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  1. #16
    eptarded whatsvtec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nowhales View Post
    make sure you don't wash it with soap just water the first time you clean it down. or else it will dull the paint. i've made that mistake twice....
    A good solution to that problem, wash frequently from the start. The trick is don't apply any pressure at all when washing, just let the soapy mitt or sponge slide freely across the surface in a straight motion, back and forth. Fresh paint will scratch easily for a while, so instead of worrying about hazed paint, clean it up after it's cured and hardened. After 30-90 days(check with your paint shop), you're safe to give it a good buff job. A light polish like a swirl remover should work just fine. Give it a good glaze with a product made for dark paints (ie. blackfire), a coat of sealant, 2 coats of wax and stand back in amazement.

    I notice a little hazing or possible sand scratches on the fender in front (I'm too critical ) Like I said before, pay attention when washing, you might notice left over sand scratches or buffer trails. Those clean up easy on your fresh paint so have fun with a PC and some m105 for sand scratches and m205 for buffing trails.

  2. #17
    Registered User nowhales's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whatsvtec View Post
    A good solution to that problem, wash frequently from the start. The trick is don't apply any pressure at all when washing, just let the soapy mitt or sponge slide freely across the surface in a straight motion, back and forth. Fresh paint will scratch easily for a while, so instead of worrying about hazed paint, clean it up after it's cured and hardened. After 30-90 days(check with your paint shop), you're safe to give it a good buff job. A light polish like a swirl remover should work just fine. Give it a good glaze with a product made for dark paints (ie. blackfire), a coat of sealant, 2 coats of wax and stand back in amazement.

    I notice a little hazing or possible sand scratches on the fender in front (I'm too critical ) Like I said before, pay attention when washing, you might notice left over sand scratches or buffer trails. Those clean up easy on your fresh paint so have fun with a PC and some m105 for sand scratches and m205 for buffing trails.
    i used to be extremely critical and then i just got lazy and now i just DGAF, lol. as long as its washed thats all

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrious View Post
    lookin good!
    bump for more pics!
    Quote Originally Posted by nowhales View Post
    make sure you don't wash it with soap just water the first time you clean it down. or else it will dull the paint. i've made that mistake twice....
    Quote Originally Posted by whatsvtec View Post
    A good solution to that problem, wash frequently from the start. The trick is don't apply any pressure at all when washing, just let the soapy mitt or sponge slide freely across the surface in a straight motion, back and forth. Fresh paint will scratch easily for a while, so instead of worrying about hazed paint, clean it up after it's cured and hardened. After 30-90 days(check with your paint shop), you're safe to give it a good buff job. A light polish like a swirl remover should work just fine. Give it a good glaze with a product made for dark paints (ie. blackfire), a coat of sealant, 2 coats of wax and stand back in amazement.

    I notice a little hazing or possible sand scratches on the fender in front (I'm too critical ) Like I said before, pay attention when washing, you might notice left over sand scratches or buffer trails. Those clean up easy on your fresh paint so have fun with a PC and some m105 for sand scratches and m205 for buffing trails.
    1. Thanks! Thats the only pic I got so far, ill get another when I get the hardtop on. :)

    2/3. Thanks for the input/info, will take it to heart. I also left the car out on my driveway on the sunny days to help speed up the curing process. So from what I understand washing a car with fresh paint is fine, but polishing/waxing/sealing is a do not because of the paint still emitting chemical fumes I think? As in the paint needs to breath and release then harden and cure and then all is well. Most people suggest 2 months minimum. My paint shop told me when I picked the car up to apply some wax to protect the paint, I didnt bother saying anything about that.

    The next day after pick up I washed the car I washed the car and just streamed the water on the body, I did use soap though but didnt notice any hazing after...now I am kinda urked because some say say soap is fine while others strictly emphasize not to use it for the first wash...ahhhh dont know.

  4. #19
    eptarded whatsvtec's Avatar
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    Glaze is fine for now, but anything that seals the paint is a no-no(wax and sealant). You're right about the paint needing to "breathe", it's still releasing gasses. As for soap, I work in a body shop, I wash fresh paint all the time, I use soap on every car. The only difference is I don't use any pressure at all, and I make sure to use clean wash buckets and the 2 bucket method.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by whatsvtec View Post
    Glaze is fine for now, but anything that seals the paint is a no-no(wax and sealant). You're right about the paint needing to "breathe", it's still releasing gasses. As for soap, I work in a body shop, I wash fresh paint all the time, I use soap on every car. The only difference is I don't use any pressure at all, and I make sure to use clean wash buckets and the 2 bucket method.
    Thanks! In between washings I use quick detailer, is that safe? Not sure if the QD has some wax/sealant properties or its just a solution to provide lubricity when wiping the car down.

  6. #21
    eptarded whatsvtec's Avatar
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    You might want to find out what kind of qd you have. Some are like a wax/sealant. Some are more like a clay lube/gloss enhancer. Itd deff be good to check before using it.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by whatsvtec View Post
    You might want to find out what kind of qd you have. Some are like a wax/sealant. Some are more like a clay lube/gloss enhancer. Itd deff be good to check before using it.
    I have the Meguiars one in the maroon ish spray bottle, it says enhance gloss/shine in between washings.


  8. #23
    eptarded whatsvtec's Avatar
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    Good to go! Most QD's that have sealing characteristics are labeled as "quick wax" or something along those lines.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by whatsvtec View Post
    Good to go! Most QD's that have sealing characteristics are labeled as "quick wax" or something along those lines.
    Whew good stuff thanks!

  10. #25
    Registered User AKEP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whatsvtec View Post
    I'm considering prepping the whole car and re-spraying clear at this point.
    respraying wont solve anything unless you put a TON of clear on. which isnt a bad thing, and if you got the hook up at the body shop then take advantage. i like my clear thick and laid like glass. its easier to nib out dirt and dust unless youre going for that oem orange peel texture. if they let you use the detailing tools you can nib out everything in an afternoon/evening, then polish it another day.

  11. #26
    eptarded whatsvtec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKEP View Post
    respraying wont solve anything unless you put a TON of clear on. which isnt a bad thing, and if you got the hook up at the body shop then take advantage. i like my clear thick and laid like glass. its easier to nib out dirt and dust unless youre going for that oem orange peel texture. if they let you use the detailing tools you can nib out everything in an afternoon/evening, then polish it another day.
    Detailing in the body shop is what I do, so they let me use their tools everyday
    I would have them lay it on thick and believe me, it would take more than 8hrs to "de-nib" my car. The whole car would get flattened to 1500(Like Glass ), then brought back to consistency with 3000. Though, our paint booth has been fucking up, I've gotta sand a whole car right now due to that... Also.... I've been looking for a new job, so IDK if that's in the cards. I'm probably just gonna go buckwild with my PC and some M105 soon.

  12. #27
    Registered User AKEP's Avatar
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    shiiiit then do it. thats the best when you have a shop at your disposal. glass that shit UP!
    you guys change the filters? a shitty booth sucks. maybe it needs to be vacuumed out in the vents too.

  13. #28
    eptarded whatsvtec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKEP View Post
    shiiiit then do it. thats the best when you have a shop at your disposal. glass that shit UP!
    you guys change the filters? a shitty booth sucks. maybe it needs to be vacuumed out in the vents too.
    Well things got shored up there pretty quick. I'm back on the job hunt, but the polished turd will still be lookin' pretty this spring. I'm gonna fix the medium stuff with m105 and the deep imperfections I'll wetsand out. Cheaper/quicker=better

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