I have read your DIY spare-tire sub box but ran into a hick up. I read that pam cooking spray is a good mold release but after i had let the fiberglass to cure for a few days mainly because i had to work, now i can't pull that sucker out! like every day i come home, i try as hard as i can to pull the mold apart from the spare tire. does anyone have any good ideas as in how i can get the mold off with out breaking it?
had the same issue..I just slowly put pressure down through the holes in the rim and started wiggeling it. It took alot of strength and time..but i managed to get it out. Still have some resine and tape still attached to my spare..but nothing horrible. Just keep giving it pressure and work at it, it will come out eventually.
if you have an air compressor you can try to force it out that way, via air, lots of surface area there. If not oyu may have to useelbow grease or cut it out :(
Made with bits of real panther, so you know it's good.
yaaaaa...pam...not always the best...to be honest im kinda getting tired of people suggesting that people use pam, using wax or real mold release works way better...plus using plastic tape as a pre coating for custom jobs like this...especially where the molding surface wont be visable works great
my ep is white...
- We can talk numbers all you want, but the bullshit stops when the flag drops...
well i hope i can get it out with out breaking it or cutting it. wish me luck....all in all you live and learn.
how did you put pressure through the holes with out cracking it or damaging it?Originally Posted by Jukka
thumbs and a cut down hockey puck..lol...also dropped the wheel on concreat a few times too. I also used a small prybar to pry between the rim and the wood, started cracking it around the edge a few times, then started to push from the bottom. Just take your time and go slowly with it.
I didnt use any release agents at all with mine. I just blue taped the crap out of the panels and pulled it right out when I did my enclosure. But if your having issues chad is right get some air behind the fiberglass and it should pop it out or at least make it a lot easier.
LOL only a Canadian..... 101 used for a hockey puck.
Made with bits of real panther, so you know it's good.
hey guys, i know it's been awhile but had to put the sub-box project on hold because of financial issues but now the car is paid off in full finally!!!!!!!!! i actually was able to get the stupid mold out of the spare tire with some pliers and muscle lol...then re-fiberglassed the mold back onto the MDF board. i just finished sanding it down before i apply another layer of fiberglass. last week i actually got a sweet deal from a buddy of mine and picked up a rockford fosgate P312D4, but now i need your guys help on the dimensions of the box. i went on the rockford fosgate website and got the specs i needed but it doesn't make sense. so please can any one help me?
Last edited by chinoman44; 09-12-2011 at 03:51 PM.
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...item_id=120422
link were the specs are given.
so it's been almost a week and i see that no one has any suggestions..... guys please help me out to do this right??
Friend told me to tell you
"minimum cu ft= 0.75
OPTIMAL cu ft= 1.02
MAXIMUM cu ft= 1.25
what he's looking for is 1.02 cu ft"
sorry I dont spend as much time on here as I used to. hyu is correct for a sealed box per that page. for a vented(ported) box you would want an ideal 1.79cu ft, minimun of 1.5cu ft and a maximum size of 2.0 cu ft with a 4 inch port 10 inches long.
wanted to know if anybody knew the exact size of the spare tire fastening bolt so i can go to home depot and get a hex bolt.....
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