Clutch Options.. Buy a combo, or piece it together?

[iDom]

Ok, it's that time.. I'm really really up in the air with the clutch. I don't want to regret buying a $600 clutch and it being a POS or there being a better alternative out there..

I was thinking about getting a Fidanza flywheel with replaceable friction plate ($190)

http://www.customcarscentral.com/fnz...s--02-06-.html

And then idk what for the clutch.. I don't want a 6-puck stage 4, it seems to be overkill for me. I would like to get something in the $350-$375 price range, bringing the total to $560 all together. I was thinking somewhere in the Stage 2 region..

Some people have said OEM flywheel, and a OEM clutch.. But, I want some peace of mind and an upgrade. What do you guys think?

Clutch Masters? Competition Clutch? ACT? Exedy? Should I call somewhere and get something custom?

[AKEP]

if you like your a/c stay stock flywheel or type-s (or street light flywheel)
as far as clutch, oem is half the price of a stage 1. so ask yourself if you need more than an oem clutch. if you're not tracking it, don't need an upgrade. if you plan on boost, i'd set your hp projection now and get a clutch that can go beyond that tq rating. which is how we usually end up with a 6 puck lol.

[iDom]

I would like 250-low 300's as far as power goes. I would like to do 250 NA, but I know a turbo kit can probably be had for less than what it would cost to get those numbers NA and yield much higher numbers..

I do intend to take it to the drag strip every now and then, do some autoX, maybe an open track day at Mid-Ohio sometime down the road.. Oh and of course, spirited driving.. It's definitely going to be a street car.

So that's a no go on the Fidanza?
Yes, keeping my AC is what I want to do.
I can't find an OEM RSX-S Flywheel for anything but around $200, and for the much money, I sorta feel stupid not getting a lighter one.. How light is 'too' light for wanting to still use the AC?

[iDom]

Oh yea, i'm going to the Honda dealer to get the parts I need for my swap today (I get these for cost because I know a guy that works there)

HONDA
EP3 Throttle Body Gaskets (1)
EP3 Intake Manifold Bolts/Nuts (All) (I know I don't "NEED" these)
EP3 Exhaust Manifold Bolts/Nuts (All) (I know I don't "NEED" these)
EP3 Serp Belt
06+ Si Throttle Body Gasket: 16176-RBC-004
06+ Si Intake Manifold Gasket: 17105-RAA-A01
RBC IM: 17100-RRB-A00
K24 CRV Passenger Side Mount: 11910-PPA-000
Manual Transmission Fluid (3)

I wonder if he could get a Type R flywheel or something.. Or what about the 06-11 Si flywheel instead of having to buy a retail RSX-S one?

[Ba82Ep3]

Yep yep. 06+ SI fly would be great. : )

You know my opinion... it usually tends to lean to overkill... lol

Stg2/3 sprung kevlar disc (for pressure plate and flywheel life) with an OE fly would be awesome for you...

[Ba82Ep3]

... set your hp projection now and get a clutch that can go beyond that tq rating. which is how we usually end up with a 6 puck lol.

+2

[Ba82Ep3]

Sprung hub for DD ability... cerametallic for grip, kevlar for fly/pressure plate life... it really depends. I prefer a heavier flywheel as well... even with my ITR trans i think the weight of an EP flywheel would work... but as soon as i try a 5th to 3rd downshift/revmatch/WOT dump, i would curse the added weight.

[iDom]

I was thinking about just getting the Stage 2 Clutch for the EP3 flywheel and getting it resurfaced to save some money, but who knows how bad my Flywheel really is.. I'd hate to just buy the clutch/pressure plate and need to buy a Flywheel and end up spending $650+ for the damn thing when I could have just bought the clutch/flywheel combo for less

I went to Honda today and bought the RBC for $170 brand new, and i'm buying the Karcepts for $60, so I spent $230 compared to the $300 from clubrsx.com so I saved $70 right there.. With the extra money I saved, I bought:

3 quarts of Honda transmission fluid
a Honda oil filter
a new EP3 belt
a new EP3 throttle body gasket
a new 06+ Si throttle body gasket
a new 06+ Si intake manifold gasket
a new TSX exhaust manifold gasket
a new CRV side mount
all new exhaust and intake manifold bolts/nuts (it was like 8 bucks for all these, figured it couldn't hurt)

The EP3 belt was like 40 bucks, but I have 170k on my car, it looks a bit dry and weathered.. I figured what the hell, might as well replace that too..

So, I guess all I need now is the TSX motor. Assuming that it will come with the injectors of course. Everything else I can take off the a3 right?

[tinman5]

I ended replacing the ACT stage 2 kit that came with my Type S swap with a Competition Clutch stage one kit.
With the ACT, the pedal was so insanely hard. It took me a few days to get used to it, and once I did, it was very driveable. Just friggin tiring stomping on the pedal, and I drive a Peterbilt at work.
The CC on the other hand, nicely weighted clutch pedal. Firmer than stock, but not leg press hard. The only issue i am having is I also replaced the flywheel with an ACT prolite. This combined with a multi puck disc (7 I think it was) results in a little shudder or to much throttle during take off. Rookie style on occasion. Other than that it has held up to the bolt ons and clean up tune for 93 octane. I feel the clutch should still give good service life through the next set of upgrades namely cams and intake mani with a proper tune on a dyno. When the time comes, i will not hesitate to go to a CC stage 2. I was very pleased with the customer service and the kit itself.

[iDom]

Been shopping around A LOT lately for everything.. I keep finding better and better deals on everything. I'm so glad I have been looking around for this stuff for about 2 years now haha..

Found a vendor/group buy sale on k20a.org for Competition Clutches, the same one I wanted (Stage 2 CC with Light Flywheel) on clubrsx.com I found for $580 is on k20a.org from a vendor for $465 shipped!

I was going to buy a used Type-S or Type-R flywheel and get it resurfaced, but after shipping and labor, I was probably going to spend $200 for it, so I just decided I'll go with the vendor deal.

[lemonhead228]

So if I go with an type s act prolight flywheel, I have to get the type s clutch and keep the ep3 pressure plate?

I seen it somewhere on the forum before but can seem to find it

[mitchlikesbikes]

So if I go with an type s act prolight flywheel, I have to get the type s clutch and keep the ep3 pressure plate?

I seen it somewhere on the forum before but can seem to find it

i believe as long as you have the type-s fly you use the whole type s assembly. not 100% though

[iDom]

So if I go with an type s act prolight flywheel, I have to get the type s clutch and keep the ep3 pressure plate?

I seen it somewhere on the forum before but can seem to find it

EP3 Flywheel -> EP3 Clutch/Pressure Plate
A2 Flywheel -> A2 Clutch/Pressure Plate

All clutches are flywheel specific.. According to everything I've ever read, IIRC.

Also, all clutches come as a clutch/pressure plate combos. Besides the OEM replacement discs that some companies sell.

[Reaper27]

Ok so a little off topic but this is the first time that I've read about the weight of the flywheel messing with the A/C. I need to swap out my clutch and was just going to upgrade the whole thing and was looking at getting an 8 lbs fly, would that screw with my A/C? And why does it affect it?

[iDom]

Ok so a little off topic but this is the first time that I've read about the weight of the flywheel messing with the A/C. I need to swap out my clutch and was just going to upgrade the whole thing and was looking at getting an 8 lbs fly, would that screw with my A/C? And why does it affect it?

What's easier to stop? Something that weighs 2,000 pounds, or something that weighs 1,000 pounds? The same principles can be applied. It's less mass, so it will spin quicker, but can be stopped easier/faster (i.e., when the A/C compressor kicks on and puts extra resistance on the crank pulley/pulley system)

It will effect it, but I don't know if it will kill your car. I would go with the 11 lb one.. Just cause the difference will be so small that you won't even notice.

I don't think that it will "kill" the motor, but I know of reading posts from some people who DID have the issue. You could always raise your idle, or just get the 11.5 pound one.