Energy Susp bushings kit - the answer to the 100k mile wobbles? How hard is install?

[StockTexasEP3]

I'm looking at picking this kit up to do over the holidays. I'm throwing on Skunk2 springs but want to refresh the suspension while I'm under neath the car, taking the struts off. I think this is what I've been looking for to make my 100 thousand mile suspension feel better. Does anyone know how hard of an install this is? Estimated time and or a write up?

Thank you all for the continued help. Ephatch has saved me over 1000 dollars in labor through DIY's so far.

[StockTexasEP3]

I just did some research on the kit and it looks like it includes front and rear control arm bushings and front and rear sway bar bushings. I have an upgraded sway in the back so those bushings won't fit. Actually when I installed my rear sway I didn't have new bushings included (egay) so I went to autozone and cut some universal ones down a bit to fit. Will that negatively affect the suspension since it's not 100% flush around the sway bar? And will upgraded front and rear control arm bushings make that big of a difference in ride quality?

[usedep3]

the compliance bushing will make a noticeable difference. i plan on replacing them mine the near future. I know my front passenger side is on its way out

[Drew1d]

I did the fronts on my car. They feel good, and it's been about maybe 40k. I bought a second set of front LCA's and the bushings were put in. Then I held on to it.

Then the moment of opportunity came, one of my front brake calipers froze closed. So I replaced my front calipers, rotors, pads at the same time.

I used the OTC ball joint separator. And replaced the tiny grease boot. I cut the front endlinks (removed the rest of the bar when I did exhaust work) and the old LCA could be removed with two bolts.

The ES bushings are much larger, and I had to "wiggle" them in. New castle nut on the ball joint, then reassembled the brakes, then moved to the next side.

Doing it myself, I'd say it probably took 6 hours. From getting the tools, lifting the car etc... all the way to ready for a test drive.

The next day I got it realigned as it did change the alignment. (at least for me.)

It's worth it, and cheap to do I suppose. If I had to press the bushings in at the time of doing all the work though, I'm not sure how much more time that would take.

Good Luck.

[.colin]

I hit 100k a few months ago and I know my driver side compliance bushing is starting to tear, this is definitely on my To Do list.

[Drew1d]

Looked at them today and the ES bushings are still holding up fine. Tonight I'm going to shoot them with a little silicone lube.

Once again I'd like to recommend getting a second set of LCA's that you can press in your own bushings before making this upgrade/repair. It saved me so much time, and time is money. :)

[StockTexasEP3]

Looked at them today and the ES bushings are still holding up fine. Tonight I'm going to shoot them with a little silicone lube.

Once again I'd like to recommend getting a second set of LCA's that you can press in your own bushings before making this upgrade/repair. It saved me so much time, and time is money. :)

As opposed to trying to get them out? I'm taking mine to a shop to be pressed out. Is that right?

[Drew1d]

As opposed to trying to get them out? I'm taking mine to a shop to be pressed out. Is that right?

Sure. If the LCA's are out of the car, or if you have a second set, have the shop press them out, and press the new ones in.
If you are bringing the whole car for them, and they are doing all the work, it will be expensive, but shouldn't take them anywhere near the time it took me.

But like I said, I replaced the calipers, rotors, pads, ball joint boot and LCA's when I did it. These are things that are very easy to do when you have it all apart.

[StockTexasEP3]

Sure. If the LCA's are out of the car, or if you have a second set, have the shop press them out, and press the new ones in.
If you are bringing the whole car for them, and they are doing all the work, it will be expensive, but shouldn't take them anywhere near the time it took me.

But like I said, I replaced the calipers, rotors, pads, ball joint boot and LCA's when I did it. These are things that are very easy to do when you have it all apart.

Ok quick question. What's the piece thats the middle boot in between the two bushings on each end of the front knuckle/LCA? It's the middle rubber boot thing, that's above the locking that is held together with the cotter pin. What's this piece called, because I ripped it?

[Drew1d]

That's the ball joint boot.

The ball joint is in the knuckle. The post, bolt or whatever you call it threads through the LCA, than a castlenut is put on and a cotterpin for additional safety. The balljoint allows the knuckle to spin on the LCA so the wheel can turn. Because it also must be allowed to move back and forth as the wheel moves up and down, they put that boot full of grease over it to keep the joint constantly lubricated.

So it's really important that dirt and rocks and shit doesn't get in there. If you still have it apart, replace it. It's a very cheap part. Really like $2.50

You will need to take the old one off, (I grabbed the greasy-ness with pliers until I could wiggle a screwdriver underneath the metal ring inside the boot to get it off.) Then I cut the end off an old flashlight (or pipe) and "lipped" the new one on after filling it with White Lithium grease. (from a canister, not spray, it's a little thicker.)

If you put it back together, I hate to say it but take it apart and replace the boot. If it gets damaged, you'll have to either replace the entire knuckle(Honda doesn't sell the ball joint separate) or get someone to press a new one in. (which probably requires removing the knuckle from the car.) I haven't had to do that yet, but I can imagine
removing hanging calipers,
remove brake rotor,
pop off ball joint,
remove shock,
disconnect axle and boots,
remove knuckle,
get out ball joint,
press in new ball joint
and reassemble,
I mean, that to me sounds like at least twice the time, I'd rather just replace the boot.

Good luck.

[StockTexasEP3]

That's the ball joint boot.

The ball joint is in the knuckle. The post, bolt or whatever you call it threads through the LCA, than a castlenut is put on and a cotterpin for additional safety. The balljoint allows the knuckle to spin on the LCA so the wheel can turn. Because it also must be allowed to move back and forth as the wheel moves up and down, they put that boot full of grease over it to keep the joint constantly lubricated.

So it's really important that dirt and rocks and shit doesn't get in there. If you still have it apart, replace it. It's a very cheap part. Really like $2.50

You will need to take the old one off, (I grabbed the greasy-ness with pliers until I could wiggle a screwdriver underneath the metal ring inside the boot to get it off.) Then I cut the end off an old flashlight (or pipe) and "lipped" the new one on after filling it with White Lithium grease. (from a canister, not spray, it's a little thicker.)

If you put it back together, I hate to say it but take it apart and replace the boot. If it gets damaged, you'll have to either replace the entire knuckle(Honda doesn't sell the ball joint separate) or get someone to press a new one in. (which probably requires removing the knuckle from the car.) I haven't had to do that yet, but I can imagine
removing hanging calipers,
remove brake rotor,
pop off ball joint,
remove shock,
disconnect axle and boots,
remove knuckle,
get out ball joint,
press in new ball joint
and reassemble,
I mean, that to me sounds like at least twice the time, I'd rather just replace the boot.

Good luck.

So basically you just greased and pushed that boot up on there? Right up on the balljoint? No problems yet? And thanks for the info. And luckily ( I guess ) my ep3 is on blocks and complete taken apart. Shocks / springs are off, LCA front and rear are off. I'm having a hell of a time getting the rear bushings out. Any info on that? Thanks again.

[Drew1d]

So basically you just greased and pushed that boot up on there? Right up on the balljoint? No problems yet? And thanks for the info. And luckily ( I guess ) my ep3 is on blocks and complete taken apart. Shocks / springs are off, LCA front and rear are off. I'm having a hell of a time getting the rear bushings out. Any info on that? Thanks again.

Yup, fill the boot with grease and push em on. maybe leave a little space, the boot will be squished, but generally, the overfill spilled out the bottom. (by the post)

I haven't had any problems, and the boots are still in good shape with none of the little tears...at least yet.

I haven't done the trailing arms yet, but a word to the wise. Don't stick a screwdriver through the hole and twist to get off the front facing bushing of the trailing arm. Put those ears in a vice and twist. Also be sure which bushings you're taking out, the kit doesn't supply all of them. Like the LCA's with the weird bolts, the bushings for that aren't supplied.

Most of the instructions are getting all-thread, (a threaded rod) and using bushing, washers, nuts and putting it in a vice.

I've been meaning to do it, but it's not a straight forward deal like the front LCA bushings. So when I do the rear brakes this summer...or next, I'll try and do it then.

[StockTexasEP3]

Yup, fill the boot with grease and push em on. maybe leave a little space, the boot will be squished, but generally, the overfill spilled out the bottom. (by the post)

I haven't had any problems, and the boots are still in good shape with none of the little tears...at least yet.

I haven't done the trailing arms yet, but a word to the wise. Don't stick a screwdriver through the hole and twist to get off the front facing bushing of the trailing arm. Put those ears in a vice and twist. Also be sure which bushings you're taking out, the kit doesn't supply all of them. Like the LCA's with the weird bolts, the bushings for that aren't supplied.

Most of the instructions are getting all-thread, (a threaded rod) and using bushing, washers, nuts and putting it in a vice.

I've been meaning to do it, but it's not a straight forward deal like the front LCA bushings. So when I do the rear brakes this summer...or next, I'll try and do it then.

Yea the rear install is a huge PITA. So you're saying that people take like a vice grip to push out the bushings that are like on the rear hub? Also where do you buy the balljoint casings? Thanks

[Drew1d]

untitled.jpg
Those tabs. (click on picture) I know there is a twisting step to taking them off, just haven't tried it yet. Don't jam a screwdriver in the bolt hole to twist, put the whole ear in a vice and twist them out.

As for the grease boots, I mail ordered mine from honda. $2.50 a piece.

[StockTexasEP3]

untitled.jpg
Those tabs. (click on picture) I know there is a twisting step to taking them off, just haven't tried it yet. Don't jam a screwdriver in the bolt hole to twist, put the whole ear in a vice and twist them out.

As for the grease boots, I mail ordered mine from honda. $2.50 a piece.

Yea the tabs are quite hard to get out, but I have them mostly burned out. The difficult bushings so far have been the ones on the brake assembly. Those you need a threaded rod but I'm not 100% sure what to do for that. I used a Clamp which got the out a bit, but not all the way.