Reply With QuoteI found this....
http://www.rywire.com/catalog/milspe...ness-p-37.html
hope it helps some.
Considering a minor (probably turn into a major haha) wire tuck this coming winter and I want to get an idea on what I’m getting myself into. If there was information on this site it was lost in the site crash cause there is virtually nothing on here, unless I’m missing it in my searches. I’m going to employ the help of some more knowledgeable friends but they’re not too familiar with K series engines/cars. I’m a noob when it comes to electrical wiring.
I’d like to do the following:
1- Relocate battery to hatch
2- Relocate fuse box to behind bumper or glove box (depending on which is easier)
3- Remove ABS (mine already doesn’t work so no biggy) will purchase ABS delete kit here http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=757257
4- Remove a/c (never use it).
5- Remove cruise control (already deleted with aftermarket steering wheel)
6- Try to tuck/move around anything else on stock engine harness.... not sure if much can be done here.
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With that in mind I have a million questions......
- How much cutting and soldering is required to move the fuse box to the bumper as opposed to the glove box?
- The fuse box is connected to the battery on one end, just 2 power wires correct? And off the other end (lots of wires), it runs down into the back of the engine bay and appears to run into the cabin and I assume to the ECU? If I pull it into the glove box the only cutting required would be the 2 power wires running to the battery correct?
- Batter relocation is pretty straight forward. Using this as a guideline but will put in hatch somewhere http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=633478 . This requires new wires/connections for the battery to fuse box x2, battery to alternator and batter to starter. Grounded in hatch somewhere.
- Has anyone compared how the oem engine harness compares to a Rywire engine harness? How much cleaner does it actually look? Does the oem harness have any hiding ability.
- Can I just remove cruise control throttle cable and leave old TB bracket as is?
- More questions to come haha. Feel free to add anything relevant.
Last edited by 88crx; 08-05-2011 at 12:37 PM.
I found this....
http://www.rywire.com/catalog/milspe...ness-p-37.html
hope it helps some.
Ya thats what I was referring to.... running a engine harness like that doesn't tuck most of the clutter under the hood (battery, fuse box, abs, etc etc). It only cleans up the engine harness, by what amount is what I'm wondering.Originally Posted by Kerby
Im where you are... soon to get elbows deep into wiring the car.
The K engine harness has most of what you need, and can be taken apart and wired as you wish.
The K charge harness can be taken apart as well and broken down into sub harnesses. The starter needs its own dedicated wire to the battery, as does the alternator. This will also allow you to remove the AC compressor wiring in that harness. The only way i think this could be different (but i have not done it to know, only going off of past audio experience), is to use a single 4ga from battery + to a distribution block, and an 8ga from the block to the starter, and another from the block to the alternator. This also depends on where you decide to mount the battery... but one wire to it would be cleaner if it was easily seen.
Moving the fuse box into the glove box sounds easiest. If you went with an odyssey battery and mounted it in place of the EP's washer bottle, it would give you a short easily hidden route for your engine and charge harness to the fuse box. The rest is just loom of your choice, heat shrink, and plenty of time and patience. Theres a vendor/thread on k20a that identifies OEM plugs and plug pins and sells them individually.
Hondata (dunno if you have KPro) doesnt recommend putting the battery in the trunk due to voltage drop... but plenty have done it with no issue.
This is outlined in that clubrsx link I posted.... he used a distribution block, 1 to alt, 1 to starter and 2 to fuse box. He did 1GA input and four 4GA outputs.
Seen here:
Battery in hatch for sure. Dis block under the dash somewhere maybe? Then close lead to fuse box under the dash and longer leads to the alt and starter should work. I just need more help on moving the fuse box. I’d rather not have to re-solder 100 wires haha.
Link? I’ll see if I can find him.
Is this correct?
Guess it would have helped if i had hit that link eh? LOL But yah somethin like that... looks a little busier than i imagined. Looks like he has a battery kill switch installed in there too... thats a good idea.
AF Honda
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88554
That pic is kinda right. If you look at the + battery terminal on your EP and pull the plastic back... there are two wires there. One is for the starter, the other is for the alternator. They need their own wire each to carry the neccessary current. From the battery + to the fuse box can be one wire. Kinda depends on where its all placed...
With the terminals you wouldnt need to solder. Just crimp, pin the plugs (properly lol), and go. I would prolly run one wire from battery in the trunk to a dist block (one in, three out) under the passenger kick panel, one wire going from there to the fuse box under the dash, and two going into the engine bay, one going to the starter the other to the alternator.
You could hide it all under the fender easily... but you would prolly need to make a hole under the passenger kick panel area, add a grommet, and fish the lines under the fender and into the bay. The way he has it there is just alot goin on... and that big ass cable just looks odd sticking out like that. He held it down with cable straps you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes it looks like. It woulda looked cleaner if he had the battery in the trunk in that case.
Lemme see if i can find a pic for ya...
Also that diagram shows 1 wire from fuse box to alternator.... that's correct I assume.... don't know why I thought it was 2 wires from + battery to fuse box.
As for soldering I was concerned with having to solder the wire running from the fuse box to the ECU. That is were they run, correct?
This whole thread is full of win... but start at post #162. This car is my inspiration.
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74166&page=9
Best way to do it is pull all of the wiring harness oem wrap off and do your best to separate all the different connector wiring (untangle), you wouldn't believe how much length you get doing that. From there devise a plan of least resistance. Remember the longer you extend wiring the larger you need to go on the gauge of wire. That's the best advice I can give you. Never done a tuck, but I've done race wiring which is honestly the same concept of a tuck, except you still need to work on it so you don't hide everything.
Last edited by SyckSiR; 02-11-2009 at 12:57 PM.
my ep is white...
- We can talk numbers all you want, but the bullshit stops when the flag drops...
Just found this thread on k20a.... explains the charge harness pretty well.
summary:
4 gauge wire (Battery to Starter)
4 gauge wire (Battery to Fuse Box)
4 gauge wire (Fuse Box to Alternator)
2 gauge??? Thick Ground Wire from Negative battery terminal to Chassis
Plugs (reused from stock harness)
Starter Solenoid to Engine Harness
Alternator to Engine Harness
Knock Sensor to Engine Harness
Seems pretty simple lol
Yep thats a good thread too. He pretty much broke it down and gave decent pix of what he did... and used OEM in the process. The factory loom and extensive electrical tape can make a harness look intimidating. It really isnt any different than knowing the way from your house to several hundred different locations (ECU to whatever). Eventually you can do it in your sleep...
Am I right in thinking that the fuse box only connects straight into the ECU or is that just wishful thinking?
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