Jackson Racing Supercharger

[zac3369]

I'm thinking about buying a Jackson racing supercharger from online. All internals are stock and the engine has about 160k miles. I plan on getting a compression test done to see if its even worth getting or if I'm just gonna blow my engine. Do I need to replace any internals first before I order it or should it be fine. Would it do any damage if I were to put it in with that many miles? Any response is appreciated.

[Pandamanda22]

Don't waste money on your a3.. boost it and when it blows get a swap thats worth it.

[Euro-Yellow-Ep3]

agreeed^^^^

[hyu]

Don't waste money on your a3.. boost it and when it blows get a swap thats worth it.

Might be more money initially... K-pro, tuning it, turbo, exhaust etc vs supercharging it with a reflash.
Unless you can run turbos without a k-pro? Dunno havn't looked into turboing our cars that much

[junevtec]

U could run it on low boost using greedy emanage piggy back ecu system

[Blah1219]

If you have the money then Kpro first. You'll save in the long run!!

[BlownSi05]

Do a compression test, and if everything looks good, you can go with the JRSC without replacing any internals.

Are you getting a power card (street kit) or flashed ECU/K-Pro (race kit) with it? it will need some kind of engine management, either way. K-Pro will net the best results, as you can take the car and have it tuned for your mods and purpose.

As far as the K20A3; I would recommend NOT to dump a lot of money into that motor. A few of us on here went down that road of trying to get all we could out of the A3. By the time we got close, we had already paid for a K20A2/Z1 swap that would have given us double the power and capability in the first place. The A3 honestly is not worth it if you are wanting a higher level of performance.

Edit: Also, if the JRSC has more that 80K-100K miles on it, it would be good to change the oil in it and also thing about changing the snout bearing as well. The last generation of the roots JRSC did not have the snout bearing problems the early gens did, but it is always better to be safe.

[junevtec]

for the jrsc kit [street] does the ecu need a reflash or can he run a piggy back ecu or something?

[BlownSi05]

for the jrsc kit [street] does the ecu need a reflash or can he run a piggy back ecu or something?

Street kit uses the power card piggy back.

[gtolio]

Do a compression test, and if everything looks good, you can go with the JRSC without replacing any internals.

Are you getting a power card (street kit) or flashed ECU/K-Pro (race kit) with it? it will need some kind of engine management, either way. K-Pro will net the best results, as you can take the car and have it tuned for your mods and purpose.

As far as the K20A3; I would recommend NOT to dump a lot of money into that motor. A few of us on here went down that road of trying to get all we could out of the A3. By the time we got close, we had already paid for a K20A2/Z1 swap that would have given us double the power and capability in the first place. The A3 honestly is not worth it if you are wanting a higher level of performance.

Edit: Also, if the JRSC has more that 80K-100K miles on it, it would be good to change the oil in it and also thing about changing the snout bearing as well. The last generation of the roots JRSC did not have the snout bearing problems the early gens did, but it is always better to be safe.

Everyone wants to dog on the A3 all the time. I've said it before and I'll say it again, you can make decent power on the A3. Obviously it's not the best K configuration, but you CAN make power on it. I have and other people have. It's not a motor that you should go building, but it can take a little bit of abuse in stock form. In fact, I have had some friends with decently quick stock block A3s on JRSC race kits with the right supporting mods.

That being said, the JRSC street kit is worthless for how much it costs. If you are not going to upgrade it to a race kit and run kpro and a smaller pulley, you will be disappointed in the power you make for the money.

[BlownSi05]

Everyone wants to dog on the A3 all the time. I've said it before and I'll say it again, you can make decent power on the A3. Obviously it's not the best K configuration, but you CAN make power on it. I have and other people have. It's not a motor that you should go building, but it can take a little bit of abuse in stock form. In fact, I have had some friends with decently quick stock block A3s on JRSC race kits with the right supporting mods.

That being said, the JRSC street kit is worthless for how much it costs. If you are not going to upgrade it to a race kit and run kpro and a smaller pulley, you will be disappointed in the power you make for the money.

I am not knocking the A3. My car had an A3 the entire time and I loved it. It is a great motor that can take a hell of a beating. My point was that replacing internals and fixing the A3 is not worth the money, since the costs would be close to the cost of an A2/Z1 swap. I know, I had to replace the valvetrain on my A3 and I regretted it, even to this day. I could have swapped an A2 and had it retuned for that cost.

[gtolio]

I am not knocking the A3. My car had an A3 the entire time and I loved it. It is a great motor that can take a hell of a beating. My point was that replacing internals and fixing the A3 is not worth the money, since the costs would be close to the cost of an A2/Z1 swap. I know, I had to replace the valvetrain on my A3 and I regretted it, even to this day. I could have swapped an A2 and had it retuned for that cost.

Agreed.

[StockTexasEP3]

Interesting...

[zac3369]

Part# 989-304 $3,495.00
Civic SI Race Supercharger System - w/K-Pro ECU

This is what all comes with it...
Item No. Description Qty Item No. Description Qty
989-302 SUPERCHARGER SYSTEM, RACE 1 989-559 RSX MAP RELOCATION BRKT KIT 1
988-109 TENSIONER ASSEMBLY 1 052-371 BRACKET, MAP SENSOR RELOCATION 1
051-206 BOLT, HEX, M6 X 1.0 X 70 1 052-373 O-RING, BUNA-N, NO. 108 1
051-215 SPACER, SHOULDER 1 051-142 HOSE BARB, 5/32 VACUUM 1
051-219 T-NUT, TENSIONER BOLTS 1 771-368 SCREW, PHILLIPS, M5 X 0.8 X 35 1
051-359 NUT, STANDARD HEX, M6 X 1.0 1 051-259 HOSE, VACUUM, 5/32 IN., BULK 8
051-627 PULLEY, 2.0IN IDLER, NYLON 1 051-696 BADGE, JACKSON RACING 2
051-788 BOLT, HEX M10 X 1.5 X 40 1 052-071 LICENSE PLATE FRAME, JR 1
051-861 BOLT,HEX FLANGE,M8 X 1.25 X 40 2
052-293 BOLT,HEX FLANGE,M8 X 1.25 X 70 1
052-328 CASTING, BELT TENSIONER 1
052-331 SPACER, IDLER, .325 1
052-377 SCREW, AHCS, M6 X 1.0 X 10 1
988-425 INTAKE & SUPERCHARGER ASSEMBLY 1
051-016 CABLE TIE, 4IN. 1
051-075 WASHER, LOCK, M8 1
051-121 SCREW, SHCS, M6 X 1.0 X 16 4
051-142 HOSE BARB. 7/32 VACUUM 2
051-144 HOSE, SILICONE, 1.5 ID X 1.25 2
051-151 VACUUM CAP, 5/32 1
051-189 CLAMP, HOSE, NARROW BAND 4
051-207 SCREW, AHCS, M8 X 1.25 X 25 4
051-529 GASKET, JR BYPASS-MANIFOLD 1
051-551 HOSE, VACUUM, 7/32, BULK 14
051-553 RETAINING CLIP, 7/32 VACUUM 1
051-680 HOSE BARB, 3/8 VACUUM 1
052-032 TUBE, BYPASS 1
052-160 S/C JR M62CW, NO NOSE PULLEY 1
052-155 PULLEY, S/C 4.0 7-RIB 1
052-179 GASKET, JR62 S/C TO INTAKE 1
052-326 MANIFOLD, INTAKE, CIVIC SI 1
052-378 BYPASS VALVE, PORT OUT 1
052-386 BOLT, HEX, M8 X 1.25 X 100 1
988-426 HARDWARE AND HOSE BAG 1
051-016 CABLE TIE, 4IN. 8
051-135 BOLT,HEX FLANGE,M8 X 1.25 X 40 2
051-151 VACUUM CAP, 5/32 1
051-207 SCREW, AHCS, M8 X 1.25 X 25 4
051-505 BOLT,HEX FLANGE,M8 X 1.25 X 25 8
051-528 GASKET,GEN3 S/C-TB ADAPTER 1
052-407 BELT, 5070625 1
051-680 HOSE BARB, 3/8 VACUUM 2
052-327 MANIFOLD, SUPERCHARGER INLET 1
051-142 HOSE BARB, 5/32 VACUUM 2
052-167 GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD 1
051-190 CLAMP, HOSE, SAE NO. 8 1
051-260 HOSE, PCV, 3/8 IN ID, BULK 24
052-830 INJECTORS, MATCHED SET,440CC 1
052-567 INJECTOR HARNESS,RSX & CIVICSI 4
052-010 STICKER, PREMIUM FUEL RQRD 1
052-355 STICKER, AIR TEMP. SENSOR 2
052-356 STICKER, MAP SENSOR 2
052-357 STICKER, TPS 2
052-358 STICKER, IAC VALVE 2
052-359 STICKER, EVAP. SOLENOID 2

[RHCP0801]

and????