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  1. #1
    ephatch member Popeye's Avatar
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    ...Another brake thread...

    Ok, so there has been some discussion lately on brake pads, (OEM vs "x" brand, etc.) What I want to know is this...people talk about how well this pad "bites," or how bad that pad "bites." But, people ALSO say that a better, more expensive pad, doesn't stop you any quicker. If that is true, why would someone spend $100 on a set of pads to not stop any quicker? (This is mainly geared towards people that just use them for their DD's.) If the expensive pads don't stop you any quicker, but give you more "bite," then why get them if you're not going to autox or anything? Sure, I like to go into the mountains and have fun every now and then. But would an expensive set of pads really help me that much?
    I don't want to get into ss lines, better brake fluids, etc. When I change my brakes, I will be turning my oem rotors, or buying new ones, and adding new lines and better fluid. The fluid is one thing that I have found that is my biggest problem when driving in the mountains. By the time I get to the bottom of the mountain, I about gag on the smell. lol

  2. #2
    Criminal Panda bluedemonep3's Avatar
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    i always wondered the same thing, this is only a guess, but i am guessing the more expensive ones are better quality, reduce noise, maintain a cooler temp, and look nice lol, thats just a guess though. I just go with AutoZone pads, I dont AutoX or anything intense.

  3. #3
    Registered User ITBK20a3's Avatar
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    I feel pads are made in the same way to a degree, I mean yeah ceramic, semi metal ect all obviously have different materials per brands and such, but I think the main stopping power in brakes should be based on the calipers, and the SS brake lines. One piston vs three for example. That one piston won't stop as fast as the three bc there is more surface on the backing plate where the pressure is applied to. Now I'm not saying any $$$$ vs any $ pads is better or anything. It's just my personal logic that the pressure applied stops sooner. More pistons with SS lines without bulging give means better stopping power.

  4. #4
    ephatch member Popeye's Avatar
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    I definately aggree.
    I just don't see why, if the expensive pads don't stop a car any shorter, someone would pay so much for them. Do they fade easier or something? I thought brake fade was just with the fluid.

  5. #5
    Mean Old Bastard Lucid Moments's Avatar
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    There are other characteristics of a brake pad than its ability to stop a car once. Almost any pad can do that. Some pads have a more aggressive compound so that it requires less brake pedal force to get the same stopping force. That typically makes it easier to modulate your brakes. Some pads can handle higher temperatures. Some pads have less noise. Some pads have less dust. It all just depends on what you want out of your car.

    Now for a daily driver street car I tend to agree with the OP that OEM pads or some reasonable substitute is probably best. However some people do drive their cars aggressively even on the street. Particularly if you live in a mountainous area.

    There are two types of brake fade. Fluid fade, and pad fade. With fluid fade what happens is that your brake fluid boils and your brake pedal starts to feel soft, or mushy. With pad fade what happens if that you go beyond the temperature range of the brake pads and a layer of gas builds up between the pad and the rotor. When that happens you can have a good pedal feel, but no matter how hard you press the pedal you don't slow down much if at all.

  6. #6
    ephatch member Popeye's Avatar
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    Word!
    That makes sense. So if I like to go fast in the mounatains every now and then, something like EBC Red Stuff, or similar, would be best?

  7. #7
    Mean Old Bastard Lucid Moments's Avatar
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    I've heard good things about EBC, but never used them myself. I am partial to Hawk, and for what you would be doing it would be the HPS from them. I have also used Carbotech as well and was not unpleased with them. There are several others that are just as good though.

  8. #8
    ephatch member Popeye's Avatar
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    It seems like the EBC's and the Hawks run about neck and neck for the people that use them. I have heard that a LOT of people complain about the Hawks dust-making abilities...lol

  9. #9
    Registered User MIGEEZY's Avatar
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    Just go to autozone and get duralast golds and call it a day.

  10. #10
    ephatch member Popeye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIGEEZY View Post
    Just go to autozone and get duralast golds and call it a day.
    That's what I was going to do. But, I wanted to know a little more about stuff like this, first. About 95% of the time, I just drive my car to and from school. Just the normal stuff. But, like I said, I live in the mountains. I like to go up a little further every now and then and drive "spirited." With about 15 minutes of hard driving down a mountain, my brake fluid likes to boil. Sure, I could just upgrade the fluid, but why not do more while I'm in there? If I upgrade the fluid, I don't want there to be an issue of the pads being the problem.

  11. #11
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    after you "fade the fluid", does the brake pedal continue to feel like a sponge after the brake system has cooled? If not, then you are not dealing with fluid fade.

    otherwise, your primary concern regarding brake pads should not necessarily be cost (cost doesn't tell you anything about the pads). What is more useful is finding the pads temperature rating and where it is expected to fade. Example, normal OEM organic pads fade at around 200-300 deg F. Pretty low in the grand scheme of things, a few hard stops in quick succession and you've pretty much reached their limit.

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