Rear brake line allignment

[Popeye]

So I just replaced the pads in the rear. Havent even taken the car for a drive. I noticed on the 2nd side, the right side, after having done the left alrady, that there is apparently an allignment you have to do with the brake line when reinstalling. Ibe never seen this design before, so I am just making sure I did it correctly.
When I re-installed the brake lines, I lined up the yellow marking on the bolt to the yellow marking where the bolt went it. What's weird is it doesnt look like that actual hole inside the bolt lined up with the brake line hole.
Did I do it right by lining up the yellow marking when reinstalling?
After replacing, while pumping my brakes, the pedal feels considerably stiffer than before. Again, not being familiar with this car yet, Im not sure what its SUPPOSED to feel like. I guess I will find out when I test drive it here in just a minute.
Any help/suggestions/advice would be very much appreciated!
::EDIT:: I just took it for a drive. The pedal softened back up. BUT, my right rear is now smelling like its burning brake fluid, and when I bent down to smell it, I got a whoosh of hot air.
Any ideas? Is it safe to drive? Its kinda late tonight, and I have to go to school tomorrow. (School is about 30 minutes away, over a mountain.)
::EDIT AGAIN:: Here's the deal...right rear seems to be dragging the rotor a little bit. In other words, in neautral, it sounds like it's scraping. That side works, just seems like it needs some sort of an adjustment. How can I do that? Do I just take the caliper back off, and turn the piston a couple more times? It seems to me like thats what I could so. Im going to go try that right now, but wanted to write this in case someone knows exactly whats wrong.
Thanks again ya'll!

[Twisted-X]

The manual says that when you change the rear pads you're supposed to slacken the e-brake cable, push down the brake pedal to set some kind of pin in the rear calipers, then re-tighten cable. Might be worth a shot.

The E-brake cable can be accessed by removing rear part of the center console. Two screws on the outside in the lower back, and two on the inside under the piece of felt.

The brake pedal will be rock-hard until you turn the car on and the brake booster gets vacuum from the engine.

[Popeye]

It looks like I got it figured out. I went in and turned the piston counter clockwise about half a turn. It still scraped a LITTLE, but so did the other side. Most cars I have chaged the pads on will do that just a tiny bit. Also did the ABS brake bleed thing that people were talking about. After doing all of that, I took it for another drive. Worked just fine then. Stopped in each gear. Ended up stopping at about 50 in 5th. Everything works fine. Brakes even work a tiny bit better than when I first changed them. Definately feels like new brakes! Hahahaha

[STP03BlueSI]

ABS Brake bleed?

[27rocks]

the manual says that when you change the rear pads you're supposed to slacken the e-brake cable, push down the brake pedal to set some kind of pin in the rear calipers, then re-tighten cable. Might be worth a shot.

The e-brake cable can be accessed by removing rear part of the center console. Two screws on the outside in the lower back, and two on the inside under the piece of felt.

The brake pedal will be rock-hard until you turn the car on and the brake booster gets vacuum from the engine.

This!!! You must adjust the e-brake/ rear caliper pin.
Let me see if i can find the instructions again. I had posted this before.

Edit: here it is http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthr...brake+problems