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  1. #31
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    As long as you are running normal wattage bulbs, you wouldn't run into any issues. 55w low beams and 60w highs. I'm running 35w HIDs and 60w high beam halogens. As for the ground, any screw or bolt that is connected to the frame should work well. I ran a jumper wire from inside the connector on the depo wiring harness (where the yellow wire is) to a screw on the frame. There are other grounds in that area. Do the same for both sides. It won't overload the circuit. Let me know if you need more explanation.

  2. #32
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    I already lost my Climate and AC control lights installing a stereo illumination dimmer. Trying to chase down the problem before altering anything else. Would that work with 55w HID and 60W high beam?

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChampionshipW View Post
    I already lost my Climate and AC control lights installing a stereo illumination dimmer. Trying to chase down the problem before altering anything else. Would that work with 55w HID and 60W high beam?
    You shouldn't have a problem running those wattages. HIDs obviously have a spike in wattage when they first fire up, but you won't have your high beams on when you turn your HIDs on. Using a variation of Ohm's law you can figure out what kind of amperage you are pulling based on the voltage and wattage of the bulbs. Watts/Volts=Amps. In your case, 55w+60w=115w. 115w/12volts=9.58Amps. This is well within the means of a 15amp circuit and fuse. And actual voltage fluctuates in a car. Your voltage is actually somewhere closer to 14volts when the car is running lowering your amperage even more. Hope that all makes sense. Good luck with your climate control.

  4. #34
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    So I tried building a custom harness similarly to the wiring in the diagram in the earlier post. However, I noticed that the 85 & 86 were reversed on the Lobeam relay. 86 is power in and 85 power out on the coil. The blue wire is a power wire and should go to 86.

    Now I pondered the situation of how i could easily improve the diagram. The short answer, ground the yellow wire to the low beam. The only problem is if you are running bulbs that are rated higher than factory, then this will cause a short. The factory wiring is 18 awg which is rated 7-10 amps. With the stock bulbs you will be running 9.4A. This is not taken into consideration a spike in the current under load. ( best to measure at the bulb with a multimeter) Secondly, there isn't anything protecting the bulb from shorting if there is a surge from ground. (Say lightning)

    Therefore, the cheapest method to improvise the circuit is to use a diode connecting low ground to high ground after the bulb ( direction to High) However, you must use a diode that is rated for the amperage. (radio shack aint gonna cut it) Unfortunately, now the diode is a point of failure in the circuit.

    So how do you fix the problem? Well, I found a solution which i will explain in a tutorial posted on youtube. The link will be provided below.

  5. #35
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    I haven't figured a way to incorporate day running lights because I don't need them. Video's converting..

  6. #36
    Don't think too hard 2004ep3hatch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChampionshipW View Post
    So I tried building a custom harness similarly to the wiring in the diagram in the earlier post. However, I noticed that the 85 & 86 were reversed on the Lobeam relay. 86 is power in and 85 power out on the coil. The blue wire is a power wire and should go to 86.

    Now I pondered the situation of how i could easily improve the diagram. The short answer, ground the yellow wire to the low beam. The only problem is if you are running bulbs that are rated higher than factory, then this will cause a short. The factory wiring is 18 awg which is rated 7-10 amps. With the stock bulbs you will be running 9.4A. This is not taken into consideration a spike in the current under load. ( best to measure at the bulb with a multimeter) Secondly, there isn't anything protecting the bulb from shorting if there is a surge from ground. (Say lightning)

    Therefore, the cheapest method to improvise the circuit is to use a diode connecting low ground to high ground after the bulb ( direction to High) However, you must use a diode that is rated for the amperage. (radio shack aint gonna cut it) Unfortunately, now the diode is a point of failure in the circuit.

    So how do you fix the problem? Well, I found a solution which i will explain in a tutorial posted on youtube. The link will be provided below.
    Id like to see this link as well. You are saying that just grounding the low beam wire to the chassis is actually not good enough? I know a few guys have done this for years with no problems.
    Supercharged K24 Frank powered
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