Reply With QuoteWhat exactly does this mean(noob here). Will the Nuspeed require additional parts?Originally Posted by 02TWSI
The buddy club is the entire shifter assembly and just recently became available again, it was discontinued for a while.
What exactly does this mean(noob here). Will the Nuspeed require additional parts?
no, the nuespeed one is like a little piece that makes it feel like a short shifter, but it just makes the vertical shift shorter, not the horizontal shift. the buddy club one is a complete shifter mechanism, the thing you see when you pull that cover off the shifter, all of it. its theonly proper short shifter for us.
bought it! Now my dilemma is a clutch kit. If I'm going to go K24A2, should I get a Stage 2, or will an OE clutch be enough?
Last edited by 03Si757; 02-24-2009 at 08:37 PM.
i'd do at least a stage 1.5 or so. stage 2 wouldn't hurt though
6 puck sprung, never look back!
i have a k24a2, rsx oem clutch and boosted, 300hp, no slip.
Dam man your on a spending spree haha. BCSS is def the way to go.
The Clutchmasters stg4 seems to be popular because it's a similar price to the lower stages. I went stg2 because I don't plan on any additional power adders and stg2 is gonna be more DD-able than stg4.
Yea, tell me about it. Until I get my security deposit back, a raise, and a holiday bonus, not going to be doing any more spending. Bushings and a clutch is all I need now. I'm going to go stage 1.5, there's a Competition Clutch on clubrsx for $259, unless you guys think the OEM replacement clutch by Competition Clutch would be enough for a K24 in the future? I could save $100...at this point I'd be happy saving $10...
It depends on what you gonna do for your build. An oem replacement should be fine if you just doing I/h/e. But if you're gonna build it than go with the stage 1.5. It's better for that tourque if you get the stage 1.5 cuz its gonna grip more even if you run all stock.
Check the Competetion Clutch site for specs. I think my stg2 was rated for "80% more tq than stock" so I figured out what that was and estimated wtq rating and compared that to how much wtq similar setups were making.
I'm definitely not going to need 80% more, if/when I go K24, i'm going to be keeping it NA.
Uhhh... are you just guessing or are you actually calculating?
k20a2 flywheel rated tq is 142ft-lb. Assuming 20% losses that's 114wtq. A n/a k24 with bolt-ons and kpro makes about 200wtq which is 75% more tq than stock.
Technically you're right that you don't need 80% but that's pretty damn close.
Didn't think the flywheel would be the issue...not sure why it was recommended then...
I'm saying the torque at the flywheel is 142 according to Honda. The dyno numbers I used were torque at the wheels so you have to do the conversion from flywheel tq to wheel tq to be able to compare. I just estimated 20% difference because that's common on fwd cars.
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