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  1. #91
    Registered User differentK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by larryo108 View Post
    One last question for you K. The package came with 8 (I think) black metal washers. What are these for? I didn't see them in the instructions.
    no clue honestly- i didnt notice them in my kit.

  2. #92
    that guy w/ the face poeticfinesse21's Avatar
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    I might be wrong but the washers might be in case you were installing the kit on a EM2/ES1. They have smaller crash bolts (EP3/DC5 crash bolts are 16mm, EM2/ES1 bolts are 14mm).

  3. #93
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    Does this same kit work on all three cars? I am sorry I do not know Honda chassis codes, so I have no idea what an EM2/ES1 is. Never bothered to learn any code but EP3.

  4. #94
    Registered User differentK's Avatar
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    the coils should be stamped 02-05 civic si- they are made specifically for our chassis. if those washers are for the crash bolts then they would only be needed on an 02 ep3- that year had the smaller crash bolts like the em2 (other 7th gen civics)

  5. #95
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    Mine is an 03 and from what I recall the coils are stamped 03-05 Si.

  6. #96
    Registered User differentK's Avatar
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    you should be good then- i dont think you will need any shims or spacers. i would call BC though just be sure.

  7. #97
    that guy w/ the face poeticfinesse21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by differentK View Post
    the coils should be stamped 02-05 civic si- they are made specifically for our chassis. if those washers are for the crash bolts then they would only be needed on an 02 ep3- that year had the smaller crash bolts like the em2 (other 7th gen civics)
    Only some of the first 02 EP3's came with the 14mm bolts.....stupid honda
    My EP is an 02 and my bolts were 16mm.

  8. #98
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    Well they are in. Finally. Got them finished tonight. When I first put them in, the front was riding way high. Took it for a run to let everything settle and get in shape (I know it will take more than one quick beer run to completely settle. When I started, My fender to approximate center of wheel was 12.25" front and 11.5" rear. I am not sitting at about 13.33" front and 13.5" rear. So probably a little more rake than necessary. I think I may leave it as is for now. Get the new wheels and tires and alignment done tomorrow. Then take my trip to Miami in a car that is riding much nicer. After I put on 2000-3000 miles once the trip is all said and done, I will adjust the height and get it realigned.

    The good news is that on my first trip out of the driveway when I was front high (about 14.5" front measurment) before I lowered it 1.25" I had no driveway scrapeage. Not even exhaust. I was wicked stoked about that. I will see if that holds true, once I lowered the front when I got back.

    I will certainly be posting a review of sorts after my trip, but I was just bathing in the ability to drive the car without bottoming out on the gravel in the road. SO awesiome. Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions. Super stoked at the moment.

  9. #99
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    Sorry for the bad pictures. Got the suspension installed last night. Got the wheels and tires installed today. Not at all happy with the alignment. Couldn't get the camber I wanted without completely fucking the toe. So I still have to pucker my asshole when I hit bumps waiting for the tire rub. Super bummed about that. We will see how the trip goes.

    Oh and I feel like I am four-wheeling compared to how low the car was before. Still trying to get used to that look and feel.




    So now I have a question. How are you guys running all of this negative camber without totally screwing the toe? The guy at the tire shop made it sound like either or. I have the steering bracket relocator from ClubRSX and the coils have camber plates in the front. I thought that would be enough to get the camber I wanted (-1.5) with zero toe. In the rear, I have Ingalls camber arms. I thought that would allow me to get the camber I wanted (-1.0) with zero toe. What more do I need to do?

  10. #100
    Registered User differentK's Avatar
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    So now I have a question. How are you guys running all of this negative camber without totally screwing the toe? The guy at the tire shop made it sound like either or. I have the steering bracket relocator from ClubRSX and the coils have camber plates in the front. I thought that would be enough to get the camber I wanted (-1.5) with zero toe. In the rear, I have Ingalls camber arms. I thought that would allow me to get the camber I wanted (-1.0) with zero toe. What more do I need to do?[/QUOTE]

    -1.5 camber in the front is tough- you either need to start pullin splash/ fender shields or you need camber bolts and plates. i have camber bolts and camber plates in the front and i could still only get about -.8 to -1.0 camber in the front. for the rear- maybe rolling the fenders will help. i think mine is around -1.2 to -1.5 in the back without touching the fenders and i am pretty damn close to rubbing with the ingalls camber arms. i wouldnt go too nuts about setting up the alignment perfectly though- unless its a straight track car a super aggressive alignment is kind of pointless. negative camber in the front- a bit less in the back- zero out your toe the best you can- then adjust the dampening front to rear and go drive it

  11. #101
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    Here is a better day time pic of the car.



    I don't think I have the time to get it realigned today. My current alignment is My actual camber numbers is LF = 0.0*, RF = -0.6*, LR = -0.6*, RR = -1.1*. My toe numbers are LF = .05*, RF = .08*, LR = .1*, RR = .06*.

    I am thinking I am going to put the fat 5's back on the car to drive to Miami and have a nice ride with no rubbing. I will figure out this wheel and tire combo when I get back . I think that is my only option at this point unfortunately. Will the Spec-D lugs work with stock wheels?

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