Reply With Quotethat's a hell of a lot less hp than a swap or turbo kit also
Those who bag on the k20a3 are aware that the block is essentially a k20a2 without the oil squirters and OE forged parts... right?
All you need is used k20a2 crank rods and pistons that meet OE spec and you can build a k20a2 bottom end. Pick up k20a2 used cams and four more exhaust rockers and kill VTEC and you'll have a 200hp engine.
This can be done for less than 1k. That's a hell of a lot cheaper than a swap OR turbo kit.
that's a hell of a lot less hp than a swap or turbo kit also
Of course it is... but it gives you the durability that everyone seems to think the a3 lacks... a better base platform.
With those changes, could the S/C still work?
I have a A3 w/ the JRSC, and find it interesting you could do that. Would be nice to know if I could do that and still keep my S/C added for the added power as well and not blow the head/block.
Absolutely...
Reading back in this thread, it was noted that you should replace the snout bearing and oil. Engine just hit 95,000 miles, but I have no idea how long the S/C has been on this car, so I figured I could just replace it now to get it done and over with.
Is there a DIY for both of those? I noticed a flapping noise coming from my engine bay where the S/C is at higher RPM's, so either the belt is crapping out or perhaps something is loose with the S/C. Either way, should get those both done.
What about engine management??Originally Posted by Ba82Ep3
KPro... or EMS. I tend to take that for granted as an option. I just assume everyone would get one or the other. lol
You do not have to replace the snout bearing if it is working fine i.e. no noise, squeaking, etc. Some of the early blowers soon after the kits were released had an issue with them wearing out or failing, but this was in the very first production line. I mentioned it earlier as just something that you should keep an eye on.
Changing the oil is easy and can even be done with the blower still on the car, but to me it was just as easy to pull the blower off, drain the oil, re-fill, and re-install. Not sure if there is a DIY posted here for it. At the base of the snout there is a little allen-key plug that you remove to drain the oil. I used the GM Supercharger oil (available at any GM dealership) and I think the bottle was 4 oz. One bottle is enough to re-fill.
Which pushes the cost of a swap over 2 k. Why isn't there open source tuning again?
Which sucks i know. Its definitely a horse that has been beaten, shot, and stabbed... but for these chassis/engines there isnt but so much you can do about that.
JRSC-R for sale...
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthr...io-Garage-Sale
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