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  1. #1
    K24 DOOOD iDom's Avatar
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    k24 swap finishing touches.. Got some questions.

    #1

    Ok, got the engine in, primed the motor and it started right up. BUT.. My engine only came with the coolant port coming directly from the water pump on the passenger side that's supposed to go to the oil cooler housing/assembly (that my engine doesn't have, nor did my stock k20a3 have it) and also, the line that goes back in to the block is plugged already.

    In this picture, I have the port that is circled in red. I DON'T have any of the components in green and from what I understand, I don't necessarily "need" them either. Would it be okay to just get a hose and put a bolt in the hose and hose clamp it shut?



    Also, in the back, part "G" just has a bolt/set screw in there and is plugged off.. Just like my k20a3 was.



    #2

    The plugs and connectors all connected to that strip that comes over the transmission that has all the throttle body plugs and the camshaft plugs and what not is very very tight, what did you guys do to free that up and give the connectors some slack?

  2. #2
    Registered User USAF EP3's Avatar
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    Call me, I have an extra oil cooler assembly (the circled green portion). Order the hose from Honda it's like $4 I think or less. PM me and I'll give you my phone #.

    Cut the harness insulation to free up the wires, kinda like when you do the DEPO projector headlights to make the parking light socket reach. When you free the wires up, retape them with electrical tape or some other form of insulation (I use F4 tape also called "rescue tape", buy it at aircraftspruce.com).
    Last edited by USAF EP3; 05-30-2012 at 08:23 PM.

  3. #3
    K24 DOOOD iDom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by USAF EP3 View Post
    Call me, I have an extra oil cooler assembly (the green portion). Order the hose from Honda it's like $4 I think or less. PM me and I'll give you my phone #.
    I will PM you. Thanks a mill. But, for the time being, I can just plug it off, right?

  4. #4
    Registered User USAF EP3's Avatar
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    I don't want to say yes because I've never ran into that issue. As you can see the coolant runs back to the block on that passage above the oil cooler so I'm not sure if it needs to run there or not.

  5. #5
    K24 DOOOD iDom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by USAF EP3 View Post
    I don't want to say yes because I've never ran into that issue. As you can see the coolant runs back to the block on that passage above the oil cooler so I'm not sure if it needs to run there or not.
    I think it just re-routes back in to the system and is more of a "beneficial" thing rather than a "necessary" thing. I have a ton of bills coming up, and I'm just trying to get it running for now. Which it does, I just have to address that issue and then in a few weeks and after things stop being so hectic, I will start to clean up the swap and add the oil cooler.

    I'm just going to plug it off and make sure there aren't any air bubbles or coolant leaks and take her for her first voyage tomorrow after work.

    Does anybody have any recommendations on the plugs and connectors issue I mentioned?

  6. #6
    Registered User differentK's Avatar
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    you should of just used your k20a3 water pump- then you wouldnt need to worry about the k20a2 oil cooler. its a nice piece to have though so picking up the extra parts and making use of it wouldnt be a bad thing. with the harness wiring- just cut back the protective covering until you have enough slack. i pretty much cut off all of the covering at this point and just re-wrapped it all with electrical tape. zip tie it all in place when your done- just be careful when your doing it as to not nick or cut any of the wires (duh)

  7. #7
    K24 DOOOD iDom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by differentK View Post
    you should of just used your k20a3 water pump- then you wouldnt need to worry about the k20a2 oil cooler. its a nice piece to have though so picking up the extra parts and making use of it wouldnt be a bad thing. with the harness wiring- just cut back the protective covering until you have enough slack. i pretty much cut off all of the covering at this point and just re-wrapped it all with electrical tape. zip tie it all in place when your done- just be careful when your doing it as to not nick or cut any of the wires (duh)
    I am getting all the parts in a few weeks to address the issue. But, for the time being, I am going to just plug the coolant port. Also, the k24 water pump was brand new and already installed with new seals and everything so, I wasn't going to turn that down.

    This weekend I am going to clean up the plugs/sensors and vacuum lines and make it look not so hectic in there. Will post of pictures later.

  8. #8
    Registered User cyllarus's Avatar
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    hey dom just answered your engine whine question.. see you are running into all the same things i did ;)

    do the oil cooler.. its very easy and a good longevity piece to have.

    on the wiring harness: I removed the plastic harness "shroud" and sliced all the electrical tape off that section of the harness. I pulled the wires for the speed sensor, reverse switch and the 2 cam sensors out from the "bunch" so they had more slack. then put a new loom on the harness and electrical taped it all back together. Had to do a similar thing up on the front of the motor for the knock and IACV plugs..

  9. #9
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    Will air bubbles make hoses pop off if ran?

  10. #10
    k24 ep3 bchaney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DARKKNIGHTHATCH View Post
    Will air bubbles make hoses pop off if ran?
    Probably not but they will make your engine overheat.

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