Which k24 to go with?

[Powers]

Ok so the other day my a3 started acting funny smells a bit like oil is burning (no blue smoke out of the tailpipe but just smells like it). And theres a weird whistling noise going on with a check engine light and no codes are found when its read....Long story short I think it may be time for a swap. I already have kpro too.

Im ordering avid mounts and a type s flywheel and clutch in a week to get started. I know Im going to need the karcepts adapter and crv mount as well.

But heres the thing I cant figure out.....a1 or a2?!?! I want to break the 210whp mark with this swap. I have a set of k20a2 cams here so I could do a killer vtec a1...but by the end of that it would probably end up costing as much as the a2. I just cant decide Im hope to here the advice and opinions of the old and wise ephatchers Thanks guys.

Oh and this is my DD.

[urthworm]

k24a2 all day long. Cant beat the factory reliability.

[Deadphishy]

a2 for sure.

[EUB44]

A2 anytime.

[Ba82Ep3]

a1 has the better flowing head, less compression...

a2 has more compression, the head is inferior IMO, and the VTC has to be swapped to get the potential out of the engine.

If youre looking for something to drop in and go... the a2 is your choice. Either way you will need to make changes to get the full potential out of either engine.

For the cost of the a2, you can make a damn good a1... but you gotta wrench n tune.

[Powers]

The VTC on the a2 would have t be switched to a 50 degree one correct? And what kind of numbers would I be looking with that and full bolt ons vs. a full bolt on a1?

[urthworm]

from what ive read the a2 vtc can go to 45degrees. so u will need a mechanical stop on the gear. I cant say for sure what numbers u will hit because all dynos differ. but ive seen alot of eg, ek swaps with a2 n full bolt ons hit the 220mark at around 180ish trq.

[Ba82Ep3]

a2 VTC needs to be modified in order to advance that far. Its MAX is 25 degrees.

A bolt on k24a1 will average 190whp/180wtq and a k24a2 will average 200whp/180wtq. The stock 25 degree VTC holds the k24a2 back.

If you take the time to assemble your own engine this is what you can get...

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95689

Notice that power was at 7500rpm. This means you can use a k24a1 bottom end with k24a2 pistons and rings and achieve the same results with reliability... as k24a1's can spin to 7500rpm with no issues. The k24a1 bottom end is less expensive, and gives you the better head... swap pistons, add cams and youre good to go.

[Ba82Ep3]

I wanna say that there are some builds that benefit from a ported k24a2 head versus a ported k20a2/z1 head. So, im not discounting the k24a2 head, but in stock unported configuration, the k24a2 head is worse than the k24a1 head. The only advantage with the k24a2 head is the ease to run a standard VTEC configuration.

[Powers]

Ba I like the looks and sound of that setup. I may granny the ep for a little longer to get that going aha 246hp and 191ftlbs is pretty nut for oem parts.

[differentK]

i made 226/ 193 with a 04 k24a2. only added the 50deg VTC and a type s oil pump. used my stock PRB intake manifold and throttle body, a RSX CAI and PLM raceheader with a 2.5in exhaust. setup was simple and pretty much all bolt on... the perfect DD for me

[urthworm]

sorry ment to say you will have to source an k20a2 vtc gear then put a mechanical stop to limit it to 45degrees and ditch the vtc gear that the k24a2 comes with.

[differentK]

mine is the full 50 deg- no issues here. 45 deg is recommended but not necessary.

[Blah1219]

Find a k20a flywheel. 10- 11lbs and OEM built. K20a and k20a2 same bolt pattern.

[usedep3]

no need to buy the 50* VTC if you're swapping out the k20a3. the k20a3 will have the 50*VTC that you'll need/want. I wish I hadn't given my motor away.