Small/Quick/Common/Dumb Question Thread (use this instead of making new threads)

[ep3jd]

Has anyone ever run 245's for rr/autox up front at stock height? It seems that I get fairly close to rubbing on 225 star specs at stock height on hard corners, so I'd assume that I will definitely rub with 245's, but I just wanted to know who else has run 'em before.

Stock? At least rsx a spec, hfp, or mugen. But, no dude.. You'll be alright. I have 225/45/17x7 +45 only rub when I'm real real into it. AND I'm tucking a solid amount of tire.

[siege911]

Stock? At least rsx a spec, hfp, or mugen. But, no dude.. You'll be alright. I have 225/45/17x7 +45 only rub when I'm real real into it. AND I'm tucking a solid amount of tire.

Yeah, stock height for H-Stock SCCA autox. I just wasn't sure about the fat 245's and how they would work, especially on a 16x6.5 wheel (which I'm required to use per class rules).

[EDU]

so i took off my valve cover today and sent it to get powdercoat. when i pulled it out i noticed that on the gasket on each corner was a lil bit of RTV silicone. im getting a new gasket so my question is: do i really need to put silicone on the corners?? i dont think is necessary but what do you guys think or have done before??
thank you.

[siege911]

so i took off my valve cover today and sent it to get powdercoat. when i pulled it out i noticed that on the gasket on each corner was a lil bit of RTV silicone. im getting a new gasket so my question is: do i really need to put silicone on the corners?? i dont think is necessary but what do you guys think or have done before??
thank you.

Yes, this is definitely required. You put the silicone on the four areas of the head where there are changes in the profile... two marks by the chain and two on the other end, so that it makes a seal and no oil leaks. Make sure you wait at least half an hour (per the service manual, or longer if you want) before starting the car to let the silicone form.

Also make sure you properly torque the VC if you can, there is a sequence to do it in 2 steps so that you distribute the pressure evenly... something really low like 7.4ft-lbs.

[usedep3]

so i took off my valve cover today and sent it to get powdercoat. when i pulled it out i noticed that on the gasket on each corner was a lil bit of RTV silicone. im getting a new gasket so my question is: do i really need to put silicone on the corners?? i dont think is necessary but what do you guys think or have done before??
thank you.

yea, you put hondabond with the gasket. i highly recoomend this stuff:



i've used this in place of hondabond with great success and no issues

[SamuraiSi]

Can I use the regular hatch lift supports with a carbon fiber hatch?

[PatrickJamesYu]

So what exactly will happen if I put my 2.5" GReddy evo2 on a stock midpipe?
will it sound like complete crap?
loss in power?

[ep3jd]

The car will explode

[27rocks]

Can I use the regular hatch lift supports with a carbon fiber hatch?

Yes!

[27rocks]

Who's rigged up something to fix their door props- so they actually stay open when they're propped open? That's not just me dealing with that, right?

I can't believe I've put up with this for over 7 years without trying to fix out in someway.
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My pass side door stays open but the drivers side closes on the slightest hill... go figure right?

[nmysiismyn]

My pass side door stays open but the drivers side closes on the slightest hill... go figure right?

On his part development thread, Charles just posted on this:
He said that he recently found out that they're adjustable in some way. I think I have one laying around from an old door too. If you want, I can LYK how as soon as I do it... LMK
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[BeaterEP]

If you get in there and find they actually are adjustable, DIY thread that bish so we can all fix them!

[nmysiismyn]

If you get in there and find they actually are adjustable, DIY thread that bish so we can all fix them!

Phosho! I thought there'd be something on it in my service manual, but there isn't.

I've been pretty lazy/busy lately, so no promises. It should be easy to get one up though. I replaced my driver's side door a couple of years ago and kept all the parts, so I may have the part off the car already. Time to start diggin' through boxes...
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[27rocks]

I might scan through my PDF service manual to see if there is anything in there in case you missed it, but if you find anything out let us know.

[nmysiismyn]

I might scan through my PDF service manual to see if there is anything in there in case you missed it, but if you find anything out let us know.

Had to go through quite a few boxes, but I found it!
Sadly, it doesn't look adjustable.

It's just two plastic pieces, wedged together and sealed in a galvanized casing. At the thicker parts of the arm, the plastic pieces get opened very little and close back up at the thinner areas. From closed to open, the bar starts off thin and gets thicker, before closing on the mid-way and final so-called "catching points."

The one I have feels stiff, but I know with the leverage from the door, it'll be the same ish.

I'm going to sip a little more coffee, take some pics and try to post them up before I crash out. I'll pry the sealing-tabs open tomorrow.

I sure hope something can be done about it! It drives me nuts! I even dented my door jam last week, wedging a can of brake cleaner in there to hold it open. That's how I've always had to do it, but this time, my door got leaned on...