using this setup with no wheel hop. Although the added stiffness on the sides might be better if you're looking to turn corners.
im in on this question too. im planning on doing a k24a2 swap and wanna kno whats the best bang for the buck for the mounts. do they make polyurethane for the stock motor mounts?
A very bad set-up, forget about that worthless torque damper. WHEEL HOP HAS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH ENGINE MOUNTS ! ! ! It is 100% a function of the suspensions spring rate and tire traction! Added stiffness in the turns? FROM WHAT ? Again another 100% suspension item!Originally Posted by whatsvtec
The inserts were DESIGNED and intended as a repair for ripped motor mounts.
The inserts are the best bang for the buck upgrade. The EP3's front and rear mounts are not designed to and DO NOT support any weight, they are intended to control torque roll only.
Last edited by talonXracer; 02-20-2011 at 07:15 AM.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
I was talking about stiffness on the side mounts if he were to go the route of a full motor mount package vs stock side mounts. Since turning corners would in theory put the most stress on the mounts laterally it would seem that a full package would do more good than just inserts. But for a straight line it seems it wouldn't matter.
Last edited by whatsvtec; 02-20-2011 at 07:33 AM.
Your theory is entirely false, THERE IS ZERO lateral stress other than weight transfer. AGAIN, wheel hop has absolutely NOTHING to do with the engine mounts!!!!
The ONLY function of the engine mounts is to isolate the engine vibrations from the rest of the car and retain the engine within the engine bay.
The stockish EP3 suffers from TWO issues that are thought of as wheel hop, the first is the engine rocking BACK and FORTH slamming the engine mounts center bolts against their outer casing(what causes them to rip), the inserts and aftermarket mounts eliminate this and it is not wheel hop just engine movement. The second issue is actual wheel hop which is a loading and unloading of the suspension as the tires gain and loose traction cyclically causing the wheels/suspension to start bouncing between the road and the bump stops. Wheel hop can cause the engine to slam back and forth violently but engine movement can not cause wheel hop
Last edited by talonXracer; 02-20-2011 at 07:57 AM.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
That makes the decision a lot easier then for the OP. Thanks for clearing that up for me as well.
ya thats when were planning it,.. itll be perfect for you, you live there haha
ESMM's are great for the price and for what they are, but if you can afford to get aftermarket mounts i would definitely go with those, i recommend Avid mounts. You will definitely feel the stiffness but you won't crack or tear your mounts anymore.
LI guess I'm keeping my stock mounts and repair the inserts than. Thanks for the reply
There is another alternative that I have used with great success, but requires time and work. That is to sandblast and then really clean the rubber portion of the mounts. open a tube of 3M WindoWeld urethane adhesive and apply to the ripped surfaces and then start filling in the open areas in layers, 3 would work, with at least 1 hour and no more than 2 hours between layers. Make sure it is allowed to cure for several days before use, I like letting them sit on the deck in the sun(summertime) for two days, 6 layers 1/2-1 hour apart should allow for less required post cure(I have not used this schedule but it should work). This provides a very nice front and rear engine mounts. It has a durometer of about 50-55 which is about all you need in those locations. Bad mounts are a dime a dozen so finding one to modify prior to pulling your stockie is a great idea.
Last edited by talonXracer; 02-20-2011 at 03:29 PM.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
That Doug,
"What A Guy"
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