3rd Gear Snycro

[ImportCustomx]

Hey guys,

A few things, I'll start with my problem.

I cannot downshift into 3rd from 4th. I can press the clutch in, shift into 2nd (still holding the clutch) then into 3rd and it will go in. But directly from 4th from 3rd...it will not go unless i absoultely jam that fucking thing in..really hard..sometimes it will work sometimes it wont.

I am changing the fluid out this weekend, hoping this may resolve some issues, i am going to check the cables and pedal height etc, but its gotta be fine.

What would cause the downshift from 4 to 3rd to not work? I am thinking the syncro is shot. Shifting from 2nd to 3rd is fine. a little notchy on the 2nd to 3rd at high rpms.

Suggestions?

Also replacing the snychro's.. any particular brand people have had good luck with.

I have an rsx-s transmission, car was dyno'd at 254whp. so it has a little oomph :)

[Ba82Ep3]

Odds are its the 3-4 synchro sleeve and hub. The synchros usually survive unless you have a SEVERE grinding issue... or the people that owned it before you just abused the tranny.

Unfortunately, you cant get hubs and sleeves individually for the 3-4 set, you have to buy the whole set. The part# is 23444-PNS-316 for your tranny. If you shop online its around $230+shipping, and includes the 3rd gear (which you prolly need), two synchro sets, the hub and the sleeve.

These parts go on the mainshaft, and i would advise changing the top mainshaft bearing as well. The part# is 91002-RAS-003, and is like $30.

[Ba82Ep3]

Oh, and try not to jam it in gear anymore... you can easily break the 3-4 fork. Loose metal+expensive gears=FAIL. A $300 issue will become a $700 issue QUICKLY.

Youve got enough power, you can short shift to get around without abusing your trans...

[AKEP]

the bolt on the end of the mainshaft (i think, the one that holds the bearing with the c clip on the driver side) needs to be replaced too. i got confused and put the wrong one in. now it clicks since it reversed out of the shaft and into the casing. kinda annoying.

[Ba82Ep3]

The bolt is on the countershaft, his problems are on the mainshaft. 3-4 on the counter are just solid press on gears. No need to take that apart.

But you're right, that bolt should be replaced if removed.

[ImportCustomx]

holy awesome info! thanks guys, i appreciate it. This is going to have to wait until the winter then. once i have some money saved up and some time to drop it and crack it.

ill post up video's and pics of when i rip into it..maybe next month..who knows. work is so busy.

the gear jamming was a couple only trial and error. i only drive this car when i want to... this ones not my dd. (the skunk2 one). my dd ep3 is being a good little boy

[ImportCustomx]

After a fluid flush and fill...its better, it will occasionally now "lockout" but not nearly as often..actually rarely...i am going to try a little Lucas transmission treatment ...BUT it will need a rebuild for sure.

[Ba82Ep3]

Just saw this... i would advise against the Lucas additive. The ITR trans i took apart was using that additive and i have never seen so much gunk in my life (even the LSD was full of goop). Not only that but... i dont know if you have standard synchros or carbon coated, but the carbon coated dont seem to like the Lucas stuff (personal experience with k20z3 trans). Newer OEM 3/4 synchros are carbon coated.

I had the best results with a Synchromesh trans fluid. Its costly, but my EP trans was spotless when i took it apart and once i had changed it enough to flush all of the other crap out of it... it shifted great. I could slam 2nd and 3rd, or drop 3 gears with immediate on throttle response and no shift lag waiting on the syncs to catch up.

[ImportCustomx]

thanks man, good to know. I did not use the lucas additive...i stayed away. I used it in all my CRX's and had awesome results... when i cracked them yeah it was a little gooey...but nothing too bad.

i am looking into rebuilding 2-3-4 syncrho's...gotta find em cheap enough but ones that can take a beating..any suggestions?

[Ba82Ep3]

If youre looking for syncs alone, check out ClubRSX. Its only cheap because youre not buying the gearset with them. If you crack her open and the gears are rounded too (where the syncs meet the gear) you might as well get OE parts to replace. My OE carbon syncs are working well so far. But i havent really driven the car too hard either. The suspension isnt up to par with the engine and trans for hard corner testing... lol

[ImportCustomx]

yeah i figured oe was good. Ill get her open and take a peek.

I know for sure suspension is up to par and power is there...weakest link right now is my tranny. well..it can handle it .but not gracefully. i need to be assured its up to spec before any auto-x happens this season.

[Ba82Ep3]

Well i know you got some power under the hood... if youre gonna have it apart go ahead and replace the mainshaft bearing and seal in the clutch housing. Youll need an inside bearing puller to get to the seal... so you might as well replace the bearing while you have it out. If Skunk tracked it... then im sure it has some hard miles on it. Better to be safe than sorry IMO...

[ImportCustomx]

You hit the nail on the head. Thats why i am going in there. I want to make sure its good to go.

And yes since i have it out i plan on doing all that. thanks for the Heads up!

And yea, it has some loving on it :)