Reply With QuoteUseful info for a sweet and useful mod!
How to: Modify Rigeline/Accord key for the EP3
So, imagine you're like me and are tired of carrying around a seperate key and remote.
What you'll need.
- A Ridgline/Accord key. FCCID is OUCG8D-380H-A, Honda part number is 35111-SHJ-305.
- One of your stock Civic Si keys/A replacement key that contains a transponder that can be
programmed to work with the EP3's engine immobilizer.
- Dremel rotary tool.
- Poster tack, RTV/Silicone sealant, superglue etc (to glue transponder into the new key)
So, here's a rough outline of what you need to do before you start cutting keys apart.
1. Have the Ridgeline key cut. Since you will be disposing of the chip, you do not need to have it programmed. At this point, the key will open your doors but will not start the engine.
2. This is optional only if you are using your current key, but if you bought a new key to cut apart because you don't want to destroy your current key this step is required. Have your extra Civic key cut AND programmed. Having it cut is optional, but once you take the chip out, it will still open your doors. Put it in your wallet and you'll never get locked out of your car again!
3. Cut apart the Civic key around the edges with your Dremel tool. Use a cutting wheel, and it'll come apart like butter and melt right through the plastic. ONLY CUT AROUND THE EDGES, the metal key will protect the chip and its bushing, but if you cut accross the face of the key it might damage the chip. That's an expensive mistake.
This is what it will look like when you're done cutting it apart:
4. Remove the key blade from the plastic cover like so:
5. Remove the vaguely triangular transponder chip bushing from the key blade "bow" handle thing by pressing down on the narrow part of the bushing.
6. The transponder is the little cylinder in the middle of the rubber bushing:
Press the chip out of the bushing with a toothpick, jeweler's screwdriver, etc.
You'll notice that the chip has one end that is transparent and has a small copper coil inside. That's the antenna end, and it will be important in a future step.
7. Finally we get to the actual Ridgeline key. There is a small phillips head screw on the back at the base of the key blade. Remove it with a jeweler's screwdriver.
8. Remove the backplate by angling it up and pulling the cover down towards the direction that the keyblade points. After it is removed, the key will look like this:
The small compartment that I'm pointing at contains the Ridgeline transponder, that since I've already done this once, isn't shown. Since it's absolutely useless, remove it and throw it away.
9. Place the transponder that we liberated from the civic key in steps 5 and 6 into the compartment with the antenna end (transparent dome with copper coil showing) pointing towards the base of the key blade. If you get it backwards, the engine immobilizer might not be able to recognize the chip in the key, and you'll have to tear it apart again and turn the transponder around.
Now that the transponder is in the compartment, you're going to want to find a way to secure it so that it doesn't rattle around. Some other guides suggest RTV or sillicone seal, but I'm cheap, so I used a small blob of poster tack (not shown) pressed into the compartment over the transponder chip. This also has the benefit of making it easier to move the transponder into a different key if you ever break the casing on your Ridgeline key.
10. Replace the back plate by snapping it on and replacing the small phillips head screw, and admire your handywork. Optionally, purchase a FD2 type R backplate, or buy a red honda key emblem from DecalDude like I did. Damn, doesn't that look good. Also, put the now chipless key in your wallet, since it will still open your door. If you lock your keys inside, you won't have to call AAA and stand around in the cold.
Now, to program the remote part of the Ridgeline key:
To program the remotes:
Except where noted, time between steps should not exceed 4 seconds. You may push either the lock or unlock button. Use the same remote for steps 1-13.
Step 1: Turn ignition switch to ON (II)
Step 2: Push remote lock button
Step 3: Turn ignition switch off
Step 4: Turn ignition switch to ON (II)
Step 5: Push remote lock button
Step 6: Turn ignition switch off
Step 7: Turn ignition switch to ON (II)
Step 8: Push remote lock button
Step 9: Turn ignition switch off
Step 10: Turn ignition switch to ON (II)
Step 11: Push remote lock button
Step 12: Confirm that you hear the door locks move
Step 13: Within 8 seconds, press the 1st remote lock button
Step 14: Confirm that you hear the door locks move
Step 15: Within 8 seconds, press the 2nd remote lock button
Step 16: Confirm that you hear the door locks move
Step 17: Within 8 seconds, press the 3rd remote lock button
Step 18: Confirm that you hear the door locks move
Step 19: Turn ignition OFF, and remove key.
Step 20: Confirm that your keyless remotes now work.
Note: To program only one remote, skip steps 15-18. To program only two remotes, skip steps 17 and 18.
Last edited by eccramer; 06-21-2011 at 12:32 AM.
Useful info for a sweet and useful mod!
If I want to reprogram a factory remote for keyless entry, would I use the same steps as you listed below?
yesOriginally Posted by Sameer*
awesome, thank you.
Hello, I Have A Remote With FCC ID: G8D-344H-A
Is There Currently A Model Of Key That Matches This?
Okay, so first off, I'm gonna assume that you left off the "OUC" in OUCG8D-344H-A. Also, I can see that you're from Belfast, so I can't be absolutely sure that anything that applies to USDM also applies to UKDM. But, for these purposes we'll assume it'll apply
The OUCG8D-344H-A is the stock remote for the Civic Si, so it's the same as mine. Any remote with an FCCID of OUCG8D-380H-A also works, as it's the same frequencies, but a slightly different circuit board that's been made smaller to fit into a smaller footprint with a smaller battery. If you can find a remote with FCCID OUCG8D-380H-A it will work.
Here's a couple things you should look out for though. Try to find a remote with 3 buttons (Lock, Unlock, and Panic) instead of the 4 button model (Lock, Unlock, Trunk Open, and Panic). The fourth button is useless to EP3s because it doesn't have the electricals (motors etc) to actuate the hatch release hardware. The 4 button remote will still work, on the EP3 for lock, unlock, and panic, but there's really no reason to have a useless extra button. Secondly, you do have to swap the transponder chip like in the How To above.
Does that answer your questions? If not, post up more and I'll try to answer them.
Well my sticker was worn off my remote so I took the casing off and there was no OUC on it
But that seems to me that it will work, I have a family member with an accord I'll reprogram their spare key to my car and try it first before buying a key
Thanks!
Edit also the uk cars don't have panic buttons, we just carry a hammer lol
Can you use a switchblade type key fob found on VW and such??
Check out the Honda Ridgeline Switchblade key. I think that a guy on Ebay named Artiway makes them with the chips for our cars already installed, so all you have to do is take it to the stealership to get it cut and programmed. Otherwise, the steps to get it to work would be basically the same as with my guide, cut 2 keys, take apart EP3 key and remove transponder, transplant transponder into Ridgeline key, and program remote. The same guts as the key I made above are in it, because the FCCID is OUCG8D-380H-A, so if you want to go with a switchblade key, go with a Ridgeline key.
Well I got ahold of a CRV key for around $12 which is exactly the same, the remote programmed in ok :) just waiting on my replacement blade coming so I can use it
this awesome gonna try it nice... thanks hopes it works ahaha
Programmed as in the remote programmed correctly? Because remember, unless you want to disable your engine immobilizer with KPro, you still have to get a compatible transponder chip programmed for it or else it won't start the car. However, if you got the transponder programmed/have some way of disabling the immobilizer then awesome. And yeah, I've found that these keys are really inexpensive if you know where to look. Anyway, good luck on getting your key working, I hope it all works out!
i got a ridgeline one piece key plus a 2 pack of oem replacement plain keys:) one as a spare and one to steal the immobilizer out of.
and now i can't find a dealership that won't rape me for cutting and programming.. only time i've ever been upset with honda!
I lucked out on that. Honda in Renton, WA did the program for free, and I got the cut for 10 bucks a key.
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