Best Big brake kit?

[sleepy ep3]

Looking into options. So far, the best deal seems to be the Wilwood setup on Corsport. Any opinions? Budget is $1000 and under. Only looking to upgrade front set for now.

[Zzyzx]

Best for what? Are you trying to stop the car in a shorter distance or are you having heat issues.

[talonXracer]

The best bang for the buck upgrade for brakes would be typeS brakes for the average enthusiast, OEM quality and availability of replacement parts.

[sleepy ep3]

Well, my local track has a very short runoff area. I had trouble stopping in time with the stock rotors with upgraded pads. I'm not really a fan of hitting the sand trap, plus I have a few extra bucks so I figured it was time for an upgrade. I would like any and all opinions, BUT ONLY if you have experience on the subject. I don't want to hear some bullshit that you read in super street because they are trying to sell parts and advertising.

[talonXracer]

what do you mean by "trouble stopping in time", what were the brake symptoms? Did you just loose traction? Did it feel like the pedal hit a stop and wouldnt produce any more braking force? Did the pedal feel like mush?

[sleepy ep3]

what do you mean by "trouble stopping in time", what were the brake symptoms? Did you just loose traction? Did it feel like the pedal hit a stop and wouldnt produce any more braking force? Did the pedal feel like mush?

Pretty much. The pedal wasn't mushy at all, I had a steady firm feel to it, but I just wasn't scrubbing off speed fast enough. I had to combine the e brake and normal braking at the very end of the track. I don't think the stock rotor size and pad contact area are providing enough friction. That's the reason I want to try a larger set up. The Wilwood kit provides a larger rotor and pad, with being compatible with all the stock master cylinder and abs. I would imagine that most kits retain the oe equipment, but the price seems right.

[doubledouble]

Pretty much. The pedal wasn't mushy at all, I had a steady firm feel to it, but I just wasn't scrubbing off speed fast enough. I had to combine the e brake and normal braking at the very end of the track. I don't think the stock rotor size and pad contact area are providing enough friction. That's the reason I want to try a larger set up. The Wilwood kit provides a larger rotor and pad, with being compatible with all the stock master cylinder and abs. I would imagine that most kits retain the oe equipment, but the price seems right.

A lot of poor stopping power has to do with tire choice. What are you running?

[doubledouble]

Pretty much. The pedal wasn't mushy at all, I had a steady firm feel to it, but I just wasn't scrubbing off speed fast enough. I had to combine the e brake and normal braking at the very end of the track. I don't think the stock rotor size and pad contact area are providing enough friction. That's the reason I want to try a larger set up. The Wilwood kit provides a larger rotor and pad, with being compatible with all the stock master cylinder and abs. I would imagine that most kits retain the oe equipment, but the price seems right.

A lot of poor stopping power has to do with tire choice. What are you running?

[talonXracer]

Pretty much. The pedal wasn't mushy at all, I had a steady firm feel to it, but I just wasn't scrubbing off speed fast enough. I had to combine the e brake and normal braking at the very end of the track. I don't think the stock rotor size and pad contact area are providing enough friction. That's the reason I want to try a larger set up. The Wilwood kit provides a larger rotor and pad, with being compatible with all the stock master cylinder and abs. I would imagine that most kits retain the oe equipment, but the price seems right.

Sounds like your pads need upgrading on the first.

sure the willwoods look nice, but you WILL NOT stop ANY QUICKER than the stock brakes, but you will be able to brake at the same level for more than one stop without heating and loosing braking force due to heat soak.

The fact you needed to use the Ebrake to stop indicates to me that you have an unballanced brake system that needs more rear bias, not more front bias.(unless the reduction was heat soak up front)

I think the Willwoods had to be the greatest waste of money of any upgrades that I have done, in fact I have nixed the Willwoods and gone BACK to typeS rotors and calipers !!!!!

[sleepy ep3]

A lot of poor stopping power has to do with tire choice. What are you running?

Falken Azenis 615

[Zzyzx]

Pretty much. The pedal wasn't mushy at all, I had a steady firm feel to it, but I just wasn't scrubbing off speed fast enough. I had to combine the e brake and normal braking at the very end of the track. I don't think the stock rotor size and pad contact area are providing enough friction. That's the reason I want to try a larger set up. The Wilwood kit provides a larger rotor and pad, with being compatible with all the stock master cylinder and abs. I would imagine that most kits retain the oe equipment, but the price seems right.

1st of, Friction is not subject to surface area. Just Pressure and the coefficient of friction of the materials in question.

Otherwise, this sounds like glazed pads & rotors to me.
have the rotors turned & pick up some new pads, and most importantly bed them properly.

Glazing can happen when you don't bed the pads & rotors right or when you push your brake pads past their normal operating temp. and one of the symptoms is longer stopping distances due to reduced friction (crystallized brake pad materiel has a significantly lower coefficient of friction then the materiel has uncrystallized...)

[talonXracer]

1st of, Friction is not subject to surface area. Just Pressure and the coefficient of friction of the materials in question.

Otherwise, this sounds like glazed pads & rotors to me.
have the rotors turned & pick up some new pads, and most importantly bed them properly.

Glazing can happen when you don't bed the pads & rotors right or when you push your brake pads past their normal operating temp. and one of the symptoms is longer stopping distances due to reduced friction (crystallized brake pad materiel has a significantly lower coefficient of friction then the materiel has uncrystallized...)

forget my post(other than not getting willwoods except for bling) and listen to the brake guru when he speaks !

[Zzyzx]

Addendum: Check your brake booster and associated vacuum lines. Replace any that have cracks in them.

[sleepy ep3]

So what your saying is: that a larger brake setup wouldn't help me stop faster? I have a mid-grade set of ebc's on brand new rotors. I bled the brakes properly. What type of material would be the best? BTW RSX-s stuff wont work, as I am still 4 lug

[fobman]

love the looks of big brake kits i wish i can afford one lol