DIY: squeaky clutch fix // clutch push rod adjustment

[NEO_FOLLOWER2]

So for those of you with a squeaky clutch or a loose clutch or a clutch that grabs "too high" or too low.

im gonna re post this set of procedures from I-vtec.net and put some pictures to go with it...hopefully you can decipher the pictures because i took them with my cameraphone

this literally took me 10minutes to do... + 15 minutes of figuring out if i did it correctly... = about half an hr

which then just led me to try and drive my car.

My clutch use to squeak alot and feel like there was a bit of play in it before it actually engaged.

now the play has been reduced alot and the squeak sound is almost gone. (it is still present but barely like 15%/100%, but im sure i can just adjust the pushrod more or apply a TINY bit of grease.)

and to add to this.. my clutch for some reason feels alot smoother...could just be in my head tho
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This is an oldie but a goodie.
This has helped some people solve grinding issues on K-Series transmissions, as well as squeeky clutch pedal issues. While this was written for the EP3, it should be the same for any K-Series car, as well as just about any car that uses a hydraulic clutch.
Also, this is pretty much a MUST if you install an aftermarket clutch+pressureplate, in order to get proper engagement/disengagement. That being said, on to the DIY:

Tools needed:
- 12mm wrench
- Small pair of vice grips
- A shop towel, rag, or some good grippy rubber gloves, to get a better grip on the pushrod when turning it
- A drop light/flashlight (unless you have super-uber-night-vision )

1) Slide your driver's seat all the way back, you'll need as much room as possible.
2) Remove the fuse panel cover.
3) Remove the lower panel above the pedals. There is a lock on it similar to the one on the fuse panel cover. Once it is undone, simply pull down to remove the panel.
4) Remove the plastic clip for the kick panel by unscrewing it. This will provide you with a bit more room to work.

For steps 5 through 10, Ignore the red goop everywhere, this is Mobil 1 Synthetic grease from a previous attempt at trying to stop the squeeking (and as we all know, it never works).

5) Take note of the angle that the pushrod enters the clutch master cylinder (CMC) on your car. It is most likely a downward angle. This means that there is slack between the pushrod and the piston in the CMC.

6) Begin by loosening the locknut with the 12mm wrench. You only need to break it loose by one or two threads.

7) Thread the pushrod out of the pushrod mounting bracket, by turning it clockwise. This will push it further into the CMC. This is where the rag/shop towel, or the grippy rubber gloves come in handy. The pushrod is a rather smooth surface and is hard to get a grip on, especially if there's grease all over it (god damn synthetic grease that never wears out ). As you're turning the pushrod, it will come to a point where it begins to get pretty hard to turn. At that point, you'll want to stop, and try pushing the clutch pedal down with your hand. There should be a tiny bit of free play, and then it should begin to get stiff. If there's no free play, then you've turned the pushrod into the CMC too much, and have put a preload on the piston in the CMC. If this is the case, back the pushrod out a bit until you get freeplay.

8) Once you have the pushrod adjusted and have made sure there is no preload on the CMC piston, take a look at the angle of the pushrod to the CMC. It should be pretty much 90 degrees. Much better then before, as there's now no slack.

9) Take your vicegrips, and clamp them on to the pushrod right where it enters the CMC.

10) Tighten the locknut using the 12mm wrench, while holding onto the vicegrips so that the pushrod does not back out of the CMC. Make sure the locknut is good and tight.

11) Thread the plastic clip from back onto it's stud. If it's becomming too much of a pain in the ass sitting there threading it on, you can usually just push it on.

12) Replace the lower cover, followed by the fuse panel cover.

13) Go for a test drive and enjoy your (hopefully) much better feeling clutch

[NEO_FOLLOWER2]

[NEO_FOLLOWER2]

hope this helps someone =]

its very easy. you'll be able to visually see the rod go in or out.

this problems seems to be the equivalent to a loose throttle body cable(free play in gas pedal) except for the clutch pedal.
im sure talonx will come and tell me im wrong though lol.

[lemonhead228]

So doing this would benefit it right? And do the clutch catch completely different?

[.colin]

Going to have to do this later today, my clutch grabs really high and squeeks like a mofo.

[NEO_FOLLOWER2]

Going to have to do this later today, my clutch grabs really high and squeeks like a mofo.

how'd it work out for you?

i honestly don't know what exactly it did on my car, just that my clutch feels alot better and it doesnt squeak...

so im looking for feedback from other people who do this also

[ttttrigg3r]

I want to personally thank the OP for making this DIY. I just did this today. I dont know what clutch grabbing really high means, but this fixed my squeek problem. one thing to note. when you're loosening the nut, you want to turn clockwise as you're looking from the back of the car to the front. I sat there for a minute thinking lefty loosey, but in this case when you're down there looking at the front of the car, you want to turn clockwise.

[talonXracer]

Good pictures of the CMC/pedal

Just so you understand that is a bandaid fix for the clutch squeek, it will return.

The problem arises from the pushrod not being square with the bore of the CMC(Honda design) and ZERO grease being applied from the factory. The rounded end of the pushrod is NOT hard joined to the CMC piston cup, it is free floating. With use the free floating pushrod wears to a point and a groove is worn into the cup, the click occurs as the pointed end rides in and out of the groove. The only sure fix is a new CMC that has grease applied PRIOR to install

[Danielsle]

Great DIY. A common problem with our EPs and some RSXs. I was reading this and I realized that my clutch kinda stopped squeaking on its own. I might still do this just in case though.

[Kibble Fat]

Tried this and it still feels difficult to shift without rev-matching. Am I safe to adjust into the "harder" portion of the stroke or am I risking not getting enough clutch engagement? For me I think the risk is pretty low

[lemonhead228]

Okay I just finish changing out my clutch and boy was it a bitch!

I think my clutch catches on the high side ( more room to catch) so Ima have to do this first thing tomorrow.

Thanks for this helpful dui

[ep-unit]

good thread

[SHG_EasyE]

Ill have to give this a try. Ive been lubing the pivot on the pedal and rod with Honda Moly paste a couple times a year and each time I apply it seems to instantly cure the squeak. Then as it wears away the squeak will come back.

[jayjeff333]

hey guys! I want to do this adjustment today, but I dont understand one thing. The lock nut is on the right like the bottom pic shows, so why is his tool on the left nut? Can anyone specify in more detail please?

[StockTexasEP3]

hey guys! I want to do this adjustment today, but I dont understand one thing. The lock nut is on the right like the bottom pic shows, so why is his tool on the left nut? Can anyone specify in more detail please?

Bump!