Reply With QuoteBest bet is to remove the front bumper, front radiator support and radiator, will give alot more room to get up under there. You do NOT want to leave that bolt undone .
Being a bit dramatic with the title, but it certainly seems like it's not going to get installed.
I tried previously only to get fed up and took the whole mess off. I did the rest in pieces last week, ran boost line, soldered in powercard, so all that was left was the JRSC install in the engine bay.
Started last night got the manifold removed, JRSC bolted up, except the lower middle bolt. The first bolt was a pain in the arse to begin with, starting it with needle nose pliars till you could fit a wrench on it, the rest were easy(ish) and required godlike patience, till the bottom middle bolt. I've already dropped the bolt and it's under the charger somewhere, I can't fit my hand under, can't see and I fear I'll have to take the JRSC off now to get the bolt, only to have the situation repeat itself.
There's no way to get a wrench/socket on the bottom middle one from what I can see, I've got a good selection of universal wobble sockets, extensions and cheaters, but nothing will fit, and if it did, I still need room to turn the bolt and there isn't any.
I'm pleading here now, cause I know there are a few of you around who have this JRSC on your EP, did you just omit the middle bottom bolt and do up the rest? It's a half arse way and it doesn't jive quite right in my gut to do something like that, nothing on the car is hacked and this would be the first.
I've got today/tomorrow to either get it sorted or it's coming off and going up for sale, it's gonna stink but I've gotta get moving on, winter's around the corner and I've got wood to split/cut.
Thanks for reading!
Best bet is to remove the front bumper, front radiator support and radiator, will give alot more room to get up under there. You do NOT want to leave that bolt undone .
Bingo, after much fussing/fighting I managed to get every bolt adequately tightened on the car.Originally Posted by 03Si757
Only issue I've noticed now after installation is when I step on the gas, I can hear a squeak come from the intake then it goes away. Bad description I realize.
I opened the throttle body manually with the engine running standing over it and you can hear a squeak/high pitched almost like a whistling sound but it goes away instantly and does not linger.
Double checked all connections, everything's tight. Car idles normal. Is that just charger noise and I'm not used to it? The whining after WOT I realize is normal and I expected that, this has me scratching my head a bit.
Also, no real way to know if belt is adequately tightened or not, does anyone have any pointers on that? JR recommends 45 ft/lbs but is that on the long 10mm screw on the top of the tensioner or belt tension? I've also tightened up the bolt on the side of the tensioner once adequate tension was applied, is that correct?
Which kit do you have? Best way to get the center bolt on is to tighten that first a little bit then use a wrench. I use the auto tensioner relocator. I'm not dealing with the manual tensioner.
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Ur correct on the godlike patience bit for that lower middle bolt i used a Ratcheting wrench, i fit it in there and used the lower angle ones(not much back turn to tighten up)
hope you loctited all those manifold bolts... they tend to walk loose. i pulled my front bumper and radiator- gave me a ton more room to get to all the bolts. the squeak could just be the belt/ pulley/ or internal charger noise... its normal. did you install a boost gauge along with the charger? thats your best bet for watching for belt slip. i would recommend you modify your stock auto tensioner- it will save you some future headaches.
He has a manual tensioner not a auto tensioner. I have my auto tensioner, what do you mean modify? What exactly are you doing to it? I also use graphite grease on my bolts instead of lock title. They may never come out lol. it's a trick old school guys do sometimes.
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I've got the OEM tensioner and a spare, I've seen the posts and what to grind down to make the auto tensioner fit, but for my street pulley there's no listing as to what belt should be used. I could grab some string at some point and measure then head to a shop that's patient enough to let me see what belt would work. Right now I'm just happy the rig is up on the car.
I did not use loctite on the bolts, I just used graphite grease. Something I've been doing for years and years. I planned on checking up on the bolts after a few trips to re-snug and check for looseness. Thank you for the heads up, hopefully some other poor soul attempting to do this install will see your reccomendation on loctite and take heed, and be sure to use BLUE loctite, not red if you do.
So far so good, it's all installed and running fine now.
Bro u need to search the belt size is right when u first enter this
Section I would recommend the gatorback belt over the dayco
The torque rating is definitely not on the 10mm bolt. The torque spec is on the belt. You really need a special belt tension tool to get that. I would suggest to pinch the belt by the tensioner with your fingers for now. They should squeeze together about a centimeter each side max. Anything more and it's too lose. My adjustment bolt is 3/4 of the way down but that's not the same for all.
Looks like you got the rest figured out. Middle bottom bolt is the worst. You can tighten only 1/6 turn at a time with that. A magnetic telescoping tool helps with the dropped bolt.
Search for the goodyear gatorback belt part number and buy that belt.
Also monitor the setup for 1. a burning rubber smell at WOT (misaligned pulley), 2. The engine cutting out at WOT (lean protection settings off - k pro issue), and 3. the sounds of a major vacuum leak ( sc intake on backwards)
that bolt sucked for me too but with the rad/support gone it was pretty damn easy, and do yourself a favor and get rid of the manual tensioner, i have a friend who will sell you a mint unmodified auto tensioner
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